Tri-Power Tech 57-66 Tri-Power Talk

          
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  #1  
Old 07-01-2010, 12:40 PM
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coyzstze coyzstze is offline
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Default Tri-power install

Hello.

It's been a couple decades since I've replaced an intake manifold. So I was wondering if anyone had any advice to make this transition seamless.

I have a 1965 GTO with a 455 (1970 heads; 1972 block). The old intake + 4bbl carb were removed last night.

I recently purchased a tri-power unit from Mike Wasson (which is beautiful btw) and I am wanting to put this on my 455. I also purchased a small body distributor that needs to replace my current HEI distributor.

Is it best to take the hood off my car to install the tri-power unit and distributor? The tri-power unit weighs 60lbs. Which is pretty heavy when your arms are fully extended. Should I put anything on the intake gaskets to prevent them from sliding off while the unit is being aligned?

Thanks for any tips/advice you can provide!

  #2  
Old 07-01-2010, 12:55 PM
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vidguy vidguy is offline
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I did this with the Hood on in my 67. It is heavy.... but I put a moving blanket on the Radiator cowl area, rested the intake there in the right position. I got into the car sorta, and sat on the passenger fender well and had one foot on the front sway bar sorta (Its been 6-7 years now) Then you lift it holding it in front and in back best you can over to the block.. I think I put my forearms on the valve cover or my left knee and sorta leveraged that.. ?
-You should put the intake gaskets on first with the little plastic keepers to keep it from sliding..
-Then snug/tighten the long bolt that pulls the intake to the timing cover first.
-Make sure to put in the rubber washer/o-ring in between the intake and the Timing Cover
I used a tip from Wheelspin about putting a stainless washer behind it on one side with a dab of Permatex Ultra Grey to hold it. Makes it fit a tad tighter.

-Then get your bolts started but always once you get them started, fully tighten the front, LONG bolt first Then Torque the intake bolts.

Not sure what to recommend about sealers etc... But I used a little Ultra Grey around the round water passages only.
HTH

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  #3  
Old 07-01-2010, 12:57 PM
jime1 jime1 is offline
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Taking the hood off is probably overkill...you may need to raise it a bit, however.

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Old 07-01-2010, 12:59 PM
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coyzstze coyzstze is offline
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Thanks for the advice!

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Old 07-01-2010, 01:02 PM
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coyzstze coyzstze is offline
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My old intake gaskets seemed to be in good condition when I removed my old intake. I'm assuming it's always a good idea to replace them though - considering they are only $15.

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Old 07-01-2010, 01:22 PM
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BVR421 BVR421 is offline
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New TriPower! Im envious.

save your back, get a friend or spouse to help lift that heavy @#$%& 2 sets of hands equal joking around instead of cursing

Make use of the funny little plastic orange washers in the gasket kit, they will hold the gaskets in place on the heads
Look for the recesses around the front and back bolt holes on the heads, stick plastic nibs there.
No need to overtighten long water bolt. Its tempting cuz we dont want a leak but if its compressed it should be ok. get it snug first with other manifold bolts finger tight

I reuse gaskets all the time, even head gaskets. Seldom a problem but I would never say someone else should do that. Use your own best judgment.


Last edited by BVR421; 07-01-2010 at 01:29 PM.
  #7  
Old 07-01-2010, 01:39 PM
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Vidguy jpretty much summed it up. If worried about the intake weight, get a buddy to help. Don't take the hood off!!! Only thing I woujld add is that I like to put a small amount of anti-sieze grease on the long thin bolt that ties the intake to the timing cover. These like to rust and break off. Go easy, take your time, and have fun. You will love the tripower, guaranteed. They are reliable, economical, and look and sound great.

  #8  
Old 07-01-2010, 01:45 PM
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Sounds pretty straight forward. Thanks for all of your help!

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Old 07-01-2010, 10:22 PM
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Taking off the hood only invites paint scratches. You'll probably need a buddy for that anyway so use him to help with the manifold. You probably won't need him though. I managed myself a couple of years ago and I was 68 at the time. Probably did about what vidguy suggests. I was surprised that the manifold was worse that the heads. I sure wouldn't use my wife as some have suggested. It would take more time to explain what I needed than to do it myself.

  #10  
Old 07-02-2010, 02:49 PM
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No need to pull the hood. It is a lot easier to wrestle it in without the carbs and linkages on it......

That's how I did it until I got an aluminum manifold.

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  #11  
Old 07-02-2010, 03:10 PM
MandevilleBird MandevilleBird is offline
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I like to use gasket-cinch to install the intake gaskets on the heads. They won't move once stuck into place. You can then install the intake and move for positioning without fear of gasket misalignment.

  #12  
Old 07-02-2010, 11:50 PM
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65FATCAT 65FATCAT is offline
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I added trips to my 389 and i think it's much, much easier and safer for paint, back whatever to install the manifold without the carbs, better to line everything up perfectly especially if you have to move it around a little once it's on the engine, it takes all of 10 minutes to reinstall the carbs on the intake, big deal and you don't need a helper at all.

I use painters tape all over the place to protect things and temporarily secure things, it works great to tape over the carb holes in the manifold so nothing falls down in there and of course remove as needed when installing one carb at a time.

I take it you've already accounted for your vacuum sources?


Last edited by 65FATCAT; 07-02-2010 at 11:59 PM.
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