[Dick Boneske]

We're beginning the restoration of my step-daughter's '68 Firebird. It has been parked since 1995, when it was used in her wedding and previous to that, she drove it to high school. It is a hardtop that we plan to paint Windward Blue with a Deluxe Parchment interior.

It will be an automatic car with a 428 that was shipped as a 390 HP engine in a '67 Grand Prix. We have the 670 heads, but plan to use E-heads or Kaufmann D port with factory HO cast iron exhaust. This will be a Restomod with stock outward appearance-not a drag strip car, just high performance street! We tore the engine down yesterday and were surprised to find the original factory standard bearings & pistons still in place. See the pictures. Fuel injection is almost a certainty. We plan to use a 2004r transmission with 4.11 the rear gears now in the car. .

I'd like some opinions on the following:

1. The camshaft retaining plate that bolts to the front of the block. I remember some discussion with Dan Whitmore about modifying this cover for better timing chain lube.

2. The oil gallery pipe plug that is located next to the distributor gear--some have suggested there be a .030" hole drilled to squirt oil onto the distributor/cam drive gears.

3. Car has factory air. What are the pros & cons of making it operational vs. Vintage Air?

4. Use the stock crank, rods with aftermarket pistons or go to Butler rotating assy. with Eagle Rods, cast crank?

[Scott65]

Looks like a very cool project! I use the drilled plug for distributor oiling in mine. It kept the BOP composite gear happy over many years. So I'd use it again for sure in roller cam service anyway.

[Matt Meaney]

1. what I remember is, to add a small hole to one of the oil galley plugs in the front of the engine for better timing chain lube. ( like you would for the dist. gear) the cam thrust plate mod was for the cam. this http://www.nitemareperformance.com/camplate_hp.html

2. yes, do it.

3. no idea.

4. stock crank with aftermarket rods and pistons.

[67gtospud]

Im just finishing my 428 up now. I ordered drilled galley plugs from Butler Performance. I tapped the front of my block for 3/8 pipe plugs instead of using the factory style press in plugs. One of the plugs I installed in the front is also drilled to help oil the timing gearset.

If its in the budget, I vote for Vintage air. Seems to me it would be a better way to go for a/c especially when not looking for factory correct.

As long as the crank checks out good I would reuse the 428 crank along with new 4340 forged rods and new pistons.

[Mike Davis]

Factory crank, Eagle Rods and Forged pistons.

[Navy Horn 16]

4.11s aren't a good street gear. I've got 3.42s with the same trans, and an engine pretty close to what you are going to build. Your torque numbers will make 1st gear useless, and OD not nearly as useful.

If you want something aggressive for the street, go with 3.73s.

[Scarebird]

Originally Posted by Dick Boneske

3. Car has factory air. What are the pros & cons of making it operational vs. Vintage Air?

If you thinking your dash is crowded now wait till you retrofit.
I would stick with the stock AC, R12 is a superior refrigerant and you have all the ducting GM designed to fit much quieter too.

[Dick Boneske]

Thanks for the tips so far. Your thinking is in line with mine. We'll see how my son-in-law feels.

[lust4speed]

I restored the original AC system in the 67 GTO cruiser. Spent a whole bunch of money and everything was new and used R12. It always kept us comfortable, but it did so on recirculate and high speed. Went with Vintage Air on the blue 67 and spent about half as much, and within a mile or two I'm turning down the fan speed and turning the temp dial up. While the original system was adequate, the VA will freeze you out.

Personally I feel that the .030" hole is as large as you want to go on the plug by the distributor, and I drill my own at .028". Had a customer order out a drilled plug from one of our Pontiac suppliers and it came in over .040". Definitely install threaded plugs in the front gallery holes, but I stopped using a drilled plug up front - there are several controlled leaks supplying a massive amount of oil through the cam retainer plate and just don't see any need to bleed off oil any more oil up front.

Tough call on the stroker kit. Cubes rule on the street, but I'd be inclined to stay with the 428 4" stroke. Have to set a limit on how much tire smoke you want to produce. Also for the same reason, I'd suggest a gear change to no more than 3.73's otherwise the 200-4R with a 4.11 low gear is going to be nothing but a granny gear smoke machine.

[Old Goat Racer]

Stock crank ! Good rods/pistons ! With E-heads you'll be needing some sticky tires.

Read this thread about Chinese cast cranks. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=837676

[hurryinhoosier62]

Dick, stock crank but make sure the crank grinder equalizes the stroke on each rod journal. A good radius job on both the rods and mains is also a good idea. Nitriding a nodular crank will help with its longevity. Rods? Molnar or Crower, which ever fits your budget. Pistons? Autotec or DSS. You want the pistons to be as light as possible. One advantage with Autotec pistons is you can adjust the pin height to minimize the amount of material to be machined off the decks, whether you plan to zero deck the block or simply “true” it.

[steve25]

Do as in post number 5 with the factory Crank.

Run the D port Edelbrock heads.

Do replace that 3/8" pipe rear oil galley plug with a Aluminum one drilled out with the .030" hole.

Carefully tap out the 2 front oil galley holes for pipe plugs also.

[Dick Boneske]

Thanks for the added tips! Where can I buy aluminum pipe plugs? Aren't those rear ones 1/4" NPT?

[steve25]

Yes, sorry 1/4" pipe in the rear.

The McMaster- Carr Catalog has them (# 3867T363 ) in the needed 1/4" Hex / Allen drive Aluminum for 4 bucks each.

You might find a cast iron pipe plug made for a Allen, but it's a long shot!
At a Marine supply house you will find Stainless Steel, but with either of these the way to go is to drill most of the way thru them with a big bit leaving the last .040" of wall thickness to drill out to the needed .030" hole.

Shinny back steel plugs are too hard to drill thru so don't bother!

[Mike Davis]

Originally Posted by Dick Boneske

Thanks for the added tips! Where can I buy aluminum pipe plugs? Aren't those rear ones 1/4" NPT?

Summit Racing carries them as well. They have natural and anodized. $2.75

[Gary H]

Originally Posted by steve25

Yes, sorry 1/4" pipe in the rear.

The McMaster- Carr Catalog has them (# 3867T363 ) in the needed 1/4" Hex / Allen drive Aluminum for 4 bucks each.

You might find a cast iron pipe plug made for a Allen, but it's a long shot!
At a Marine supply house you will find Stainless Steel, but with either of these the way to go is to drill most of the way thru them with a big bit leaving the last .040" of wall thickness to drill out to the needed .030" hole.

Shinny back steel plugs are too hard to drill thru so don't bother!

Hmmmm....I'm pretty sure they're 3/8" pipe. Could be wrong though

[67gtospud]

Originally Posted by Gary H

Hmmmm....I'm pretty sure they're 3/8" pipe. Could be wrong though

You are correct. They are 3/8.

[steve25]

I guess I was right the first time, but I should have know when I corrected myself that a 1/4" pipe plug would not be used on what is. 1/2" oil passage.

[Skip Fix]

I had bought a predrilled plug kit from Warrior. Had machine shop install it. When I pre oiled with teh valley cover off holy moley it was spraying oil hole was 0.060! Pulled out the rear freeze plug and peened it smaller.

[bradleyc309]

Dick,

what's the plans for the 670 heads, are they for sale/

V/r

Curtis