[dataway]

Kind of a pain to align the bumper. Ended up screwing two big eyelets in the floor joists overhead and supporting it with straps ... that made things much easier. Got the frame mounts tightened first for up/down alignment, then slid it side to side to get it right.

Took every single bit of the frame mount slots to get it up to the right height and back far enough ... is that typical? Why such large slots ... so things can be serviced without removing the whole thing?

Any tips or tricks I should know? Gaps will be consistent .. but driver quality .. unless the fender can be moved around .... don't have the doors on yet so the fenders are going to have to come back off anyway .. just want to make sure I'm not way off base at the current stage.

Still have to finish the body work on the fenders.

[4zpeed]

Tip #1, don't get in a rush, it may, 'strike that', it will take you several trips around the car, all time well spent, the fruits of your labor.

Front clip alignment should start at the doors, get a flush consistent line at the quarters and rockers then work forward from there.

Also best to have the engine in place with the car setting level and on its tires, this is especially true for the bumper alignment.

The slots sound typical, just make sure there is a chip free paint gap between the bumper and fenders upon the final placement.

When the car is put on a lift you'll notice that gap will grow, the opposite is true when the weight is shifted back to the tires.



Frank

[dataway]

Engine is in, AC components, interior, down on the tires. I've still got the suspension and body mounts in a "loose" condition waiting till everything is aligned properly.

I've got some paint work to do on the doors ... basically the whole operation is waiting on that to be completed so I can mount them before moving forward.

At present it's looking very acceptable ... but that could all change when doors go on if the fenders don't play nice.

I have a quick lift and I have noticed the flex in the frame on lifting after the engine was installed.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Yea, Bumper Frame bar Slots at end-of-range is typical on all of my 68 A-body efforts.

My 68 GTO Endura fit benefitted from Bowing the Bumper (to reduce width!) bypry-bar pryiing underhood at the top mounts while tightening the top bolts. This helps to get the Endura sides to match the Fenders curves. Helps match the Hood leading edge too.

[dataway]

HIS ... I can almost picture it ... wondering where to put the pry bar ... do you mean you are prying the nose UP, or FORWARD?

[rasilverbird]

I cut holes in the bumper brackets that attach to the frame so that I could install the bolts in the frame with the valance on. Without the holes you have to remove the valance to install two of the four bolts. Keeping the valance in place keeps the fenders aligned, and that makes it easier to align the bumper. And that way I am only holding up the bumper itself and not the heavy brackets. It's worked well for my test fitment (on and off a hundred times).

[Half-Inch Stud]

Originally Posted by dataway

HIS ... I can almost picture it ... wondering where to put the pry bar ... do you mean you are prying the nose UP, or FORWARD?

Oh yea; prying the Endura upper metal to slide the slot relative to the bumper Bracket. Tighten the upper bolts to retain the bowing. This causes the bumper to bow forward and also reduce width at the fenders. Sounds minor in text but is a big deal when you are doing it.

[dataway]

Oh ... OK I get it now. I can see how that would help in certain cases.

rasilverbird .... I'll have to look at that ... pretty sure there's going to be a lot of adjustment at my house too