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#21
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John - I have not personally seen the Daytona valve; however from sketches on their website it would appear that they acquired the rights to the old Parker Brothers valve.
The Parker Brothers valve had a trapezoidal neopreme wafer that was inserted into a machined cavity in the plunger, and it was impossible for the wafer to lodge cross-wise in the seat. I used thousands of the Parker Brother valves with no issues. I even had Paul custom-make some larger orifice valves for the AFB Carters. From memory, they are 0.111. This is a totally different valve than the old Tomco "Duro 7" valve. EDIT: A picture is worth how many words? http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Duro-7_valve.jpg http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Par...hers_valve.jpg I have shown two views of the plunger on the Parker Brothers valve; one showing the encased neopreme wafer, the other from the side. It is the separate wafer on the Duro-7 valve which can lodge. Jon.
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"Good carburetion is fuelish hot air". "The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one given to you by your neighbor". If you truly believe that "one size fits all" try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes! Owner of The Carburetor Shop, LLC (of Missouri). Current caretaker of the remains of Stromberg Caburetor, and custodian of the existing Carter and Kingston carburetor drawings. Last edited by carbking; 07-02-2018 at 02:58 PM. |
#22
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Les,
What was the final result? Did you fix the problem? Quote:
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#23
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No final result yet. Still have the end carbs off, without a resolution. Driving with the center carb only right now. The car is not running quite right and I need to get it running better before putting it back together.
Haven't had much time to spend on it lately as I've had some medical problems and minor surgery. Also need some cooler weather to spend time in the garage. Thanks all for the replies. I will let you know when I finally get it resolved. Les |
#24
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Quote:
John |
#25
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Ok, I have been reading this thread and have to ask.
I’m not a carburetor specialist, but i have rebuilt my 66 Tri-Power carbs twice in the 28 years I’ve owned the car. Absolutely no issues with the stock needle and seat. My question is this ...... were the Pontiac service departments overwhelmed back in the day with all the Tri-powers coming in with needle and seat problems? Just curious of the gentleman that my have witnessed this? BTW, lm running what’s close to the octane they used 50+ years ago and a good fuel filter. Chris.
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1) 65 GTO Survivor. 43,440 Original Miles. “Factory” Mayfair Maize Paint with Black Pinstripe, Black Cordova Top, Black Interior, OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Purchased from the Lady that bought it new. Baltimore Built (11A). 2) 66 GTO Survivor. “Factory” Cameo Ivory Paint with Red Pinstripe, Red Interior. OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Tri-Power (OEM Vacuum Linkage), Automatic "YR" code (1759 Produced). Fremont Built (01B), with the Rare 614 Option. |
#26
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Not to my knowledge- and I've been a Pontiac fan a little longer than Tri-Powers have existed. (see my post #18)
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Anybody else on this planet campaign a M/T hemi Pontiac for eleven seasons? ... or has built a record breaking DOHC hemi four cylinder Pontiac? ... or has driven a couple laps of Nuerburgring with Tri-Power Pontiac power?(back in 1967) |
#27
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I would agree with Jack's #18 post. IMO on the vast majority of carbs I've rebuilt or restored I could have probably just reused the needles and seats. I replaced them only because of the ethanol currently in the fuel we have and fear that the tips on the needles would start to melt or degrade and not seal.
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#28
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My last report indicated that I was running with just the center carburetor. A friend (retired mechanic) was visiting the day I received my rebuild kit for the center carb. He insisted on rebuilding the carb for me. After that was done, he looked at the distributor and found some issues that bothered him. He found the wire to the coil with cracked insulation, loose condenser, and the point set with a warped base plate. (New from NAPA) After replacing all that, we test drove the car and found it running very well.
Of course he violated his cardinal rule of not working on two thingss , so we don't know which was the cause of the poor running condition After driving the car that way for a while, I thought it was time to tackle the end carbs. I had acquired used OEM brass floats and standard type needle/seat sets with 0.086” orifice (as suggested by Kenth) for the end carbs. After installing them, I test drove the car. And found it running well with no gas leaks or flooding. Thanks for all who made suggestions and comments. It gave me a lot of info to sift through, and in the end it was successful. |
#29
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I have no where near the expertise that 3 or 4 gentlemen here have on carburetors. I give my two cents worth anyway. No one mentioned your use of composite floats and the fact that they are tested for replacement by weighing them. If they become saturated with fuel they sink too low and your adjustment is way off. I personally avoid their use. I have used the Grosse Jets in an 3 carb Amal set up and a Quadrajet. I was amazed how they smoothed out the idle. I would use them again in a tripower if I had them. I believe excess fuel pressure is probably the culprit in a lot of flooding or hot start problems. The factory air conditioned 65 GTO's have a return to the tank line and used the fuel filter type with a return spigot on the top. It has a 180 degree looped steel line that redirects the hose back down to the frame crossmember where the inlet line comes through. The return line is right beside the feed line and it returns to the fuel tank. In your situation, I would get brass floats, a fuel pressure regulator, and be sure I had a good fuel filter on there. Good luck in fixing your carbs.
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