#261  
Old 05-28-2021, 11:26 PM
randy1966GTO randy1966GTO is offline
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The instructions were very good in showing how to wire the system and which harnesses went to each subsystem. Take your time and you'll both be fine.

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Old 06-01-2021, 03:38 PM
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Have been spending time lately tending to odds and ends. I had to buy a different console top because the previous owner of my car butchered the existing one to install a Hurst V-Matic shifter. The donor top which I bought from Facebook marketplace is ok for now, but very far from perfect. The seller didn't do as good of a job of describing/showing its condition as I would have liked. It has plenty of pitting needs to be professionally reconditioned and re-chromed. That's big bucks, so I decided to clean it up and repaint it as best I can for the time being. I don't want it to keep me getting the car back on the road, so it will be temporarily less than perfect. I wish new console tops water available for the auto trans cars... The good news is that I will be able to use it in conjunction with my new Hurst Pro-Matic 2 shifter and conceal it rather nicely using the stock shifter plate.






Also have been revisiting the emblems, some of which can be reused. They aren't totally perfect, but pretty darn good, especially when not looking at them through a magnifying glass. All told, not too difficult to strip the old paint off and repaint.



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Last edited by ZeGermanHam; 06-01-2021 at 03:43 PM.
  #263  
Old 06-01-2021, 03:52 PM
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The emblem work is pretty damn good!

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Old 06-01-2021, 06:33 PM
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Those turned out extremely well! Now I have some motivation for my '65!

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Old 06-01-2021, 07:19 PM
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Thank you! No doubt, it's tedious work. Painting the emblems is pretty easy, though. Redoing the console lid took some time, 95% of which was carefully taping everything off. I just put on some music and got into a groove.

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  #266  
Old 06-02-2021, 08:33 AM
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Excellent work on the console. I bought one from the classifieds here. I had high hopes for it but it turned out to be, l think, an absolutely useless piece of crap. Seems way more pitted than what you started with there.. l mean as in cheese grater rough...but after seeing yours I may have to take another look at it.

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  #267  
Old 06-02-2021, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Reid View Post
Excellent work on the console. I bought one from the classifieds here. I had high hopes for it but it turned out to be, l think, an absolutely useless piece of crap. Seems way more pitted than what you started with there.. l mean as in cheese grater rough...but after seeing yours I may have to take another look at it.

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Thanks, Greg. Yeah, I was kinda disappointed when my console top arrived in the mail, too. What I learned in the process of cleaning mine up is that many of the pits in-between the ribs can be sanded down and somewhat concealed under paint. That helps the overall appearance a good amount. There isn't anything that can be done about pits on the unpainted chrome parts of course, but smoothing out the parts that get painted goes a long way. Might be worth a try with your console.

I figure I'll just use this console top for a little while, get some miles on the car and shake out any bugs, etc., then go back on the hunt for a console top in better shape, or have mine professionally restored.

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  #268  
Old 06-02-2021, 10:40 PM
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Painting that console...reminds me of painting Mickey Thompson valve covers. No tape needed.....just spray the whole thing...let it set a. Week...then take some 320 grit paper on a sanding block and sand the high spot on the ribs...comes out beautiful !

  #269  
Old 06-02-2021, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUSLCAH View Post
Painting that console...reminds me of painting Mickey Thompson valve covers. No tape needed.....just spray the whole thing...let it set a. Week...then take some 320 grit paper on a sanding block and sand the high spot on the ribs...comes out beautiful !
That approach works for the M/T valve covers, but I think you'd end up sanding right through the chrome of the console top.

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  #270  
Old 06-02-2021, 11:51 PM
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Would 0000 steel wool work?

How did you get the emblem's paint lines so sharp?

  #271  
Old 06-03-2021, 12:07 AM
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I tried some 0000 steel wool on the console. It removed some very minor imperfections, but it was nowhere near enough to do anything with the pits. The issue with the pits is that the chrome coating has actually bubbled up and it then flakes off. So you're just left with a bare metal (i.e., un-chromed) surface underneath.

For the emblem, I applied the paint with a very tiny paint brush and also a syringe. You can get them from just about any art supply or hobby store. For the "6.5 LITRE" text, I just filled the letters in with the syringe and then wiped away any excess paint (once dry) with shop towel that was very slightly dampened with lacquer thinner.

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  #272  
Old 06-03-2021, 10:34 AM
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The tail light housings on the 64 are similar. When I was getting rid of the chrome blisters/bubbles I used this nice little round burr. The burr is made for a dremel tool - but I was just doing it by hand. This made it easy to get through the bubble and the black bad metal to shiny good stuff.

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  #273  
Old 06-04-2021, 10:03 AM
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Wild Cat, what did you do about any blisters that may have been present on the raised fins? If you took them off you'd have to re-chrome, right?
It appears that all of your bad spots were fortunately down in the grooves?

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  #274  
Old 06-04-2021, 11:26 AM
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FWIW the 66 and 67 front fenders interchange but the lip on the inside of the headlights is slightly different

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  #275  
Old 06-04-2021, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Wild Cat, what did you do about any blisters that may have been present on the raised fins? If you took them off you'd have to re-chrome, right?
It appears that all of your bad spots were fortunately down in the grooves?
Hi Grey -- I left the few on the fin tops alone - they would need rechromed otherwise. I can't speak to the console tops - but these tail light housing seem to have the problem mostly in the low areas. At the start once the chrome breaks loose, you get a black powder and the area feels soft under the burr. When I was done I had small half-round divots down to solid metal.

