[JUDGE3]

going to monitor my expense of my final body and paint work.

have spent around $1,000 on just body and primer products already and another $500 today on Ppg epoxy primer and a few other items. not including sanding, mixing, application supplies. going to include those in the end though.

I'm not experienced enough to know what generic brands are just as good as name brands. so I stay with higher end name brand products. I figure if i'm doing this myself and trying hard to do it right I at least better give myself the best chance and use the name brand product. always seen Ppg so going with that.

I would like to hear what others have spent when completed doing it themselves and especially what a pro thinks a QUALITY diy job should cost? I'm guessing $5,000 ?

and I don't mean the cost of a spray a cheap paint and accept orange peel type jobs on an average prepared car your trying to flip. tons of those out there. you know, the type of job you might do on a chevy.

[tjs72lemans]

Chevy? Hold on now! I painted my 55 Chevy ten years ago with TCP Global paint (clear,base) for less than two grand. It looks just as nice today. Two years ago I painted my 72 Lemans with PPG clear, base (tri coat actually), for three grand. But, that Lamborghini orange pearl paint on top of white is expensive. I know supplies have gone up lately, but I'm sure you can stay withing your budget.

[Gator67]

I'm almost through the process of painting my son's 79 Y84 TA and I think we'll have about $3500 or so in materials. It's black, and we went with single stage Valspar, so the paint itself wasn't too bad. But the primer, sealer, etc., and all the odds and ends (e.g., sandpaper, tape, masking paper, plastic sheeting, wax and grease remover) really add up if one keeps track. On my last trip to the paint store I spent over $600 on 3m compound, machine polish, ultra fine polish and pads. That was a surprise. I spent about 50% more on materials for my 70 Formula...difference being Carousel Red in high end B/C

[HoovDaddy]

Originally Posted by Gator67

I spent about 50% more on materials for my 70 Formula...difference being Carousel Red in high end B/C

Red is the most expensive pigment, so any color with red in it will be extra cost. Paint and chemicals (I use PPG) have gone up about 30% in the past year.

I estimate $5k to $7k on the cars we do in our club (on the higher end for a body off).

PPG Epoxy and hardener, SPI Epoxy and hardener, pack of lead, filler, 1 Qt Deltron base, 1 Qt Concept clear and hardener, sandpaper, cost $800 to do the door and trunk lid below, and I get a discount. I already had compounds. I have some material left over, but....

[JUDGE3]

so whats the deal with spi epoxy primer being best for endura bumpers vs Ppg epoxy on endura bumpers?

[dataway]

The SPI epoxy seems to stay very flexible ... if you ever let dry in a can you can pull out what appears to be a rubber plug in the bottom. And it sands extremely well ... so you can build up nice layers of flexible primer.

The Verdoro green paint job on my 68 cost $3000-3500, used SPI epoxy primer, SPI clear, Motobase base, half a can of filler, lots of sandpaper (bought rolls of it). This was a vinyl top car so that saved some paint, it didn't require a lot of body work, averaged about 2.5 coats of base, 3.5 coats of clear. I already had most of the necessary tools, good compressor, good gun, sander, buffer, disposable cup liners, etc.

I had to order some more paint products halfway through the job as I under estimated by about 25% what I needed. I do have some left over though.

If you have to "over order" one thing ... make it the base coat. You want one big consistent batch of color ... the primer and clear you can usually get in smaller amounts as needed.

[JUDGE3]

I'm getting way ahead of myself here but my first effort paint job was pretty good but not what I wanted. I had a real tough time getting wet sanding scratches out of it. the process was a nightmare. my patience is not good.

my car will be white. can I avoid the wet sand process altogether and still have no orange peel?

[Stuart]

Originally Posted by JUDGE3

I would like to hear what others have spent when completed doing it themselves and especially what a pro thinks a QUALITY diy job should cost? I'm guessing $5,000 ?

