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Old 09-14-2020, 10:20 PM
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Default 81 TA rear disc issues

I have done a search but I can't seem to find the same problem. I basically did a full brake job on this thing including front to rear lines, there was tons wrong but I wont get into that.
Everything got bled, the pedal is super firm. The left rear caliper flexed real good upon pressure, The right rear was not flexing quite as much but still decent. I drove the car a bit and it stopped pretty good but wanted to test those "pesky" rear calipers with the parking brake on. In neutral you can push the car no sweat with the parking brake on. I did replace the rear cables. I assume from what I read during my search is that I did not clock the calipers correctly. Is there a procedure from the factory for this? Any other tips on how to adjust the actual cable? What gets adjusted first? Thank you

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Old 09-15-2020, 01:38 PM
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I found a decent you tube video.

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Old 09-15-2020, 01:38 PM
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It helped...but not quite there.

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Old 09-15-2020, 05:44 PM
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We used to take the E brake arm off and use a wrench to turn out the shaft to tighten the pads to the rotor. IIrc it takes a 9/16 wrench. then put the arm back on. Sometimes, not always we would have to grind the arm slightly to get the arm back on with the pads tight. No matter what method you use, when working properly it is imperative that you exercise the E brake on a regular basis. Its the ratcheting piston that seizes and and causes problems. Over the years I collected about 8 or 10 sets of rear disc set ups for future use but I would not use that system on a bet. The S10 set up works 10 times better, cheaper and parts are readily available.

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Old 09-15-2020, 06:42 PM
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Set the parking brake over and over they should self ratchet in.

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Old 09-15-2020, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ta man View Post
Set the parking brake over and over they should self ratchet in.
In theory this is correct but sometimes they won't grab the tooth.

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Old 09-15-2020, 09:31 PM
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Thanks fellas. On the video I watched the guy moved the lever a little and the pads grabbed the rotor in the vise. So tonight I took the caliper off and tried it and it never grabbed the rotor. I guess you gotta have fluid in it? Well I guess I'll throw the one back on tomorrow, rebleed it, try adjusting by the arm and the parking brake. I did only try the parking brake twice.
I dont necessarily have to run this set up but I have a few hundred bucks into and this car is gonna be real close to stock. Any other thoughts?

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Old 09-16-2020, 09:55 PM
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OK.... I reinstalled the caliper on the right, re bled it quick and started adjusting. So if you have your head under the car looking at the caliper and you spin that nut with a 9/16 wrench counter clockwise it will lock the caliper on the rotor. But this is not the way the cable pulls... did the guy who remanufactured the caliper install the worm gear the wrong way? Kind of at a loss here.

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Old 09-16-2020, 11:02 PM
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Yeah I may be a dumbass, but tomorrow is another day. I either got two right calipers or I switched them somehow.

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Old 09-17-2020, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankieT/A View Post
In theory this is correct but sometimes they won't grab the tooth.

I've had the same experiences, and share the same sentiments. I'd rather have drums than that 79-81 rear-disc system.

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Old 09-17-2020, 04:40 PM
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There is a different thread worm gear for each side. Older ones had an L or a R stamped in them . Newer ones do not. The ratchet is often the issue with these calipers and freeze up-yes even in "new rebuilt" calipers. I think I have a copy of adjustment procedure but using the lever or a wrench to ratchet it tight. Sometimes using the wrench the worm will try and suck down inside if you do not have a nut/washer on the outside to prevent it.

You also need to watch and see it actually releases when the lever moves back to disengage.

My 78 and "81 both have good working sets on. But having a lifetime warranty on the caliper is a good idea

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Old 09-17-2020, 05:46 PM
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Best thing is to ratchet them dry, before bleeding - and whenever you shut off the car, engage the parking brake.



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Old 09-17-2020, 06:25 PM
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That looks like my old worn sheet!

I also think personally I have had better luck using silicone DOT5 fluid keeping them ratcheting and no "spongy pedal" some people complain about.

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1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever!
1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand
1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project
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1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project
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Old 09-17-2020, 06:43 PM
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It may have been, somebody sent us a copy - we tuck it in our lever/bracket kits we sell for the calipers.

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Old 09-17-2020, 07:00 PM
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I think I got it in one of my rebuilt calipers years ago. But it makes it simple.

FWIW if you ever have them adjusted on the parking brake to actually hold the car at idle they probably won't completely release! One state inspection guy would actually do that test so I would tighten them and then as soon as I got home back it off a hair so I would not smell brake pads!

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1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project
2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4
1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project
1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs
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Old 09-17-2020, 07:46 PM
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They do not have an L or an R on the studs. Visually with the brackets off is there a difference in the caliper? I believe I may have two left driver side calipers. I tools pics of how this looked before I did it. The driver side did not have the e brake hooked up and the bleeder was on the bottom. I actually have 3 calipers. One I bought on eBay kind of on accident. I’ll post a pic. FWIW. I did drive the car and the pedal was not spongy.

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Old 09-17-2020, 07:48 PM
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Here’s the pic of the calipers I got.
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Old 09-18-2020, 01:21 PM
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Both side calipers have the same casting they just use a different actuator/piston as dirvers side is in front of axle so levers pull a different dirction toward mounting holes vs away from holes on passenger side.

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1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand
1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project
2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4
1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project
1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs
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Old 09-19-2020, 11:53 AM
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Thank you!! I had to buy calipers with no core in the beginning. So I took the old ones apart. I see now. All of what was wrote above makes perfect sense now. I drained the new calipers and adjusted them on the bench. All is good now... I think. Gonna do a little exhaust next and I should be doing donuts in the next couple days.

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