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Old 05-22-2015, 01:12 PM
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torqjunki torqjunki is offline
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Default Interesting cooling observation

First summer with the new engine and watching temps close as the outside temps climb. With the stock block, I ran a 180 thermostat and the car stayed 180-185 with a 7 blade flex fan. This IA 2 is running 190-195 with same thermostat. Tried the stock fan with Hayden clutch just to see how it would do and it was same as old set up running a little hotter at cruise speeds. I still have the aluminum 4 core radiator and suspect that I am not getting enough frontal air through it. I was driving about 45-50 mph and dropped the trans in neutral and let it coast to stop. The temp rose really fast and was at 200 by the time I came to stop. This was surprising. I expected the combination of the car moving into the air and the engine idling and under no load to reduce water temp some and it was just the opposite. Now thinking not enough water flow from pump. Thoughts anyone??

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1971 Base Firebird..505ci IA 2A Round port E-heads by Butler 348 cfm.. Comp street SR 266/272@.050 Victor intake/Quick Fuel Q950. 1 7/8" Dougs headers..3" mandrel bent exhaust with Hooker Max Flow mufflers, T-350 well built with 10" 4000 stall nitrous Continental converter..3.73 posi . Caltracs and 10" slicks. Belt driven water pump, alternator, Pwr steering and brakes,Flex fan. 11:1compression, straight 93 octane pump fuel. 10.35 @ 129.88 with 1.45 60ft N/A at 3700lbs race weight.
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:33 PM
Goatracer1 Goatracer1 is offline
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Correct plates behind pump? Time for new belt?

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Old 05-28-2015, 03:20 AM
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lust4speed lust4speed is offline
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I've never found that additional air flow while moving that some say should be there - always suspected that a high pressure area is built up under the engine while moving that effectively blocks much of the air movement. My clutch fan engages as much at 70 as it does at 30.

New engine is going to be tight and create more heat until things settle in. My main focus would probably be on timing since running a few degrees retarded will heat things up pretty good.

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Old 05-28-2015, 11:19 PM
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torqjunki torqjunki is offline
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Everything seems up to par. Verified temps with infared. Flex fan back on and temps around 190 during day. Not bad at all, but would like to run the fan/clutch set up. Gonna re-check the pump plate clearance and ditch the 4 row radiator for a 2 row. Got a 1st gen front spoiler that I am going to attempt to modify to fit the car and test.

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1971 Base Firebird..505ci IA 2A Round port E-heads by Butler 348 cfm.. Comp street SR 266/272@.050 Victor intake/Quick Fuel Q950. 1 7/8" Dougs headers..3" mandrel bent exhaust with Hooker Max Flow mufflers, T-350 well built with 10" 4000 stall nitrous Continental converter..3.73 posi . Caltracs and 10" slicks. Belt driven water pump, alternator, Pwr steering and brakes,Flex fan. 11:1compression, straight 93 octane pump fuel. 10.35 @ 129.88 with 1.45 60ft N/A at 3700lbs race weight.
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Old 06-11-2015, 03:34 PM
Schurkey Schurkey is offline
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Do you have all the original-style engine compartment seals? The back of the hood must be sealed to the cowl, for example.

If air is coming in backwards from the rear of the hood, you'll get less flow through the radiator.

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Old 06-18-2015, 12:36 AM
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torqjunki torqjunki is offline
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I do not have the seal at rear of hood. I'll get one. It has been really hot and humid here. With the flex fan I'm staying at 190 deg. Not bad at all. I think the fan clutch that I have on a factory fan is faulty. It is a Hayden heavy duty. At some point I need to replace it and give that set up another try.

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1971 Base Firebird..505ci IA 2A Round port E-heads by Butler 348 cfm.. Comp street SR 266/272@.050 Victor intake/Quick Fuel Q950. 1 7/8" Dougs headers..3" mandrel bent exhaust with Hooker Max Flow mufflers, T-350 well built with 10" 4000 stall nitrous Continental converter..3.73 posi . Caltracs and 10" slicks. Belt driven water pump, alternator, Pwr steering and brakes,Flex fan. 11:1compression, straight 93 octane pump fuel. 10.35 @ 129.88 with 1.45 60ft N/A at 3700lbs race weight.
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Old 06-19-2015, 08:44 AM
Zimtok Zimtok is offline
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When you do your "coasting test" keep the engine RPM the same. If you were cruising at 2,000 RPM then keep it there till you stop.

If the engine stays cooler keeping it at the higher RPM then it is just a water flow problem. Lower RPM will flow less water and the engine will heat up.

Did you know that an engine will get hotter just after you turn it off because the water pump is not moving the water to dissipate the heat.


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