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Old 03-02-2023, 12:56 AM
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Here are some photos of the updated print .. I think it might work, looks dang close to the OEM.





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Old 03-02-2023, 01:23 AM
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wow!
that looks great!

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Old 03-02-2023, 01:25 AM
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Yep, the rendering didn't seem to produce the same radius .. at least visually, that the actual print file produces. Yes, 3d printing is not an exact science yet

Eric ... expect another one in the mail. Should get it in the mail tomorrow.

So the first one would not fit far enough INTO the dash because it had no radius? I know it's hard to visualize ... but the radius makes the back of the plate end up the same size (or much closer) to the size of the first plate I sent ... kind of like dropping a funnel into a funnel.

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Last edited by dataway; 03-02-2023 at 01:33 AM.
  #104  
Old 03-02-2023, 07:42 AM
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That looks different for sure …..If the fit is correct Dataway can u send me the updated cad file again once we hear back from elarson.
Oops never mind see u r a step a head of me….thanks

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Old 03-02-2023, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post

So the first one would not fit far enough INTO the dash because it had no radius? I know it's hard to visualize ... but the radius makes the back of the plate end up the same size (or much closer) to the size of the first plate I sent ... kind of like dropping a funnel into a funnel.
Exactly. The flat face on the back of the plate needs to fit flush to the flat face in the dash and then have slight clearance around the edges. Your new print looks like it's the right idea. Looking forward to the next test-fit.

Eric

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Old 03-02-2023, 10:41 AM
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Your pix are a good education for people on the limitations of 3D printing. Since it's created in layers, a curve ends up with a "stair step" shape.

There's a lot of interest in 3D printed metal parts ("additive manufacturing") in the aircraft engine industry. Parts can be formed with unusual internal voids and passages that could never be machined. But holes with a slope have the stair steps in them. If a perfect round smooth hole needs to be, say, .025" diameter to flow the right amount of air, a printed hole might need to be sized at .028" in the CAD model.

Eric

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Old 03-02-2023, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elarson View Post
Exactly. Looking forward to the next test-fit.

Eric
Me too

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Old 03-02-2023, 03:53 PM
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These prints are being created using a 0.2mm layer height, so layers in the "cake" about .008" .. which is considered a "standard" layer height, meaning not too coarse, not too fine. So the "steps" will be .008" in height. A 1/4" tall print would require about 32 layers.

This setting is kind of a compromise between quality and print time. The next finer steps are 0.16mm (.006"), and 0.12mm (.004"). If this part was such that these corners were visible it would probably be best to print it at one of the finer settings. That can come with it's own set of issues (solvable) along with a print time 1.5 - 2 times longer. Not a HUGE deal because it's not like you have to sit there and operate the machine, it just does it's thing. But in general the longer the print time, the more opportunity for something to go wrong.

I haven't yet printed anything at the higher resolution settings, probably should try it sometime. I usually print with PETG for it's strength and UV resistance ... but a side effect is that it's not as friendly to the finer layers. Tons of variable with this process. You can almost always make it work, but it can sometimes take half a dozen failed prints to find the sweet spot.

This whole project has been a great learning experience to find out what the machines are capable of, and I've been quite surprised what they can do, and more than anything else how durable the parts are. Last night I needed some tiny parts for something I was working on ... kind of a push pin with a barb on it, about half the size of a bulletin board push pin ... it did a great job of printing them. I thought for sure they would fail.

Eric (Larson) ... package is on the way, just picked up.

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Last edited by dataway; 03-02-2023 at 04:28 PM.
  #109  
Old 03-03-2023, 12:56 PM
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I know it probably doesn't matter in plate form, but I thought I'd throw it out there. The standoffs have centering lugs built in. But with the antenna adjustment slot cut in, the right one (passenger side) won't really center unless it's on the other two stands.
And, the 3/16" palnut (speed nut) needs at least a 5/8" OD (7/8" would probably be better) flange.
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Old 03-03-2023, 01:03 PM
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(hopefully I haven't misunderstood you)
... except, the overall perimeter of the plate, centred in the radio opening hole will suffice to position itself properly - the standoffs are only there to secure it.

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Old 03-03-2023, 03:37 PM
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I could rotate the standoffs 90 degrees so the centering lugs would miss the antenna adjustment if necessary. Otherwise .. do the lugs fit in the radio holes properly? I based them on the diameter of the radio bezel holes, which may or may not be the same size as the holes in the metal dash.