The biggest part of the cost of a pro job will be labor - both for all the prep done that's required prior to spraying, and also for the final finish work after the paint is on. Depending on how flat and shiny you want the paint to be, they could spend 10 hours or 200 hours just on the wet sanding and buffing.

Of course this doesn't take into account any rust repair or bodywork that may be required before the car is ready for primer and paint.

[Entropy11]

Great info posted here as usual. I’m also a huge fan of SPI. From their products, to ordering, to support, to the free shipping I always get, nothing could go smoother and the products are exceptional. Especially love their epoxy primer and production clear. Their forums over there are a fantastic paint/auto body resource. This is a good start; https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfectpaintjob

I think with quality products (whichever brand you choose) and attention to detail you’ll be very happy.

[JUDGE3]

I have Ppg as my local supplier has that as their main line. with the epoxy primer it states that in using the particular type of Hardner it's a sealer or for flexible parts. I purchased the DP401LF for flexible parts and is supposed to be good for the Endura bumper and fiberglass panels.

also, the base coat clear coat urethane is a flexible system. all new learned info for me. this is my 2nd go at painting.

I'm after a very nice job, not show.

the car will be cameo white, is it possible to not do all the wet sanding and still have a nice orange peel free paint? I have read in a pontiac restoration book, you can go straight from color coat to the clear coat with no wet sanding. for show quality you must wet sand the color coat. I am hoping being a white paint I can skip color coat sanding. fortunately for me I wanted the white/blue stripe Trans Am I know white shows far less discrepancies.

I have learned as a non professional to go for what I will be satisfied with instead of trying to duplicate what a multi experienced pro does.

[tjs72lemans]

I've sprayed three of my cars base/clear and have never sanded the base before clear. Just wipe down with tack rag. I have only sanded the clear to get peel out and a smooth glass shine. If you flow coat your clear and it goes on without runs, you shouldn't have orange peel. I'm no pro painter, so I tend to try to stay away from too heavy of clear to flow it and end up with orange peel to sand.

[HoovDaddy]

Originally Posted by JUDGE3

the car will be cameo white, is it possible to not do all the wet sanding and still have a nice orange peel free paint?
Yes it's possible, and white is very forgiving. But if you are painting in the garage, in less than ideal conditions (like I do a lot) just do the best you can. Temperature and humidity as well as the temp rating of your reducer and hardeners control how the paint reacts on the surface until it either dries or cures. The other part of the equation is learning how to apply the paint wet so it flows nicely without sagging. Finding where the sweet spot is with the paint, kinda like driving with a clutch. The final factor is having a good quality spray gun and knowing how to use it. And thoroughly mix the paint and study the tech sheets. All-in-all, wet sanding is not a deal killer.

I have read in a pontiac restoration book, you can go straight from color coat to the clear coat with no wet sanding. for show quality you must wet sand the color coat.
Yes you can, BUT, I only do it if I'm painting graphics. I want a perfectly smooth surface to lay the masking on so paint won't bleed under the tape. The down side is if you remove some of the color, it could get thin. Plus, the car surface is clean, now you wet sand it and you have to clean it all over again. Not gonna do it, unless there are graphics. If you use Deltron, it sprays nice and it's easy to get a smooth surface. Let me add one thing. When you clear over white, you have to be spotless, if any dirt gets on it, remove it right away, don't bury it with more clear.

I am hoping being a white paint I can skip color coat sanding. fortunately for me I wanted the white/blue stripe Trans Am I know white shows far less discrepancies.
You have 24 hours to tape the stripes, mask the car, paint the blue, paint the clear. So you have to plan it out carefully. Painting the car is pretty much a whole day for one person.
To save time after the last color coat, wait about 40 minutes and mask the hood and deck lid. Spray the rest of the car with clear that same day. Don't clear the hood and deck. Let it sit overnight.

First thing next morning, unmask and start taping the stripes. Use blue 3M polyester tape for the edges and pinstripe. Use 3M green for the rest of the masking. Spray the blue, 2 coats. Let set for 2 hours then carefully remove the tape. Fix any bad edges or other defects with a pinstripe brush. Now clear the hood and deck lid. The stripes will be buried in clear and the edges will be smooth, and after wet sanding the edges will be gone.

