[Chadmokc]

New Engine, no leaks with the engine on the dyno before install, less than 200 miles in car. Took it for a cruise today and noticed oil leaking in driveway when I got home. A constant steady drip with the engine running. Pulled the car over the storm shelter and got under there to find a mess under the car. After cleaning and then starting the car and climbing under there, I saw it dripping from this hole in the rear u section of the oil pan. Thought for sure it would be main seal at first but then saw this was the culprit.

My question is, without removing the engine can I... clean and jb weld hole shut or some sort of permatex product or similar sealant? What is this hole and the 2 grooves on each side of it (those grooves aren't leaking) the grooves look to have gasket material squished out of them and the hole looks to have only part of the gasket material covering it.

I included pics from my car and a generic pic of a similar oil pan showing the hole and grooves from the other side.

This is a bad leak not just a nuisance leak, probably a quart lost in 10 minutes with engine running if I let it sit and idle.

[shaker455]

Looks like your builder may have not used the cork gasket to seal the pan properly.

Looks like the wrong black rubber gasket or some silicone

When I build a motor I give it a tilt test.

Pick it up with a crane while on the engine stand & tilt it back for awhile & check for what your seeing now.

[Chadmokc]

Gaskets were supplied by me from Tin Indian Performance. Yes not cork. Also 23 pulls on the engine dyno I thought would have revealed this.

[shaker455]

Wicked sorry Chad....got pics from when pan was installed?
You running a PCV?

[77 TRASHCAN]

Chad, was it a one piece oil pan gasket???

It's a cluster to work on in the car, and NOT safe, engine needs to come out.....

[Chadmokc]

No pics from install.

It's a multi piece gasket.

Solid valley pan. Just running vented oil fill on one side and breather with hose attached on valve covers

[78w72]

that is the older style rubber "U" ring for the rear of the pan, NOTORIOUS for leaking. only proper fix is to replace with the cork gasket. SD sells them for $10. you can try to clean it out real good & apply some ultra black over that hole & tighten up the pan bolts some, but it would be a miracle if that stopped it, it the ridge on the gasket itslef that folds over & creates the leak. do you have the rear metal corner bars for the pan?

i had the exact same leak on my new engine, thought it was the rear main & had the my engine builder replace it (after pulling the engine), he used another new felpro pan gasket with the rubber 'u" & it leaked even worse than the first time, which i did the pan myself on, i got about 50 miles on the car the first time with my pan install before it leaked, got barely 10 seconds the 2nd time on his pan install... at least i can say i did it better than a professional!

so after the 2 time leaking & pulling the engine a 2nd time, i used the cork gasket with proper amounts of ultra black sealant, been dry even since for 3-4 dyno pulls some drag strip runs & 1000+ miles. the rubber rear gasket is worthless IMO & best bet is just pull the engine & use the cork rear "u", it will be harder to do it in the car & might not get the best results upside down... but if you have a pit that might be a little easier. heres a link from mr pbody on how to do the pan with the cork rear.

http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/Sealit.html

[shaker455]

Originally Posted by Chadmokc

No pics from install.

It's a multi piece gasket.

Solid valley pan. Just running vented oil fill on one side and breather with hose attached on valve covers

I would suggest a Tomahawk valley pan and run a PCV

See if the leak stops

Give Tim Corcoran a shout

[Chadmokc]

I have no intent of trying to replace the pan gasket on the rear with the engine in the car. I have no doubt a cork gasket would be my best bet. I have full access to a complete shop with a cherry picker, 2 post lift and everything I could ever need to work on this car. The problem I have is no time 😄 1 baby now and recent news we are pregnant with baby 2. I just wondered if it could be jb Welded shut or soldered or brazed closed and try something in the car that may work or fail and then have to take out the engine.

[shaker455]

Originally Posted by Chadmokc

I have no intent of trying to replace the pan gasket on the rear with the engine in the car. I have no doubt a cork gasket would be my best bet. I have full access to a complete shop with a cherry picker, 2 post lift and everything I could ever need to work on this car. The problem I have is no time �� 1 baby now and recent news we are pregnant with baby 2. I just wondered if it could be jb Welded shut or soldered or brazed closed and try something in the car that may work or fail and then have to take out the engine.

Valley pan

[Chadmokc]

Originally Posted by shaker455

Valley pan

Relieving pressure would stop a leak that bad? That is definitely an easier job than pulling the engine and wrestling those dang headers again.

I was so frustrated when I saw that leak I wanted to get the mig welder out and put a tack weld over the hole. Thought I better ask around on here first for any advice

[Chris65LeMans]

If you lost a quart at idle in 10 minutes, I don't think there's any way you can avoid pulling the engine and fixing that gasket.

[b-man]

Originally Posted by Chris65LeMans

If you lost a quart at idle in 10 minutes, I don't think there's any way you can avoid pulling the engine and fixing that gasket.

Agreed, that's a monster oil leak.

Pony up the $50 for a BOP one-piece gasket.

You'll eliminate that leak for good and sleep well.

[lust4speed]

The only positive way to fix the leak is to remove the pan. from the time element and the successful dyno runs, it seems the gasket pushed out of the way. Looks like the rubber nubs were cut off? That might have been part of the problem why the gasket was able to move.

Anyway, as a temporary stop-gap measure it might be interesting to spray the area inside the hole with brake clean until you are pretty sure most the oil residue is gone. I've had pretty good luck with normal Ultra Gray, but have also used a newer Permatex product on rearends with good results. The product is supposedly made to hold up better to oils. If the area just inside that hole were oil free, there's a fair chance that the repair could be permanent. Might be worth the five or six dollar gamble.

[ta man]

Been there a couple times..those rubber gaskets don't work well,especially with a no PCV valve.I make my own gasket now 3/16 inch thick half inch wide cork seals up great.

[shaker455]

Originally Posted by Chadmokc

Relieving pressure would stop a leak that bad? That is definitely an easier job than pulling the engine and wrestling those dang headers again.

I was so frustrated when I saw that leak I wanted to get the mig welder out and put a tack weld over the hole. Thought I better ask around on here first for any advice

Are you really loosing 1Qt after 10 mins ?

If you are then you have no choice to drop the pan or pull it & reseal.

Get yourself a real valley pan with a PCV before you put it back together

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by b-man

Agreed, that's a monster oil leak.

Pony up the $50 for a BOP one-piece gasket.

You'll eliminate that leak for good and sleep well.

I used the BOP one, and used a light bead of clear silicone on top, n bottom. Find out in a week when we fire it on dyno.

[pfilean]

I was so frustrated when I saw that leak I wanted to get the mig welder out and put a tack weld over the hole.

Surely the heat from welding or brazing would screw up whatever little value the present gasket has. Bite the bullet and pull the engine. Good luck getting time before the second kid arrives.

[77 TRASHCAN]

There's 2 different style rubber rear pan seals. One has one lip, and is the worst, and The 3 lip seal is apparently not much better. Screaming Chief had a neat picture of how he glues the cork seal into the main cap. He made some small pieces of sheet metal that hold the cork in place while the glue is drying. The sheet metal pieces are held in place by the end 2 oil pan bolts...

The one piece oil pan gasket would be better....

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by b-man

Agreed, that's a monster oil leak.

Pony up the $50 for a BOP one-piece gasket.

You'll eliminate that leak for good and sleep well.

X 2 !!