[68azbird]

I would suggest putting two play putty balls on the "elbow"
you should really use golf balls.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by AIR RAM

I’m starting to get all my parts pieced together. This is what I’ll be using for my induction system. This gets me a super low profile, I will add as much spacer as I can fit under the hood to ease transition and add volume.

I’m not exactly sure what throttle body I will be running however it will be either a dual or mono blade throttle body. Undecided on size as well... but the good news is there are lots of options for this plenum.

SPEED SAFE, NICK

What intake elbow is that? I've never seen that one, it's an Edlebrock? Have a part number? Looks like an early one for LT1 type throttle bodies? If you go to a single blade type, you will have to blend the divider, and smooth the edges to prevent reversion at that transition.

Luckily, they make oval tubing to make a intake air tube.

What body is this going in?


I took the passenger inner fender well out, and slowly started lowering the hood, and actually watched how close it was getting. You can put it on jack stands, and actually stick your head up there with the wheel off, and even measure. The engine to hood clearance doesn't really change when it's on jack stands, depending on the condition of your body/core bushings.


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[HWYSTR455]

There are a variety of these too:


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[HWYSTR455]

Those are called 'Air Foils', or 'LT1 intake air foils'.

The throttle bodies available for those type openings are limited, I don't think you can get any that are more than like 62mm ones, if you are running a larger displacement engine, you may run out of cfm.

What's the engine displacement and expected max RPM?

EDIT: Once the elbow starts getting too low, you may have to switch to a 'roots blower' type thermostat housing due to clearance issues.


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[AIR RAM]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

What intake elbow is that? I've never seen that one, it's an Edlebrock? Have a part number? Looks like an early one for LT1 type throttle bodies? If you go to a single blade type, you will have to blend the divider, and smooth the edges to prevent reversion at that transition.

Luckily, they make oval tubing to make a intake air tube.

What body is this going in?


I took the passenger inner fender well out, and slowly started lowering the hood, and actually watched how close it was getting. You can put it on jack stands, and actually stick your head up there with the wheel off, and even measure. The engine to hood clearance doesn't really change when it's on jack stands, depending on the condition of your body/core bushings.


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Sullivan Performance. They make 4.6L and 5.4L Ford intake manifolds.

http://sullivanperformance.com/throt...er-dual-blade/ - Dual blade

http://sullivanperformance.com/throt...-accufab-oval/ - Mono Blade

We modify their 4.6L Ford intake manifolds to fit Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep 4.7L engines with our intake adapter plates. We where looking into using their throttle body plenum however it was easier to modify an EDL low profile LS plenum and just weld a 4.7L throttle body plate to them... So the plenum you see in the pic has been sitting on my shelf for nearly 10 years.

Its a nice piece. I'm not so sure on what it will take to make the oval mono blade work with the Holley EFI Dominator ECU. If its as easy as plug and play, I will most likely get a large mouth Mono blade throttle body and run that plenum. I like the idea because its SUPER low profile... If I go with a round LS throttle body, it will take up over an additional 2.5 inches. The Sullivan plenum is only 3.5" tall from the intake manifold. This gives room to add spacers which would add volume and help direct air DOWN more evenly rather than concentrating pressure at the aft intake runners.

If I do use it, I would just remove the divider entirely... It would be a straight forward cut. Perhaps some touch up welding to close some of the hole... that area is used for the Idle air control circuit which mounts below the plenum out of sight.

Here are some examples of the throttles body I could run with that plenum.

https://accufabracing.com/mustang-co...-throttle-body - Cable
https://superchargersonline.com/prod...shelby-gt-500/ - Fly by Wire

SPEED SAFE, NICK

[HWYSTR455]

Very cool. That's thinking outside of the box. Those Accufab TBs flow good, the elbow would be the limiting factor in many cases. I've used some of those before, some of the 4150 mount 4bbls ones are very low, can squeeze those into tight places.

As for what the HP or dominator ECUs will work with, you can start here, the 'selection guide' :

https://documents.holley.com/efi_sel...chart62914.pdf

Here's the DBW TBs & pedals that work with the Dominator:

APPROVED GM THROTTLE BODIES:
GM Part # - 12570800
GM Part # - 12570790
GM Part # - 12580760
GM Part # - 12580195
GM Part # - 12605109
GM Part # - 12629992
GM THROTTLE PEDAL ASSEMBLIES:
GM Part # - 10379038
Lokar Part # - BDBW-GM02
APPROVED FORD THROTTLE BODIES:
Ford Part # - 7R3Z 9E926-AA (GT500)
Ford Part # - BR3E-9F911-AB (Coyote)
Ford Part # - BR3Z-9F836-D (Coyote)
FORD THROTTLE PEDAL ASSEMBLIES:
Ford Part # - BR3Z-9F836-C (Coyote)
Ford Part # - BR3Z-9F836-D (Coyote)
APPROVED CHRYLSER THROTTLE BODY (DBW):
Chrysler Part # - 04591847
CHRYSLER PEDAL ASSEMBLIES:
Chrysler Part # - 0486 1708 (558-417 Specific)
Chrysler Part # - 0486 1714 (558-418 Specific)

As for non-DBW TBs, basically boils down to the TPS, IAC, MAP, CTS, type, and you can mix & match. There are drop-down boxes to make selections. There is also a custom selection where you can enter parameters for each type of sensor, but some combos may be limited due to algorithms' complexity. But if you stick to say all Ford stuff, or all GM stuff, you would be in good shape, especially if you don't mix 'generations' or OE combos.