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Old 06-10-2021, 12:13 AM
barrierbluegto barrierbluegto is offline
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I sanded in the grooves with a 4 1/2 grinder cutting disc by hand, painted the whole thing black and razor bladed off the chrome ribs when the paint was just a little less than tacky. I feel that it came out pretty well considering.

  #277  
Old 07-04-2021, 05:45 PM
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Small update for the 4th of July. I received a few photos of the body from the painter. The body has been taken apart again and fully cleaned. He mentioned that they did some sort of acid wash to fully neutralize any surface rust. Once that was all cleaned up he got it sealed. Now he is moving onto leveling. This bodywork photos are older and just show the sealer primer, though. Also check out the paint sample card. Looks good to me!

I also finally received my new Holley Sniper EFI fuel tank and pump, but I'm still waiting on my exhaust system w/manifolds and engine pulleys from RARE, which have been on backorder since April. The supply chain is making life difficult right now, for sure.





On my end, I finally got the dash squared away. It's a new dash bezel, new in-dash tach (I'm excited to have that), new headlight switch, ignition switch, and cigar lighter, but original primary gauges. The dash bezel took a little but of finessing to get set up. One of the mounting posts for the gauges was about 3/16" too long, which prevented the gauges from laying flat one the bezel. Also, one of the pre-marked lines for cutting the A/C opening was a little off and needed to be opened up a bit. Both issues were easy enough to remedy. For the walnut veneer, I applied three coats of Minwax wipe-on polyurethane, which goes on very thin. It resulted in somewhat of a satin finish, which I'm happy with. I also reset the odometer to zero, since the car had been driven for decades with the speedometer and odometer wildly off due to the previous owner installing 3:91 gears without changing the speedo gear in the trans. The car is being reborn anyway, so I figure why not.



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  #278  
Old 07-05-2021, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGermanHam View Post
Small update for the 4th of July. ....

On my end, I finally got the dash squared away. It's a new dash bezel, new in-dash tach (I'm excited to have that), new headlight switch, ignition switch, and cigar lighter, but original primary gauges. The dash bezel took a little but of finessing to get set up. One of the mounting posts for the gauges was about 3/16" too long, which prevented the gauges from laying flat one the bezel. Also, one of the pre-marked lines for cutting the A/C opening was a little off and needed to be opened up a bit. Both issues were easy enough to remedy. For the walnut veneer, I applied three coats of Minwax wipe-on polyurethane, which goes on very thin. It resulted in somewhat of a satin finish, which I'm happy with. I also reset the odometer to zero, since the car had been driven for decades with the speedometer and odometer wildly off due to the previous owner installing 3:91 gears without changing the speedo gear in the trans. The car is being reborn anyway, so I figure why not.


Your dash looks great, I am currently doing mine as well and your level of craftsman ship makes me envious. I chose to go a little darker with the finish using a pecan stain I know is a quality product.

I am a little confused about the order of your gauges, I always thought the order (left to right) was fuel/bat, speed o, tach, water/oil?

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  #279  
Old 07-05-2021, 12:07 PM
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I am a little confused about the order of your gauges, I always thought the order (left to right) was fuel/bat, speed o, tach, water/oil?
The gauge order you describe is how the rally gauges are arranged. My car has the standard non-rally gauges (which are ordered differently from the rally gauges), and no tach originally. The pod where the (aftermarket) tachometer is now located was just a blank spot, not even a clock. Unfortunately, due to how the gauges are housed in their metal casing, you can't put the tach next to the speedo if you have the non-rally gauges. You're stuck putting the tach in the 4th pod to the right. This isn't an ideal location for a tach, but it's better than nothing and I didn't want to install a remote-mounted tach or buy rally gauges.

As for the walnut veneer, the photo is a little deceiving. It's a little darker in real life than it appears in the photo. Either way, I'm sure yours will come out nicely. Take your time and have fun getting there!

One bit of advice I'll offer... Don't rely entirely on the adhesive backing of the veneer when attaching it to the dash bezel. I recommend using a little bit of JB Weld PlasticWeld epoxy in areas where the veneer won't otherwise be held down by other things (e.g., switch bezels). I added epoxy between the gauge pods, in the corners, and a few other spots. I don't think the adhesive backing that comes on the veneer will be enough to stay stuck to the dash in the long run.

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Old 07-15-2021, 12:48 AM
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Spent a little time tonight cleaning up various exterior items tonight, including the front parking lamps. They cleaned up pretty nicely, with the exception being the cone reflector that shields the bulb. They both look past their prime, and have some surface irregularities that almost make them look as if they're wrapped in foil. It doesn't appear that Ames sells these cones as separate items. Anyone know if they are produced anywhere?



Also cleaned up my headlight bezels as best I could. One is in pretty good shape, and the other has some slight pitting. So I called my local metal plating company, who wanted between $700-1000 to re-chrome the bezels... Ouch. I'm going to think about it...


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