[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

I bought the Delco delay/pump add-on unit and fabricated a switch - but it only went 20° total swing. I will bench test another idea I have.

Still have not been able to get the PCM to talk to the gauges

I'm interested in any ideas you can share, and will do the same...

I have yet to hear of anyone using the LS PCM out feeds for aftermarket gauges, my understanding is they aren't compatible. It's like not a typical sensor feed, so it requires the OE gauges to work properly. But I haven't looked at that for a while, may be some solutions out there now.

Most just run a separate sensor harness, and use the gauge manufacture's sensors. You can use the same loom as the OE harness has that came with the swap kit, make it blend in better.

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[Scarebird]

That is what I did; I ran the oil and temp and used Speedhut's sensers. It is the tach and speedo that are giving me the grief.

I will talk to Speedhut on Monday and see if they will sell me the cheapest CANBUS tach they have and test it right in the engine compartment (where the test port is). I do not wish to pull the dash again until I get a repop one from Ames.

[Overkillphil]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I'm going to retro some intermittent wipers on all my classics, from what I understand, it's not that difficult, and there are a few kits out there too.

Think the 79-81 firebird wiper motors are intermittent, and you just need to figure something out with the switch. Mounting I believe is pretty standard among A & F bodies (and some B), 67-81. (but can't recall exactly at the moment)

I'll do the homework and do a thread on it when it comes time to do the 79 tribute, should be about 3 months or so.

I totally dig the gauges by the way....

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Get the OEM setup from a donor car. Years ago I remember when these cars had aftermarket intermittent wiper kits installed and the stickler is this: the wipers need to stay up (not "parked") when in intermittent mode. The aftermarket kits (at least all of the ones I saw) would park the wipers after each sweep. This is infuriating and made me want to choke the designer to death.

[HWYSTR455]

These might help:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...magic-man.html

This thread is referenced in the above thread:

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...ach-(autometer

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[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Overkillphil

Get the OEM setup from a donor car. Years ago I remember when these cars had aftermarket intermittent wiper kits installed and the stickler is this: the wipers need to stay up (not "parked") when in intermittent mode. The aftermarket kits (at least all of the ones I saw) would park the wipers after each sweep. This is infuriating and made me want to choke the designer to death.

Oh that would not make me a happy camper, the kits are not cheap.

I use 79-81 dashes in my 73, so the proper cutout/bracing is there for the intermittent switch. It's the A-body I need to figure something out on.

I've seen some 'make it work', the switch, in a 68-72 dash, but it ain't pretty. I'm tempted to start looking at other bodies to see what I can do (like G and others). Problem is, after a certain year, they move to the stalk switch.

I'm all ears on this one...

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[70455HOVert]

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=759129

Here's how I put intermittent wipers in my GTO and have it look factory...well minus the "WIPER"

[HWYSTR455]

I'm gathering info on this again, I'm getting close to need it. Thanks everyone that has provided input, and will also share my experience.

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[Scarebird]

Back in drydock for more work. Finally sorted out the tach and speedo - turns out the bulkhead connector did not have the right signal. The gauges only work with the ALDL port in the car. Easy enough fix. I did get the dash from Classic; they seem to be only filling retail orders currently. Not a bad piece.

One thing that vexed me with the 2nd Gen Pontiac "F"s is the emergency brake release - really balky on a good day. The Camaros have the Tee handle pull like the 64-72 A's. I trimmed off the cable pull hook on the release then fabbed up a simple pull rod; just a little finger hook.

This is what I started with:



Welded a nut to the end of the stainless rod. Lever had a 1/4" Ø hole drilled thru it then a machine screw run in from behind.



How it looks roughed up in the car. I can easily get a Tee handle and thread the end for it after cutting off the hook - we will see!

[HWYSTR455]

Well that turned out nice! You can dress the pull handle up some too, maybe some shrink tubing and a vacuum cap on the end would work? Maybe even just a length of vacuum line even, but not sure how it could be finished on the open end.

So you have an earlier dash? Wasn't there a relief in the dash for the handle? Now I wonder what years that's there and what year not?

