[BILTIT]

Ya true, i have never really measured the section width.

I need to give Moser a call soon and get some info. What did they say the F-F would be? Is it based on your rim BS or just a general they use? I am running 15x10 5.5BS.

I think i am going to use the Moser disc brake setup in the rear.

[Rob B]

Originally Posted by BILTIT

Ya true, i have never really measured the section width.

I need to give Moser a call soon and get some info. What did they say the F-F would be? Is it based on your rim BS or just a general they use? I am running 15x10 5.5BS.

I think i am going to use the Moser disc brake setup in the rear.

59 3/4" is the width they use for a stock X body housing, OUTER axle flange to outer axle flange. That is the measurement they want from you. Basically the back of the mounting surface of your rim to rim. They will also need to adjust for the thickness of whatever brake your going to use but you need to let them know when ordering. I have Aerospace disks, the rotor hat is .25" thick so they take that in consideration when building your housing.
Using a 5.5" backspace, your housing will need to be around 2" shorter each side than the stock width based upon what I came up with mine and from all the other mini tub threads I read all over the internet.
Mosers brakes aren't cheap so you may want to look at others available for about $100 or more less (US Funds). I went with Aerospace components because thats what I already had for the front and didn't want two different brands on the car.
I will say Moser's complete rear ends are top notch, quality pieces. The one I just bought for mine is the 2nd one I've had them build for me. I went with a Dana over the 12 bolt. Its only 20lbs heavier than the 12 bolt without brakes from what they told me and I'll never kill it.

[Rob B]

If you have 2 old or stock axles your not going to use anymore, bolt those to your rims.
Put each tire and axle on 2 separate floor jacks and roll them under the car into the wheel house. Take a piece of mild steel pipe in a diameter that you can slide both axles into (1 1/2" pipe) and do just that under the car. From there, you can position your tires and rims exactly where you want them in the house, using the the floor jacks to fine tune everything. Once you have them where you want them, tack the axles to the pipe so nothing can move then measure from the outside of the axle flanges. Depending on your rims, you might be able to leave the tires on and everything still under the car. I'll look on my camera to see if I took a picture of this setup when I did mine. Works outs perfect.

[BILTIT]

Yup i have old axles, that's exactly what i was thinking. I just need to pick up some pipe.

I have some wheel dollies that will work great.

The moser economy brake kit is 350USD, all the other kits i see are pretty much race only (i do a lot of street driving).

I didn't think 350 was too bad but i might have to check some other stuff out.

It might be easiest to use them for measurements too though. Might get them to make me a driveshaft aswell, not sure yet. Going to 1350 yokes/joints on each end.

I had looked at their full rear diffs but decided the 8.5 should work for me. Hopefully i don't pop it.

What housing ends are you running?

They told me to run the 10/12 bolt special ends which use the ford 9" bearing.

http://www.moserengineering.com/othe...lip-axles.html

[Rob B]

I would suggest going with their 12 bolt housing/complete rearend over an 8.5. The extra money spent would be well worth it in the long run, especially if you ever decide to sell it or want to put more power to it. Gears and other stuff are in most cases cheaper for the 12 bolt anyway and readily available.
Once you go thru the expense of shortening your housing, putting different ends on it for C-clip eliminators etc etc, a few bucks more gets you a brand new 12 bolt housing with thats not 40 years old. 10 bolt stuff is hard to find and sell, 12 bolt isn't.

I forgot about Moser's economy brake system, probably similar to what Inline, Right stuff, Summit sells.
My Dana (as well as the 12 bolt I had built for the wifes car) has the big Ford (torino) ends. Thats the most common one used and is popular with all the aftermarket brake kits.

You can't go wrong over building your rearend. Spend the extra cash once so you hopefully won't have to do it again. At some point, you'll want to pick up the power level and why not already have that part of the car done, squared away, and ready for the extra power you throw at it.

[BILTIT]

Did some mockup and measurements, getting a F-F of 55". How does this compare to yours?

It is tight, these pics are with it stuffed in pretty good and i have about 1/2" on each side of the tire. I could trim out some of the inner lip on the outer quarter panel as it reduces the clearence on the outside of the tire a fair bit.

[Rob B]

With my rims and tires mounted with my jig, I believe I ended up with 59.25" F to F with about 1.125" placing the tires roughly where I wanted them. Thats a half an inch shorter than what they (Moser) use as a stock width. The hat on the Aerospace Component brakes are .25 thick so that deducts another .5 off the measurement putting me at 58.75". I then decided I wanted another .25" clearance from the outside of the quarter since I had plenty of room on the back side for security clearance. That made the rear I ordered being 58.5" from flange to flange. I didn't get it all mounted up over the weekend to test fit the tires but I did get it set in and lined up. Just need to mark the tubes and make a few adjustments before I bolt it in place. Just going to put a small tack weld to keep it from moving until I set the pinion angle. Cant do that until I get the rest of the driveline in and resting on the ground. That will happen in the next couple of weeks.

[BILTIT]

Axles and brakes are ordered!!

Now onto building some spring mounts.

[BILTIT]

A look at toms differentials carrier bearing cap upgrade. It comes with larger 1/2" bolts aswell.




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[BILTIT]

Axles and brakes showed up.


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[Rob B]

Looking good!
Painted mine last week and aligned the rear up under the car, fits perfect, just how I wanted it to sit! I have it bolted in place but haven't welded the perches on yet until I get the driveline in so I can adjust the pinion angle first. Don't want to have to shim it. Its been a longer journey in my mini-tubbing but its finally paying off. Hope to have it all back together by the first week in July.

[BILTIT]

Awesome!!

Are you reusing the stock perches or other?


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[Rob B]

Originally Posted by BILTIT

Awesome!!

Are you reusing the stock perches or other?


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Bought new ones for like $6 a piece from Speedway Motors when I bought my sliders for the rear shackle replacement.

[BILTIT]

Slowly but surely, measured out perfect woohoo!! (including the brake rotor thickness)




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[BILTIT]

A more better pic ;P and some measurements from stock to moser axles.

[BILTIT]

All welded up! Four day weekend ahead of me to get this sucker back in.


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[BILTIT]

Getting close to install.


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[BILTIT]

On it's wheels for the first time in 5 years!! Sitting 1.5" high in the rear due to my temporary mount. Need to lower the front aswell.



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[BILTIT]

Well the ventura is on the backburner for a few weeks now, brought in the boat to make a few changes before its time for holidays at the lake!

[Rob B]

So where are you at now with it?