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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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Is it wise to powder coat a set of Rally II wheels? My main concern is will the coating cover up the the wheels manufacturer id stampings? What is a good price to powder coat them?
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#2
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Is it wise to powder coat a set of Rally II wheels? My main concern is will the coating cover up the the wheels manufacturer id stampings? What is a good price to powder coat them?
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#3
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Good questions, I have no answer, but I hope you get one.
I would also like to know if it takes away or adds to thier value?....let's hear it guys..this rookie need the same advice for rally 1's...
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#4
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I have a question ... can they two tone the rally 2 wheels when they powder coat them . ie the silver and argent .
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Man is not complete until he's married , then he is finished ! |
#5
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I've been doing research on the cost of powder coating my Rally II. My first concern was would the coating fill in an erase the factory stamping marking on the wheel. I was told that the markings would be totally visible after the process.
The wheels would first need to be sand blasted or have the old paint chemically removed ($15.00 to $30.00 per wheel). The two colors on the (silver & gray) would cost $65.00 a wheel. To have the back of the wheel coated and the have a clear coat put on would cost another $35.00. Total cost per wheel is about $115.00 a wheel. I think I'll just have them repainted for less than half the price. |
#6
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you need to come to Reno! I've got a powder man here that charges 15-35 a rim and that is painting the whole rim! Not per side!
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"It beats pickin' cotton and waitin' to be forgotten" |
#7
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Retrojoe
I'm coming up for Hot August Nights. I might take your guy up on the powder coating. i decedied to just paint them for the time being. I'll be staying at the Hilton. Just look for the white Judge convertible. |
#8
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Hello to all. I have been powder coating for 15 years now. To answer a couple of questions...Preping the wheel is key. Sandblasting them is a quick/effective way to prep them.Because powder uses heat to cure,if the rim has pits from cleaning off rust,Iwould suggest prebaking them at the powder cure temp then letting them cool before applying powder and curring.Reason..could cause small blisters in finish.Also,powder film thickness depends alot on the geometry of the part.For example..Trying to spray into the tight areas powder has a tendancy to bounce back.Known as Faraday cage effect.To get even/complete coverage it will tend to be applied thicker than paint. A wheel I would guess would apply in the 4-6 mil range. I am setting up this summer my own system to do odd and ends such as wheels and brackets.So at some point I will have real thickness measurements. I would guess you may run risk of filling in codes.One other note..Powder is not a sacraficial coating. It will protect the base metal from corrosion until the powder is scrathced to bare metal.Then corrosion will creep under the powder and eventually blister it up. Chemistry of the powder is key also.You do not want an epoxy formulation on parts exposed to direct sunlight.They will eventually chalk up.Clear coats will slow the process. Be sure you know what the supplier is using.Cost I would think should be in the 15-20/rim total. Powder is relatively inexpensive, and environmentally safe as compared to paints and there disposal.Joe
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#9
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Glenn,your car is a show car and I know you are going to Denver(GTO NATS).I saw your question in the LEGEND re/interior,so I know you are concerned about judging points.To powder coat your heels would definately take points away and especially clear coating them.I would paint them like the factory did,those judges are smartand they will be able to tell the difference.Bigpop
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Mr. President, you can't say Dallas doesn't love you " |
#10
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Bigpop
Thanks for the advise. Would it be OK to paint them and then put a clear coat on? I was really surprised to see my question published in the Legend. That wasn't my intention, but if it helps the hobby, so be it. I would have liked to have kept a lower profile. I emailed Bill Markowski, GTOAA President asking him his opinion. Two months later its in the Legend. Seems that there isn't a consensus of opinion in the GTOAA. An additional opinion that was not printed was from Steve Lucas, Chief Technical Advisor. He stated that "the concours judges are told not to deduct points if that item has been reproduced and is the best reproduction available." I went ahead and replaced my seat covers with the "new comfort-weave". Just ask Chris at PY. These are the best replacements that can be purchased. |
#11
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Glenn, I will try to look for you at the Hilton. Thanks to my brother in law he picked that weekend to get married! I will miss most of the event do to that(Thanks Nick!).Have you been up here before? Email me and I can tell you what are the best places to go, and places to avoid! I'd love to see the car!
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"It beats pickin' cotton and waitin' to be forgotten" |
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