#21  
Old 08-02-2021, 08:26 AM
Don 79 TA Don 79 TA is offline
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I bought the bleeding kit (forgot the name) that can bleed out in either direction
worked great
just keep an eye out for reverse bleeding cause if it pops an air bubble, get ready to clean a mess all over the place. it blew the rag cover off the master and went all over
worked GREAT though
i also have the snap-on (bluepoint) one that hooks up to the air compressor, works great for sucking fluids out of the master
haven't used it to try a one person bleed (cars are still new so i just suck out the masters every once in a while)

maybe it was pheonix brake tool???

  #22  
Old 08-02-2021, 10:07 AM
78w72 78w72 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirrotica View Post
You're forgetting that the main reason people post about bleeding brakes is that they can't seem to get the air out of the system. Gravity bleeding does it more efficiently than other forms of bleeding, most times once is all that is required.

The vacuum method, and pressure bleeding, either with pedal movement, or with an air pushing fluid through the system many times don't work the first time, and are repeated over and over to purge the air. Gravity will purge air at the master cylinder as well as the bleeder because without pressure against the fluid column the air will travel upwards to the master cylinder, and you effect air letting at both ends of the fluid column instead of forcing all the air downward through the bleeder multiple times.

Pressure bleeding still ends up on the floor if you're not abundantly careful, and has the potential to squirt fluid all over the undercarriage, so the argument that gravity bleeding is going to remove paint, and is messy is a weak point.

Efficiency is why I prefer to use gravity bleeding, it works quickly and most time once is all that is required to completely purge the system. Even if someone isn't in a production setting, it's still the best choice of, one and done, and that is the main point, to get it done the first time correctly, and move on.

BTW, pumping the pedal to remove air is a great method to remove paint on a fender, inner fender, and firewall. I've seen more paint on left fenders ruined by using this method than I can count by trapped air forcing the fluid back through the system when the pedal is released during the bleeding process. It's much easier to touch up undercarriage paint than it is the paint on the top of the fender. All it takes is leaving the cover off the reservoir one time while bleeding to cause a ruined exterior paint job.........
i've never had a problem getting air out of the system doing it manually, either adding a new caliper, new lines or a whole new system with a new master & prop valve, manual works perfect & is clean as can be with a hose & jar with some fluid in it.

never had fluid on the floor or "squirt all over the undercarriage" with just a basic set up of a hose fit tightly on the bleeder & a box wrench to open & close it, worst case you put a piece of cardboard down in case you knock over the jar or the hose pops out but thats very rare if ever in my experience.

however i have watched friends do gravity bleeding & watched the fluid drain all over the caliper, spindle & lower control arm or the backing plates & axle tubes then drip onto the ground. worked great but i chuckled at how messy it was & realized i would never do that on a clean or restored car. that isnt an "argument" just stating why i prefer to do it manually & pointing out that unless you are "abundantly careful" gravity bleeding is messy & fluid can/will eat paint if/when it touches it.

BTW, the whole trapped air pushing fluid & eating paint on a fender & firewall thing makes no sense, who leaves the cap off the master when bleeding??? never heard of that one but i suppose it can happen... so the argument of trapped air eating paint on a fender/firewall is definitely a weak point.

bleeding brakes isnt rocket science, you can do this how you want & others can do it how they want, both ways work fine & doing it manually is also one & done & is usually much cleaner when its done right.

  #23  
Old 08-03-2021, 12:05 PM
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Peter Serio Peter Serio is offline
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I've used a helper, also tired a pressure system (one time)= big mess.

I have had the best luck in getting all the air out using Russell speed bleeders. Jegs on line sells them.

They come in all different thread sizes and the bonus is once you are done those stay on the car.

Most often older (original) bleeder screws are all rusted with the flats of the "nut" 1/2 way rounded off anyway.

You use a piece of vacuum hose on the end of the fitting. I make a catcher for the oil fluid out of a water bottle. You must begin with some fluid in the bottom of the bottle so the hose does not pull air. The bottom end of the hose needs to be below the fluid level in that bottle; to start.

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  #24  
Old 08-03-2021, 08:38 PM
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in the end it was just easier and better to get a buddy...imo

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  #25  
Old 08-06-2021, 03:41 PM
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has anyone ever seen a style of of one man bleeder that consisted simply of a hose with a fitting on the end that holds a ball bearing and a spring ?

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  #26  
Old 08-10-2021, 03:02 PM
74Grandville 74Grandville is offline
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When starting fresh with everything new, the master cylinder needs to be bench blead or you'll never get all the air out. I like to use to bent tubes that aim the fluid back into the reservoir instead of using the plugs. (much easier). from there install the entire system. then I start from the furthest point first. I use a 1 man bleeder. all it is, is a tube into a little bottle that has a magnet on it so it can be placed on the rotor/drum. I open the bleeder and pump the brake slowly around 5-10 times depending how much fluid is used up in the master. you need to put the lid on the mast before pumping or you'll make a mess. you also need to ensure you do not run the master dry or you may need to bench bleed the master again. Once you see fluid coming out of the clear tube you may see it gravity bleed. From there I wait until all the bubbles are gone or just keep pumping the brake and filling the master until there are no bubbles. Then move to the next furthest location and repeat.

It’s not a hard process, just takes time.

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  #27  
Old 09-20-2021, 11:27 AM
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67Fbird 67Fbird is offline
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FYI ...water neutralizes brake fluid. no harm done. You can pour brake fluid on your hood...and rinse it with water and ....nothing (you would want to re-wax it though)

  #28  
Old 09-22-2021, 10:08 AM
78w72 78w72 is offline
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no harm done? nothing?? brake fluid will blemish or harm paint within seconds on most automotive paints & clears... the time it takes to get a hose & rinse with water will leave some kind of blemish to the paint if not ruin it.

i will pass on experimenting with pouring brake fluid on my hood.

  #29  
Old 09-22-2021, 12:24 PM
autobahn autobahn is offline
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Default reverse bleeder

I too have a Wilwood M/C and 4 4 piston setup , I couldn't get a good bleed with gravity ,bleeding a helper got a hold of a reverse bleeder ,made a temporary cover for the m/c tapped in a 1/4" in the cover fashioned a clear tube into a "S" trap was able clear the air from the system and was able to see the air come out of the m/c this is worked for me.

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