[gtorich]

So after all my one piece issues..................doing the tilt test now, i cant get it to tilt anymore................so far i have 6qts of oil in it..............

This look about the right height for you guys that done this.

Thanks

Rich

[Tom Vaught]

If you use a shorter piece of chain on the front part of your adjuster you might get a bit more angle out of the engine.
I would put the front "U-Bolt" one more link lower on the front chains.

Tom V.

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

If you use a shorter piece of chain on the front part of your adjuster you might get a bit more angle out of the engine.
I would put the front "U-Bolt" one more link lower on the front chains.

Tom V.

Tom, you got a good eye, i lowered it two links......... i said the partys over for this tilt deal.............raised the stand and all..............enough fooling around.

Thinking of throwing two more qts of oil..............for a total of 8...............think this is needed or not.

Rich

[BILL BOWMAN1]

Originally Posted by gtorich

Tom, you got a good eye, i lowered it two links......... i said the partys over for this tilt deal.............raised the stand and all..............enough fooling around.

Thinking of throwing two more qts of oil..............for a total of 8...............think this is needed or not.

Rich

I would leave it. All you’re doing is keeping that pan gasket and crank seal wet. 6 quarts is more than plenty. Added two more is not gonna do anything..

[mgarblik]

You have a bunch of similar oil pans there. Put 6 quarts of water in it and hold it at the same angle as your engine and see where the water level is at the rear?

[gtorich]

Hey, Bill & Mike................i should have waited a little longer, but fleet farm was closing at 8:00 , so i threw in two more qts..........lol...........i can use this oil for other stuff, so im not out too much.......................Mike..............i wish i would think like you............never thought of doing that, and i only have 3 oil pans laying around...........this getting old is getting better and better................im in the final stages of CRS...........lol.....................i know this isnt the end all of the test..............even if nothing on the ground, could leak while running, but at least i tried this.

Rich

[77 TRASHCAN]

What rear main seal are you using?

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by 77 TRASHCAN

What rear main seal are you using?

Trashcan...................using the bop one piece rear man, and one piece oil pan gasket.

Rich

[gtorich]

Well, i was hoping for the best, but this is what i got after 12-13 hours on the tip test...............i had the cardboard tilted some, so im assuming only a drip or two and it ran down the cardboard some...........i put my finger on the rear of the pan, it just a little oil on my finger...............i followed the instructions, just rtv in the cornors............not sure how to proceed from here...............other option is cut the rubber off the one piece gasket and put a piece of cork in the groove in the main cap...........idk if that is gonna work either............this is very frustrating................summer is very long in wisc, i guess im writing off this year..........

One possible thing, and i dont know if this work either, smear some right stuff all around the back of the pan....................another thing, dont know if it matters or not, i put in 8qts of oil to make sure everything was covered in back.

Rich

[mgarblik]

I would try to find the exact leak exit point and go from there. Pontiac engines are extremely difficult to make 100% leak free. Not to say it can't be done, but a stray drip here and there seems to have always been part of the joy of ownership. There are design features that encourage oil leaks. A giant oil pan with way too few fasteners, same with valve covers. A huge rear seal area with generally poor concentricity of the bore and variable depth. They are tough. Even the one piece rear seal isn't really. They had to cut a seam in order to install. If you find the leak is the pan seam, brake clean it out and blow dry with air, then gently fill with RTV. Rear main, not much you can do. The tip test is an unnatural test for an oil leak. Oil is not normally covering the entire rear main area with the engine not running. The lip style seals tend to work best when the crankshaft is turning and the crankcase has a slight vacuum in it. I would evaluate and retest.

[steve25]

The last test I would do would be to duct tape off one valve cover oil filler and the PCV valve hole in the valley pan and then pump some compressed air in to try and get things above 14.7 psi ( Atmosphere) like maybe up to 20.

You don’t want to blow out any gaskets so don’t top 20 psi.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Imagine a marginal rear seal with a good PCV systems and properly select cam for vacuum.

