[wheelmanrob]

I'm not sure where the issue lies, but the hood is coming into contact with the brake master cylinder cap hold down clip. It has left a witness rub mark on the hood, but the hood seems to close ok despite this. The hood seems a little higher compared than the driver fender in the middle, but is flush at the front and nearly flush at the rear.

This car has its original sheet metal, but was taken apart and painted. There is a full WS6 braking system (BMC, hard lines, rear disc etc.) installed, which isn't original to the car. Before restoration, this fitment issue was not present. I'm hoping it can be sorted through adjustment. Formulas could be ordered with the WS6 option so the brake master cylinder shouldn't have a fitment issue with a Formula hood.

Should I try and adjust the hood hinge to lift the hood up slightly on this one side, and see if I can get the fender to come up as well to keep panel gaps in check? At this point I'm not sure what to adjust and need to seek advice before I mess with anything.

[400 4spd.]

I experienced this with a '78 T/A restoration. Wiper arm interference with the hood was another problem, so check for that. The fix was shimming the fenders up higher on the cowl. Doing this raised the hood hinges, which in turn brought the hood up higher off of the cowl.

[wheelmanrob]

Originally Posted by 400 4spd.

I experienced this with a '78 T/A restoration. Wiper arm interference with the hood was another problem, so check for that. The fix was shimming the fenders up higher on the cowl. Doing this raised the hood hinges, which in turn brought the hood up higher off of the cowl.

Thanks for the advice, I will look into the wipers and the shimming at the cowl.

[n20ta2]

If your door gap to quarter is good and your door to fender gap is good adding shims to the fender up will mess with that. Does the hood sit fush with the fender?

[wheelmanrob]

Originally Posted by n20ta2

If your door gap to quarter is good and your door to fender gap is good adding shims to the fender up will mess with that. Does the hood sit fush with the fender?

The door to quarter gaps are ok, not perfect. I haven't looked at the fender to door gaps. The hood is flush at the front nose, and flush at the windshield/fender. For some reason the hood is not flush in the middle at the fender. I'm wondering if the hood is bowing from contacting the brake master cylinder?

["QUICK-SILVER"]

If the nose of the master cylinder is still too high, after you get lines and gaps where you want them,... I'd be tempted to cut a thin shim to put between booster and firewall at the two top bolts.

Just a thought
Clay

[400 4spd.]

Originally Posted by n20ta2

If your door gap to quarter is good and your door to fender gap is good adding shims to the fender up will mess with that. Does the hood sit fush with the fender?

We pulled it off.

[Formulabruce]

1979, 1980 WS-6 Has a special smaller diameter booster, but still metal reservoir. 81 used a plastic reservoir. The size of the original unit may sit lower or lower angle. This could be your issue

[wheelmanrob]

I noticed the plastic reservoirs on the later cars. It’s much shorter and would clear easily. I’m wondering if there are different master cylinders I could swap in to resolve the issue without messing with the body. Wilwood sells a low profile master cylinder as well. I need to come up with my game plan, everyone has been very helpful chiming in here. I will make sure to update this thread when I dive into it and solve the issue.