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  #21  
Old 06-07-2023, 02:48 PM
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I would change a lot of other stuff before I changed a whole damn intake. Spacer might cause some headaches with linkage and air cleaner clearance but those all seem easier to me than an intake swap.

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  #22  
Old 06-07-2023, 02:58 PM
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When I swapped intakes to accommodate the carb I was using the car was a ‘76 T/A and I didn’t want to affect the shaker scoop location, so in my case keeping a factory intake was the smartest decision.

You should already have the proper bathtub valley pan so swapping to a ‘73 -‘74 intake will do the trick without messing around with the little things that end up being a big PITA.

Finding one locally is the key, otherwise ridiculously expensive because of shipping.

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  #23  
Old 06-07-2023, 03:25 PM
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Maybe 2 of the thick gaskets and SOME grinding?

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  #24  
Old 06-07-2023, 04:18 PM
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Well, if those tubes are not hooked up - and you have no intention of hooking them up, you may need some penetrant, but they should be able to be wiggled out;
they are a tension fit inside the tube which goes into the exhaust cross over.

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  #25  
Old 06-07-2023, 04:46 PM
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Thanks everyone!
I’m going out right now with a roll of tinfoil to see how much hood clearance I have, and then see how high I’d have to go to raise the carb and or grind. If that doesn’t look doable I’ll be looking for an intake. I found NOTHING within 150 miles of me last night.

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71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi
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  #26  
Old 06-07-2023, 08:41 PM
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Plenty of hood to air cleaner clearance space. I put various sized spacers under the carb, and 1/2” is more than enough. to clear the intake manifold. I think I’m going to order a 1/2” phenolic spacer and see how it goes. Thanks everyone. If it doesn’t work out, trust me, I’ll be posting.

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71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi
13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs.

‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears.
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  #27  
Old 06-07-2023, 10:31 PM
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https://stores.unleashedcustommachin...uretor-spacer/

I always wanted to try one of these. Tapered spacer but for a Q Jet. I almost bought one. Before I put the Terminator on mine.

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  #28  
Old 06-09-2023, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67drake View Post
Plenty of hood to air cleaner clearance space. I put various sized spacers under the carb, and 1/2” is more than enough. to clear the intake manifold. I think I’m going to order a 1/2” phenolic spacer and see how it goes. Thanks everyone. If it doesn’t work out, trust me, I’ll be posting.
You're welcome. I'll also add that it is a lot easier to grind a bit of clearance into the spacer (if needed) than the cast iron intake.

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  #29  
Old 06-14-2023, 09:34 PM
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Got my 1/2” phenolic spacer, bent a new fuel line, as the old one was too short, and bolted on my new to me Quadrajet today.
All good! Man this carb runs so much better than the junk one that came on this car. I just adjusted the idle up 100rpm from where it was and went on a 40 mile cruise. Can’t wait to get time to finally dial the carb, and whole engine, in.
Thanks for the help and opinions guys!
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71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi
13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs.

‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears.
  #30  
Old 06-14-2023, 09:38 PM
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Fixed
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71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi
13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs.

‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears.
  #31  
Old 06-14-2023, 10:43 PM
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New fuel looks good!!!

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1977 Black Trans Am 180 HP Auto, essentially base model T/A.
I'm the original owner, purchased May 7, 1977.

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  #32  
Old 06-14-2023, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77 TRASHCAN View Post
New fuel looks good!!!
Fuel line? Don’t remind me. If I bent fuel and brake line as a profession, I’d go broke. It took me a painfully long time, and many pieces going into the garbage, to get it correct.
Thanks!

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71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi
13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs.

‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears.

Last edited by 67drake; 06-14-2023 at 10:59 PM.
  #33  
Old 06-14-2023, 11:02 PM
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That alloy line bends and flares pretty easily. Unless you have a sharp bend, you can wrap it around a form (like a socket) without a bender. I tried some steel line and couldn’t flare the ends. The clamp on the flaring tool couldn’t hold the tube tight enough and pushed the line out of the clamp before it would flare.

You can paint the line with rattle can lacquer and clearcoat to look like steel.. The lacquers are pretty fuel resistant and stick to the green poly coating on the lines.

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