The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum

          
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  #1  
Old 10-06-2001, 10:12 AM
buzzojoe buzzojoe is offline
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Location: Niles, Mi, USA
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I am restoring a 68 goat convertible.
When I got it it had been sitting for a year or so and the battery was
COMPLETELY dead.
It wouldn't take a charge at all.
Not a big deal I thought, so I bought a new battery for it.
The problem that I am having is that when the car sits, the battery drains
and goes completely dead over the period of a few days.
It's not blowing any fuses, and the wiring looks pretty good throughout the
car. The dome lights are not staying on.
If I charge the battery it will stay up for a day or so, so it has to be a
fairly low drawing thing.
I have tried several batteries, so it's not a bad new battery.
Any ideas as to where to start?
Any known "culprits" for things like this?
Someone suggested a bad voltage regulator that is keeping a "tickle" wire
connected.
Thanks in advance for ANY suggestions!
Keith

  #2  
Old 10-06-2001, 10:12 AM
buzzojoe buzzojoe is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Niles, Mi, USA
Posts: 253
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I am restoring a 68 goat convertible.
When I got it it had been sitting for a year or so and the battery was
COMPLETELY dead.
It wouldn't take a charge at all.
Not a big deal I thought, so I bought a new battery for it.
The problem that I am having is that when the car sits, the battery drains
and goes completely dead over the period of a few days.
It's not blowing any fuses, and the wiring looks pretty good throughout the
car. The dome lights are not staying on.
If I charge the battery it will stay up for a day or so, so it has to be a
fairly low drawing thing.
I have tried several batteries, so it's not a bad new battery.
Any ideas as to where to start?
Any known "culprits" for things like this?
Someone suggested a bad voltage regulator that is keeping a "tickle" wire
connected.
Thanks in advance for ANY suggestions!
Keith

  #3  
Old 10-06-2001, 11:51 AM
John F Tary John F Tary is offline
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Location: Haddam, Ct. USA
Posts: 78
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I don't know what is draining your battery but if you get a battery disconnect switch at least you won't run your battery down all the time.Try Summit Racing p/n SUM-1439 switch @ $14.95.I have several cars that are in storage and you just engage the switch when you start the car,it also works to prevent someone from stealing your car.Good luck. J.Tary.

  #4  
Old 10-06-2001, 12:40 PM
buzzojoe buzzojoe is offline
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Location: Niles, Mi, USA
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I thought of that,but obviously there is a problem somewhere that will eventually get worse. I don't want to have a fire or meltdown on the road (or in my garage).
I am disconnecting the battery now when I park it, but I want to fix the problem also.
Thanks!
Keith

  #5  
Old 10-06-2001, 01:24 PM
Txbobcat Txbobcat is offline
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Location: crowley,texas
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I agree you need to find the problem and fix it. Hers how you can find out what circuit it is on. Buy a cheap voltmeter put it on amps. Put leads on both sides of the fuse and read how many amps if nothing is on there should be no draw so no amps . See what that fuse works and then you can track down the wires and I agree could be regulator just unplug it and see if that is problem. Trunk and hood lights are famous for this also Should be able to buy a tester for around $10 Good luck

  #6  
Old 10-06-2001, 11:35 PM
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Bud Lyons Bud Lyons is offline
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Joe, Start by disconnecting the + side of the Batt.
If you have a clock or a stereo with a memory disconnect them.

Take a voltage meter or a test lite. (I like analog meters better then digital) then read the voltage between the + lead and the + term. on the Batt. Without a short you should not get a reading.

If you read voltage start pulling fuses one at a time until you don't get a reading.

Now you will know what circuit is draining your Batt. Make sure your key is turned off.

Good luck and keep us posted.

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  #7  
Old 10-07-2001, 09:15 AM
Txbobcat Txbobcat is offline
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Did you find your problem yet I wasnt sure if you got my email or not which said to leave the fuses in place

  #8  
Old 10-07-2001, 09:32 AM
buzzojoe buzzojoe is offline
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I haven't had time to look into it yet. Damn leaves keep falling in the yard, and Mama wants them picked up!
I'll be driving a Cub Cadet, not a GTO this weekend!

  #9  
Old 10-07-2001, 03:06 PM
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TinInjun TinInjun is offline
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Txbobcat:
Put leads on both sides of the fuse and read how many amps if nothing is on there should be no draw so no amps<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

You will not read anything hooking up a multi-meter set on amps in this fashion. In order to read amps you have to wire it in series with the circuit, not parallel as described above. You must remove the fuse.

If it is your voltage regulator causing this problem you would probably see a very high charge on the battery at all times. Check to see what the battery voltage is when the car is running. The other thing to check would be the alternator. If the diode trio is shot, it can also slowly kill the battery as you describe.
One other thing to check would be to pull the automatic reseting circuit breaker that should be installed in the upper left hand corner of your fuse block. The other three fuses below this one are also on the hot battery buss. I would check to see if any of these circuits are drawing any current buy doing what Bud said, but set the meter on amps. Disconnect one circuit at a time until you see zero amp draw. Bingo you found the problem.



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