You can download the Holley EFI software and play with it, after you dig around, you can figure out what works and what doesn't. If you really wanted to, you can drill down to the ECU pinouts, and make your own harnesses (I did). That way you don't have a big bundle of wires that you only need 60% of.

I wouldn't bother cutting the one you have up, would just get the single mouth unit and sell the one you have. The single mouth one also looks like a better flow path, and there is a diagram showing height, not sure on the dual, there is no diagram.

You have seen the Edelbrock elbows right? It's lower, and is only .56" above the 4150 flange:

https://www.edelbrock.com/ultra-low-...ack-38473.html

The Sullivan single mouth is 3.5" above the 4150 mount flange in comparison. (again, not sure on the dual mouth, no specs)

You do also realize that with a DBW TB, there is no IAC. That saves space and cost. MAT sensor mounting also has some particulars, keep that in mind too.

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[AIR RAM]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Very cool. That's thinking outside of the box. Those Accufab TBs flow good, the elbow would be the limiting factor in many cases. I've used some of those before, some of the 4150 mount 4bbls ones are very low, can squeeze those into tight places.

As for what the HP or dominator ECUs will work with, you can start here, the 'selection guide' :

https://documents.holley.com/efi_sel...chart62914.pdf

Here's the DBW TBs & pedals that work with the Dominator:

APPROVED GM THROTTLE BODIES:
GM Part # - 12570800
GM Part # - 12570790
GM Part # - 12580760
GM Part # - 12580195
GM Part # - 12605109
GM Part # - 12629992
GM THROTTLE PEDAL ASSEMBLIES:
GM Part # - 10379038
Lokar Part # - BDBW-GM02
APPROVED FORD THROTTLE BODIES:
Ford Part # - 7R3Z 9E926-AA (GT500)
Ford Part # - BR3E-9F911-AB (Coyote)
Ford Part # - BR3Z-9F836-D (Coyote)
FORD THROTTLE PEDAL ASSEMBLIES:
Ford Part # - BR3Z-9F836-C (Coyote)
Ford Part # - BR3Z-9F836-D (Coyote)
APPROVED CHRYLSER THROTTLE BODY (DBW):
Chrysler Part # - 04591847
CHRYSLER PEDAL ASSEMBLIES:
Chrysler Part # - 0486 1708 (558-417 Specific)
Chrysler Part # - 0486 1714 (558-418 Specific)

As for non-DBW TBs, basically boils down to the TPS, IAC, MAP, CTS, type, and you can mix & match. There are drop-down boxes to make selections. There is also a custom selection where you can enter parameters for each type of sensor, but some combos may be limited due to algorithms' complexity. But if you stick to say all Ford stuff, or all GM stuff, you would be in good shape, especially if you don't mix 'generations' or OE combos.

You can download the Holley EFI software and play with it, after you dig around, you can figure out what works and what doesn't. If you really wanted to, you can drill down to the ECU pinouts, and make your own harnesses (I did). That way you don't have a big bundle of wires that you only need 60% of.

I wouldn't bother cutting the one you have up, would just get the single mouth unit and sell the one you have. The single mouth one also looks like a better flow path, and there is a diagram showing height, not sure on the dual, there is no diagram.

You have seen the Edelbrock elbows right? It's lower, and is only .56" above the 4150 flange:

https://www.edelbrock.com/ultra-low-...ack-38473.html

The Sullivan single mouth is 3.5" above the 4150 mount flange in comparison. (again, not sure on the dual mouth, no specs)

You do also realize that with a DBW TB, there is no IAC. That saves space and cost. MAT sensor mounting also has some particulars, keep that in mind too.

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That's some very helpful information... I will be using that throttle body list for sure, I honestly did not they published a chart. That makes things easier. I would really like to go with a fly by wire... It would aid in adding some form of traction control as well as Cruise control which would be a cool feature on long road trips.

I would have to call Steve at Sullivan to see if he is just cutting the center divider out of existing cast or if he is having them made separately. I am fairly sure he just has one plenum made (with the divider) and just removes it for those who dont need it. This would keep production cost down and make it easier to keep stocked up.

Thanks for the tips and information, it will most certainly come in useful.

SPEED SAFE, NICK