The paint below may look smooth, it still requires wet sanding in my mind.

[JUDGE3]

thanks, great info and I appreciate it.

thank goodness the blue stripes are decals so no worries there though.

great looking cars to.

[HoovDaddy]

Originally Posted by JUDGE3

thank goodness the blue stripes are decals so no worries there though.

Thanks. If your using decals, then I would paint the car in Deltron DCC single stage and forget the extra time and expense of the clear. Use the appropriate reducer and hardener based on the ambient temperature. Use a white sealer such as SPI Epoxy reduced. 3 or 4 coats of color will give you enough room to wet sand. The finish will need to be pretty smooth for the decals to lay good.

[JUDGE3]

It seems the base coat/clear coat method is most forgiving to fix an error.

I like the idea of single stage but from what iv'e researched its much harder to shoot flat and nice.

great info, i'm getting intimidated already and i'm not there just yet.

should the evercoat superbuild be applied before epoxy primer?

[tjs72lemans]

Usually epoxy primer is you first coat. Even on bare metal before filler work.

[HoovDaddy]

Originally Posted by JUDGE3

It seems the base coat/clear coat method is most forgiving to fix an error.

I like the idea of single stage but from what iv'e researched its much harder to shoot flat and nice. I disagree, single stage Deltron sprays exactly like most clears. Don't get too hung up on flat finish, it doesn't always work out because of all the variables in the process. Everything needs to align perfectly for that to happen.

great info, i'm getting intimidated already and i'm not there just yet. Planning your attack is a good thing. Practice comes next.

should the evercoat superbuild be applied before epoxy primer? Superbuild is designed to go over bare metal, plastics or OEM paint, so there wouldn't be any advantage to use epoxy primer after the Superbuild. I use DPLF after all the metal work, welding, and lead work is done. I still use lead. I apply 2 coats of DPLF after I have acid washed the body. DPLF is compatible with the acid wash. A lot of painters believe in acid wash to improve adhesion. It's extra work, so paint companies try to sell products that don't require it. You can hit DPLF with a hammer and it won't chip. So DPLF is a great first coat, but it doesn't sand well. Then I use SPI epoxy primer to start and finish the blocking process. It is high build when spraying without reducer and it sands nicely. The evercoat changes color when sanding high and low spots, I just use 2 different colors of SPI to simulate the same thing. The Evercoat is Polyester which is kinda old tech, I believe that epoxy is a lot more chip resistant and corrosion resistant. Epoxy allows you to apply bondo or putty at any point during blocking.
Can't put bondo over most Polyester products. And it allows you to buy only one product for blocking and use it for final sealer coat. Just my opinion from over 50 years of doing this.

Pics showing 2 primer colors and acid washing:

[Rob in NH]

I would go with a clearcoat, it looks better and will stand up to the elements much better.

[JUDGE3]

so my first ever paint job I used base/clear. I wet sanded the color coat, no issues there other than the work. I had a very tough time spraying the clear. orange peel real bad. I was able to wet sand all the orange peel out but I was left with to many very fine sand scratches in areas even after polishing it a lot. I may have had my gun set wrong I dont know.

so I have this pre built in fear of shooting the clear coat now due to that experience.

but, the single stage paint has this stigma to me of a cheesy maco job. also if you dont shoot it very very well it sounds like your toast and stuck with a classic orange peel job. if that happens I would let it cure and redo the entire car. in fact if im not happy with either system i choose i will redo the entire car. have to much hard work and all new metal in this one to accept mediocrity.

but......painting a white car, if I could shoot it really well, single stage sounds fine to. gonna be a game day decision. leaning towards base/clear because I want another chance to beat the clear coat demon and get it right and have vindication. ha, i'm like that.

[Rob in NH]

Practice spraying a panel , try different settings and different air pressure. If you don't have an old panel ask your local body shop for a damage one in their junk pile.