[stobin]

I run a 255/45/18 front on 8.5" wheel, and a 285/45/18 rear on a 10" wheel. The spring rates wont make any difference regarding the ride height. You can set that with the coil-overs. I dont run a coil-over in the rear yet, just standard springs that are about 1" lower than stock. There are some pictures of the car on my profile. I never ran the springs too low, so there was more room to lower it if I wanted to.

[cdrookie]

stobin

[stobin]

I finally dedicated a full day to the car. Most of what I got done was boring little detail stuff, but it is the little details that make certain projects stand out. I was able to run all of my fuel line and battery cable through the boxed frame rail. I only plan a short run of hose in the rail, then connect the braided line to -8 stainless hard line for both pick up and return. The Racetronix fuel pump harness I am re-using is also completly hidden inside the entire frame rail from back to front. I drilled two small access holes to feed the harness into the frame. Both holes allow the harness to pop out directly next to the alternator in front, and fuel tank harness in back. I also had to tap the access holes in the front suspension pocket to mount the custom upper A-arm bump stops. I am using 10 point stainless ARP stainless fasteners for a clean look. See pictures.

[77 Canamman]

Beautiful work!

[rohrt]

Its the little details I focus on the most when looking at my car and others. Something as simple as what kind of bolt was used here, shoulder bolt, hex nut, allen head ect. Or how was the wiring run and finished off.

Love the work and the build.

[stobin]

This weekend is dedicated to getting the remainder of the front suspension, brakes and steering finished. I bolted up the Lee Manufacturing 12:1 quick ratio steering box. This is the same box I had on the car prior to taking apart....again. I painted all the tie rods, center link, etc with Eastwood Spray Gray which has a nice cast metal look. Bolted up the Baer 13" brakes which I was running before. Not exotic, but very effective with the hydroboost set up. Tomorrow the wheels and tires are going back on so I can officially have a rolling chassis. After that the brake lines and fuel lines are next.

[stobin]

I received the Speartech wiring harness today. It uses the E-38 computer and the pedal assembly for the DBW throttle body. I asked John to build it with the upgraded black mesh loom which looks terrific. I plan to start installation this weekend.

[stobin]

I am starting to get the fuel system under way. The Aeromotive fuel filter is placed on the rear crossmember above the rear differential. This is were I had it placed before with the Pontiac motor. I will be installing -8 from the tank to te filter and continue the -8 to the modified LS7 fuel rail, and a -8 return line from the regulator. I will be placing the regulator directly off the filter this time around instead of at the motor to keep the firewall free of clutter. This will also keep the return line short, and keep the fuel from heating up. I also painted and installed my new rear springs from Coil Spring Specialties. I increased the rate from 135 lbs. to 175 lbs. and lowered the rear another 1/2". I will stick with the traditional rear set up until I can afford the rear coil-overs. I am hoping to roll the frame out of the garage this weekend after the fuel and brake lines are done so I can get some good outside pictures to post.

[stobin]

Today I finally had a chance to roll the chassis out of the garage and get some good outdoor pictures. Yesterday I had the entire fuel and brake lines built by Mike Swan. Mike is a mobile tech specializes in fuel systems, brake systems, and electrical. I wanted to tackle the stainless hard line myself, but trying to learn on stainless would get expensive, and I don't have the tube bending and flair tool. Mike built the fuel system with -8 stainless, and 3/16" for the brakes. He did a great job, and came to my house to do the work.

[stobin]

A few more.

[stobin]

Here are some fuel system pictures. -8 stainless feed and return. Just some extra insurance if I ever decide to make more power in the future. The regulator is mounted in the rear and allows me to have a very short return line which will keep the fuel from heating up. The black hose is Russell Blacklite and hooks to -8 fittings on the pickup.

[stobin]

One of the things I had Mike do is modify the factory LS7 fuel rail I am using. I had him weld a -8 adapter to the feed line, and modify the rear of the rail to accept a fuel pressure gauge. If anyone is interested in using Mike Swan for their project, you can contact him at 714-642-4773, or electricswan@aol.com.

[Chief Wanabee]

Stobin, you might be interested in this Oracle Lights product for your restomod. It's a 7" round sealed beam direct replacement headlight, with a LED "halo" around the outside.

The attached is a snip from their online catalog

www.oraclelights.com

[stobin]

They look cool, but some of these bulbs look very different than the stock ones, especially if they are flat faced. If they are round like the factoy ones, I would be intersted. I bet there expensive though.

[stobin]

I am posting a video of the progress I have made on my 1973 Grand Am Pro-Touring project.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfitwnPF4GQ

[Formulabruce]

Nice!! quick question. Why didnt Global West install the upper the upper A arms with some shims. If you need a camber adjust, you may need an offset upper arm. Just curious. With those wide tires I sure would want the alignment dead nuts. Now that I think about it, I wonder if the alignment isnt tweeked for those tires?

[stobin]

I actually installed the upper arms without the shims. I know that they will need to be added when I get the car on the road and get the alignment, but just decided to leave them off for now.

[gthmcty1]

Just checked out your video and you have done a beautiful job on this build looking forward to the firing of the car!! Keep up the good work!!

[stobin]

Thank you for the feedback. I am getting real itchy to get the motor in the car soon. The body goes back on the frame in July, and the motor and trans will go in on the same day with the help of a few friends. I will post more video and pictures of that as well.

[gthmcty1]

Originally Posted by stobin

Thank you for the feedback. I am getting real itchy to get the motor in the car soon. The body goes back on the frame in July, and the motor and trans will go in on the same day with the help of a few friends. I will post more video and pictures of that as well.

AWESOME!! I recently sold my 67 Chevelle that was similar (Pro-touring style) to yours and now I am itching to build something else lol...aren't we always?