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Old 11-24-2021, 06:08 PM
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Default S 10 wiring harness removal help

I have a fire damaged 2001 S 10 that I am trying to replace the ignition switch wiring harness in. I have everything loose except the part that plugs into the bottom of the switch. How do I get it out?
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Old 11-24-2021, 06:38 PM
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Lock tabs are in the two small rectangle shaped holes in your circle. One on the left and one on the right. The whole switch slides out.

Watch here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXKp3UEXnUQ&t=377s

Clay

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Old 11-24-2021, 07:46 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply. That is just what I needed.

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Old 11-25-2021, 12:01 AM
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I have seen them melted in also!

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Old 11-25-2021, 01:46 PM
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I got the old harness out, the new one in and the truck still will not start. New gas tank, fuel pump and lines. I get gas up to the test port on the back of the motor. I can squirt a little starter fluid in the intake and motor fires right off but only runs a second or two.

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Old 11-25-2021, 02:27 PM
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Got to figure out if its no power to the injectors or the computer not doing the ground that triggers the injectors.

No power is easy enough with fuses and relays... Test light is good enough to probe injector wires.

No ground trigger, from computer, can get deep

Clay

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Old 11-25-2021, 10:58 PM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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Is this a 4.3 Vortech central injected engine? (Spider injection? If it is, you MUST check fuel pressure with an accurate gauge at the central injector unit. You must have the minimum fuel pump pressure necessary to open the mechanical popit injectors. Pressure needs to be 55-61 PSI period. 53 PSI = no start. If it runs on starter fluid, ignition system and engine mechanical is probably OK. Fuel pumps are super high failure on these engines. Aftermarket pumps like Airtex may not make enough pressure brand new. AC Delco or Delphi pumps only for these vehicles. Good luck with it. Remember new does not mean it's good. It only means it's different. Just last week spent 6 hours of backbreaking work putting a "NEW" fuel pump in a Hyundai. Car now runs but fuel gauge doesn't work! Damn.

Another quick test you can do if you really feel the fuel pump is good is check the circuit for amperage capability. A test light will NOT work. You need to hook up a high draw light, like an old headlight to the fuel pump circuit. Unplug it and hook the headlight with jumpers to the power and ground in the 4 wire fuel pump connector. Cycle the key and the headlight should come on full bright for 3 seconds and turn off. If it's not full bright, most likely the ground wire that goes to the frame is not clean and making a nice ground fix that next.


Last edited by mgarblik; 11-25-2021 at 11:06 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 01:12 AM
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This truck sat up for over 5 years without being cranked. The old gas tank was rusted to the point that the top was gone and remnants were laying in the sludge in the bottom. I did test the new pump but if I remember correctly the pressure was about 51 or 52 psi. I understand there is a newer spider that will work on this motor. Do you know which one it is and does it take less pressure?

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Old Yesterday, 09:40 PM
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Yes, The brand new spider assembly does away with the mechanical popit valves and replaces them with electrical injectors at the end of each "plastic straw" It looks quite a bit different than the OE unit but is a direct replacement. In theory, it would operate at lower pressure than the OE unit. Delco sells the replacement. Looks like Amazon has all different brands.

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Old Yesterday, 10:42 PM
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I tested the fuel pump pressure today. I used a jumper wire from the battery to a slot on the fuel pump relay as I was told to do. Initial pressure was 62 psi. When I disconnected the jumper wire the pressure dropped quickly to 58 psi then very slowly to about 55psi were it remained until I bled the pressure from the gauge. I repeated the test three or four times with the same results so I am thinking the fuel pump is good.
After removing the gauge I decided to try cranking the motor but the new battery was completely dead. So, I charged the battery and tried cranking again, now the fuel pump will not initiate when I turn the key on. I think I may have messed up when I first hooked the jumper wire up as it came out of the fuel pump slot in the fuse box and arced against a 15 amp fuse marked ECM that was not fully inserted in its slot right next to the fuel pump relay. Could that short arc have fried the ECM?

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Old Yesterday, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgarblik View Post
Yes, The brand new spider assembly does away with the mechanical popit valves and replaces them with electrical injectors at the end of each "plastic straw" It looks quite a bit different than the OE unit but is a direct replacement. In theory, it would operate at lower pressure than the OE unit. Delco sells the replacement. Looks like Amazon has all different brands.
Can you give this old man a part number for the new spider?

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Old Today, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fyrffytr1 View Post
Can you give this old man a part number for the new spider?
I found them.

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