The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum

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  #81  
Old 11-25-2021, 05:58 AM
dhutton dhutton is offline
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Lucerne Blue is metallic.

Spot blast any lingering rust.

Don

  #82  
Old 11-25-2021, 07:14 AM
Skidmark Skidmark is offline
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Thanks Roger1 heading to your build thread now.

Dsutton, thanks I' be been wanting a small blaster.

  #83  
Old 11-25-2021, 09:13 AM
dhutton dhutton is offline
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Spot blaster something like this for small spots.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/23393412001...0AAOSwmXJgDofT

One other note. Wire wheels will burnish the metal and lead to poor paint adhesion. Always sand those area to give a tooth after wire wheeling.

Don

  #84  
Old 11-25-2021, 10:17 AM
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You got this! I did my Firebird myself. I recommend taking all trim off, as much as you can so you dont tape around anything. I removed the hood and deck lid, painted the bottoms of them, then reinstalled to paint the car. All 4 corners on jack stands with tires removed.
And test paint something else first to get the spray pattern down before you hit the car with paint.

  #85  
Old 11-25-2021, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
Spot blaster something like this for small spots.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/23393412001...0AAOSwmXJgDofT

One other note. Wire wheels will burnish the metal and lead to poor paint adhesion. Always sand those area to give a tooth after wire wheeling.

Don

Fiber stripping wheels and Roloc style Bristle Discs will have the same effect. We always follow with 80 on a DA before anything else goes on the surface.

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  #86  
Old 11-25-2021, 12:01 PM
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unruhjonny unruhjonny is offline
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if you're into watching videos to learn from others, there's a kid who restored his Fiero;
I would think that the specifiec videos pertaining to how he painted, and showing what he did wrong would really help.

Fiero restoration

Congrats to you for deciding to do this yourself - I will probably be doing the same... unless I can find someone willing to paint at a rate lower than insurance repairs - which is highly unlikely.

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  #87  
Old 11-25-2021, 12:44 PM
Skidmark Skidmark is offline
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Thanks for all the tips.

Whenever I get a tip from one of you, I write it down. I'll refer back to them when I'm at that point of the process.

I had no idea that the wire wheels might somehow affect the adhesive qualities of the primer.

When and where possible I'll hit it with the 80 grit afterwards.

Definitely investing in a blaster.

  #88  
Old 11-25-2021, 01:06 PM
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Blasting also leaves a good texture for epoxy primer. No need to sand that. Just make sure all the metal is cleaned. SPI waterborne W&G remover is what you want to use.

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  #89  
Old 11-25-2021, 01:15 PM
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Two more items of interest. When checking your body work. Don't use your bare hand. Use something like a piece of bedsheet as a buffer with your hand. It'll identify low spots easier.
Also, don't be afraid to spray metallic. It may be a bit tougher, but very doable for a newbie. I know. The biggest thing I found, was keeping the paint particles suspended by swirling/shaking the paint gun every so often to keep the heavier particles suspended. Mixing well before pouring into paint gun important here.

  #90  
Old Today, 12:38 PM
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Paint tip #101….when you have a NEW mix of paint…and your opening it for the FIRST TIME…whether it’s a pint ,quart or Gallon…ALWAYS empty the unreduced paint into another another container….and put a splash of your reducer in the bottom of the can and stir well to get every trace of color off the bottom of the can…and dump that into your unreduced paint and stir well. You may have to do a few splashes ..to get it all. Then you can reduce your paint . This process assures you…that every tiny tint that made up your formula ..is now in your color and not stuck on the bottom of the can.

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