I don't think they make PAL nuts that large in diameter to fit that size of the stud ... wonder what the OEM delete plate used? Figured a washer under it would work, I think I left plenty of length in the stud to accomodate a washer. I guess OEM could have used a special wide flange PAL nut. I just tossed those in because that's what I had on hand.

I'm not selling these ... so, it's kinda on the installer to work out the fasteners ... other than the fact the posts take a 3/16" thread cutting nut of some kind.

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Last edited by dataway; 03-03-2023 at 03:47 PM.
  #112  
Old 03-03-2023, 04:03 PM
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I'm thinking something like this picture:

I found this one at McMaster-Carr but I think I've seen them at Lowes.

Eric
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Old 03-03-2023, 08:30 PM
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I can see those being a 1-time install only. They go on, they bite, they don't come off without breaking or with all sorts of dramas, if you even have access to the area which is not something behind the dash has. I'd still look for suitable self-cutting flange nuts, even if they have the slightest bite, only need to hold a plate in place, can at least remove and replace and easily.

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Old 03-04-2023, 01:48 AM
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Yep you probably want something you can remove reasonably easy. Short of buying a box of 100 of some kind of special hardware .. a washer would probably do the trick.

I test threaded a 3/16 PAL nut on the posts, they bite very good and would typically thread right back on the previously cut threads.

I noticed on the OEM delete plates the small locating lugs ARE positioned vertically, so they too would intersect the antenna trimmer cutout .. unless the later years didn't have an antenna trimmer.

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Old 03-04-2023, 06:22 AM
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Here is a picture of the later dash radio area. Notice the two different heights at the knobs.
Again, it may be no big deal. But, because mine were loose pieces, they slid around when they were installed vertically. And, only the one side is affected.
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Old 03-04-2023, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elarson View Post
I'm thinking something like this picture:

I found this one at McMaster-Carr but I think I've seen them at Lowes.

Eric

That's what I sent dataway a picture of and realized that was not right.

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Old 03-04-2023, 05:58 PM
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That deeper cavity could be a problem. Is that year specific? If the 70-77 models are like that then plate might need a taller support on that side. Unless the post is long enough to reach.

Just went and looked at the images of the later model OEM plate on page two of this thread .. the standoffs are definitely taller on right side of the plate, and the support fins are asymmetrical. Not sure if that's the case with the 70-71 ... maybe that's why the later model plates don't fit the earlier models?

Once again, ELarson will be letting us know if the current version works.

Luckily the posts are very easy to redesign. If it turns out the posts need to be changed I'll need someone to measure the difference in height between the two.

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Last edited by dataway; 03-04-2023 at 06:05 PM.
  #118  
Old 03-04-2023, 07:21 PM
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The last photo I posted was the 78-81 dash radio opening. The repro radio delete plate fits it.
If using a 3/16" washer, just make sure the OD is at least 5/8".
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Old 03-04-2023, 10:38 PM
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Yes, the early radios are the same as the later radios in having the different depth bezel at knob locations, same as the delete plates with different height bosses to mount on. The OP had a repro of one of these to supplies details from.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/PkEAA...y~/s-l1600.jpg

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Old 03-04-2023, 11:26 PM
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The latest version is closer but still doesn't fit into the dash. The interference seemed to be worse at the lower corners, so I took a grinder to it and made the radiii bigger....similar to the 3/4" radius that I had predicted on the first round of measurements. After that mod, the plate fits into the dash and the cross-shaped standoffs bottom out in the depressions (where the dials normally are) but the flat face of the plate does not contact the flat face in the dash.

The depressions are 0.17-0.18" deep. The crosses on the standoffs are .300 tall; so they contact first and prevent the plate from going in any farther. The crosses are larger than the holes in the dash, so they do not fit thru the holes in the dash and do not do any centering.

If the crosses were shortened to something like .160", then the plate face "could" contact the dash face but I think the tapered border would again act "too big" and not let the plate go all the way in.

So my recommendations:
Increase radii on bottom corners to 3/4"
Shorten the crosses to be 0.16" tall
Keep the edge profiles the same but reduce the overall width and height both by 1/16".

So close......

Eric
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