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[Scarebird]

Ended up using a 1969 Firebird T-handle.

[Scarebird]

I was going to take the TA on a trip of 200 miles and realized I had no spare tire. The trunk is minimal as is, so I grabbed my compact spare - I did not clear the 1LE rotor/caliper combo. My father has a 1998 Z28 so I tried the spare in it with success. Now I need to find one...

[HWYSTR455]

I don't bother with a spare, if I get a flat, I just call a flat bed. Depending where I am, I take it home or to a shop where I can get a tire.

If the wheel is already messed up from getting the flat, just drive on it until you get somewhere you can get a wheel/tire, somewhere you can have one delivered & changed.

That approach isn't for everyone I guess, have to weigh the risks for yourself.

I've been lucky I guess, I can only remember getting a flat twice in all the years and driving I've done.

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[Scarebird]

It is a thought...

though last flat I had was over in 20 seconds - killing the tire.

[Scarebird]

One thing I was not happy with this car was some of the rattles, squeaks and bangs - the design seems to be an open love letter to NVH: come get me!
That said I was running 1980 non turbo 301 springs, one would think they are soft. Some searching on nasty28 revealed a guy running drag springs on his car (!?!). After cutting a coil he said his rate was about 230#. hmm. My front weighs 1920 with me and a full tank of gas. I ordered a set of Moroso 47175's (230#) rate.

Summit had them to me the next day and they were installed.
Huge difference as ruts and hole that would punish the subframe were now minor bumps. Granted, roll rate was a bit more but nothing terrible. Old springs after cutting calc'd to 450# - way too much! New springs were cut half a coil and sit an inch higher than I like but may settle in. New on left:

[HWYSTR455]

I may be an exception, but I run 700s on my 'bird. I ran 550s for a long time, then 600s, and IMO, they were still too soft. Spoke with a number of autocross guys and a few suppliers, and many recommended the 700s, if you still drive on the street.

Off the top of my head, think the WS6 front springs were 460, rears were 130.

Z28s of the 77/78 year range had front springs that were 365, and that's with a small block. I've seen folks use those and they are way too soft and will bottom out.

Just throwing that out there as a point of reference.

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[Scarebird]

I will keep that thought. I have not hit any really bottoming out bumps - try to avoid them as them will demolish the air dam.

Fabbed up a jack/tire retention set up 2001 that did clear. Using a scissor jack so I welded the folding rod to my star wrench - all retained by a wing nutted hook.

[Overkillphil]

"Back in the day" Adams of course was a proponent of softer stock Firebird springs cut a bit to get the nose down while guys like Guldstrand favored the 700 lb springs. I remember a shootout one time with many of the major players and while all of the cars handled well, the summary was the 700 lb springs were the ticket on smooth track or road course and the softer springs (Adams car) excelled on public roads with their irregularities which enabled the tires to maintain contact through constantly changing surfaces. I know here in PA the roads would kill the car and me with 700 lb springs. But when I drive to southern Delaware the roads are smooth and well maintained and I don't think they'd be an issue at all with the 700's.

[Scarebird]

I read that article, and buy into what Adams did. The roads here can be quite nasty.

[HWYSTR455]

Yeah, it's the soft springs/big bar vs the stiff springs/small bar theories. It does depend on the surface, to a degree, but you have to have the travel too. Herb tuned with shocks, and you can still get a washboard effect from stiff shocks.

You can get a little washboard effect once you go beyond a certain rate spring, but there are trade offs. There's some basic suspension tuning that one needs to keep in mind depending on which 'theory' you choose to follow, either really works.

You don't want to do the 'Gulfstrand Mod' though. That's been disproven, especially on 2nd gens.

EDIT: Oh, forgot the point, which is where many get into trouble, is when you use big bars and switch to high rate springs, with stiff shocks. That would be an unacceptable combo for a street driven car, washboard city.

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[Scarebird]

HWYSTR455: yes, the effective rate of the old spring was 450+, so yes it was terrible with less than a ton on the nose.