Now, imagine a marginal rear seal experiencing crankcase blowby under acceleration. LoL

[BILL BOWMAN1]

A couple drops overnight is not the end of the world. Personally I would run it. The rear main is not completely submerged under operating conditions. You could spend however long pulling your hair out trying to make this thing leak proof on a stand. Once the motor is fired, who knows what could happen, then hot and cold cycles.

[chuckies76ta]

Originally Posted by gtorich

Well, i was hoping for the best, but this is what i got after 12-13 hours on the tip test...............i had the cardboard tilted some, so im assuming only a drip or two and it ran down the cardboard some...........i put my finger on the rear of the pan, it just a little oil on my finger...............i followed the instructions, just rtv in the cornors............not sure how to proceed from here...............other option is cut the rubber off the one piece gasket and put a piece of cork in the groove in the main cap...........idk if that is gonna work either............this is very frustrating................summer is very long in wisc, i guess im writing off this year..........

One possible thing, and i dont know if this work either, smear some right stuff all around the back of the pan....................another thing, dont know if it matters or not, i put in 8qts of oil to make sure everything was covered in back.

Rich

So you used the BOP one piece gasket right with the rubber at the back? I've used the BOP gaskets on out IA2 block with a Canton pan and no leaks. But I made a spacer for the front timing cover to match up. I also applied sealer to the corners like you, but I also applied sealer to the rubber at the back of the oil pan. I sealed it to the block and the oil pan. I didn't want to take a chance on it being pushed out. So far it's been fine.



I do have lots of that cork gasket for the back if you want a slice of it, send me an email or P/M me.. No charge, just shipping cost. And I'll eat that if it isn't to high.

[Sirrotica]

Been working on Stratostreak engines over 50 years, and what Mike said is true, rarely will you find and Pontiac with zero seepage or drips. Old Harleys are the same way......LOL

I learned along time ago to be happy if a rear main, or rear pan seal doesn't leak, but expect it will down the road. It's just the nature of the design, and it's olds and buicks too, they all use the low tech rope style main seals. Striving for perfection will probably drive you crazy, and waste a ton of your time, and money, as you've already found out.

Having worked on olds and buicks too in dealerships I've replaced a ton of rope seals, and the success rate is probably about 50% that they'll be 100% dry, and that it will stay that way for more than 10.000 miles.

You can strive for perfection, but be prepared for disappointment.

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

Been working on Stratostreak engines over 50 years, and what Mike said is true, rarely will you find and Pontiac with zero seepage or drips. Old Harleys are the same way......LOL

I learned along time ago to be happy if a rear main, or rear pan seal doesn't leak, but expect it will down the road. It's just the nature of the design, and it's olds and buicks too, they all use the low tech rope style main seals. Striving for perfection will probably drive you crazy, and waste a ton of your time, and money, as you've already found out.

Having worked on olds and buicks too in dealerships I've replaced a ton of rope seals, and the success rate is probably about 50% that they'll be 100% dry, and that it will stay that way for more than 10.000 miles.

You can strive for perfection, but be prepared for disappointment.

I hear ya loud and clear brother.........lol............i let it hang another 7 hrs, another leak about the size of the first one..........im assuming one or two drops and it makes a little more of a mess going down the cardboard.

Im draining the oil now, thinking of doing what mike suggested..............only other option is cut the rubber off the cap, and put a cork in the groove..........or put it all back and goop that thing up............that was my original plan, but i thought lets try what the instructions say...............3rd option is get a 1/16 cork and glue that to the cap or on top of the rubber itself.............4th option is ditch the one piece.............put cork all around and goop that up and put the 1/4 cork piece in the cap..............i do have that piece but it sticks up quite a bit out of the caps groove..............

Chuckies, thats for the offer, appreciate it................but i already ordered the single piece of cork from butlers with my oil priming tool........................priming tool thats a joke, i cant even get the oil pan on right.............lol

Im hoping i had too much oil in it. 8 qts, but i dont think thats the reason for the leak.....................to be continued.

Rich