[ventura7211]

Originally Posted by BILTIT

I finally switched my welder over to a smaller diameter wire, should make the welding alittle easier. This thin metal isnt the funnest stuff to weld.

.023 wire and 100s and 100s of spot welds. Then you can grind them down and hit them with a flap wheel to smooth it all out. The will leave a base with several "cracks and craters" from how the spot welds were spaced out. I then like to lay down several short beads, spacing apart as I go. Then re-grind, flap wheel, and hit with a sanding disc.





I think its worth the time.

[BILTIT]

Ya, thats what i was trying but with 0.030 wire. Smaller wire should help for sure.

Is that a 187 hobart? I am using a miller 180.

Does the cell have to have a perimeter cage so to speak? The instructions say not to use the tabs alone.

[ventura7211]

Originally Posted by BILTIT

Ya, thats what i was trying but with 0.030 wire. Smaller wire should help for sure.

Is that a 187 hobart? I am using a miller 180.

Hobart 140, it works better on the thin stuff then my 210. Using my TIG would be ideal, but I don't want to spend an hour on a weld I'm going to grind down anyway, lol.

Originally Posted by BILTIT

Does the cell have to have a perimeter cage so to speak? The instructions say not to use the tabs alone.

The instructions say not to use the tabs, 95% of the ones you see are being held by just the tabs, lol. I would bend some flat strap to go over the cell and the tabs to bolt through the floor pan. You could add another piece of strap to the bottom side to "sandwich" it all together.

[BILTIT]

Cool, thanks.

[69f bird]

Here's a 5 gal cell in my '73 Ventura

[BILTIT]

What did you do to the trunk floor for a flat mounting surface?

[BILTIT]

Finished up the frame notch on the drivers side. This one went much better and i am happy with it. I extended the notch about 2'' inches on the front. I may go back and do this to the other side if needed.

[BILTIT]

Couple more, going to tackle the tubs next.

[BILTIT]

Well hello! I am not dead and the car is not done yet but i am gearing up to get it finished. Been a busy couple years and i miss my car.

Also got these in the mail today! A kick in the pants to get the car back on the road for sure!

I should have my truck finished up in 3-4 weeks and then car all winter.


They are SD KRE 305 cfm setup for roller cam, will be buying that later this winter.

[SergeF]

Good seeing you posting! How you been? Did you get Pontiac motor in a truck yet?
What headers are planning to run in Ventura with KRE heads?

[BILTIT]

Hey, i sold the truck so no pontiac in that one. Bought a 91 dodge diesel, 10x times the truck my old chevy was. It works much better for towing.



Also bought a boat with 455pontiac in it.




Been busy but dedicating the winter to get my projects caught up.

Planning on using my hooker S-comps with the heads for now.

[BILTIT]

So just a little delayed with this project but it is my main focus this winter. I really want my car back!!!!

I will be updating once i get started later this year.

[BILTIT]

Finally getting back to this poorly neglected project. Sorry for those who were watching and interested. Really hoping to get it back on the street this summer but lots of things to do so we will see.

Made some progress with the tubs.




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[BILTIT]

Going to try and figure out the spring mounts this weekend. Moving both ends inside frame rails. I want to get this thing back on wheels so I can atleast roll it around the shop if needed (boat needs to come in for some minor engine work in June). If anyone has some good mount ideas especially for the front spring perches I am all ears. I have been researching but looks like making them is what most are doing.


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[Rob B]

I just finished up the mini tub (used DSE tubs and frame ties), Complete new floor, replace the trunk, and a ton of other things to the car. Now its in the finalizing the body and start painting everything and re-assembling.
I switched to sliders in the rear instead of offset hangers. I did a bunch of research on mini tubbing and this seemed to be the best and easiest way to go. You do not need to relocate the front perches unless your doing something totally extreme with tire size, the spring pocket has enough room to allow the front mount to move around a little to adjust to the rear of the frame being brought in. You are limited to the notching of the frame rail anyway.
I made my own slider mounts that weld in on the inside of the frame rail where the shackle use to be. Sliders will also give you the ability to adjust the ride height in the rear also. I currently have the springs back in the car and will be putting the reared over the weekend. I'll post some pictures of the mounts in a little bit.

[BILTIT]

Pics would be great. I am doing sliders aswell. I did a quick mockup of spring and tire last night and it sure doesn't look like it will fit but i will try a better mockup tonight.

I am fitting a 28x13.5-15.

[Rob B]

Originally Posted by BILTIT

Pics would be great. I am doing sliders aswell. I did a quick mockup of spring and tire last night and it sure doesn't look like it will fit but i will try a better mockup tonight.

I am fitting a 28x13.5-15.

I think the max you'll get under the car with a stock notched frame rail is a 12" tire. The tub doesn't limit you, the rail does.

[Rob B]

This is the picts from fitting up the tires under the car so I can measure for the new rearend. I hung bob strings down from the inside of the wheel well so I can make sure I won't have any clearance issues and place the tires exactly where I wanted them. i bolted old axles to the rims then put a piece of tube in the middle connecting them so I could get an accurate axle flange to axle flange measurement. My tire size is 29.5x10.5x15 Stiffwalls. Rims are 15x10 with 6.5" backspacing. Use to run 29.5x9x15 prior to the mini tub.

[BILTIT]

Depends how deep you want to stuff it i guess.

First pic is max stuff of a 28x13.5 and 2nd pic is what i am shooting for (maybe not that deep). Worst case i get narrower tires.

I was planning the same thing to get my flange to flange measurement.

[Rob B]

The crucial tire measurement is the section width not the advertised tire size. Kind of like A 10.5W is not 10.5" wide. Not sure if the size you are using is the actual width. MT's ET streets size don't always match what they really are.
With mine all done and tires and rims bought, I could squeeze a true 11.5, maybe 12" tire under it BUT it would be really tight and a potential rub'r. My car was fine with the 9" tires but wanted to get a little more tire under it with everything else I'm doing or did to the car.
My flange to flange came in within a .25 of what Moser says they use for a standard with X body and that was what I was expecting. I tweaked the width exactly as needed for the rims I'm using. I'll find out tomorrow if all my measurements were correct when I trial fit it in with the brakes and everything set up.