[2nd67GTO]

Just started the tear down of my 67 GTO tear down. I'm 3rd owner of the numbers matching car. Only things that have been replaced that I've found are the alternator, regulator, waterpump and mufflers. I've got complete PHS documenting the Power windows, A/C, Power Seat, Remote Mirror etc. Original sales contract, warranty and owners manual are with the procrastinating PO (semi local drag racing acquaintence, so I'll get them eventually). Reason for the history is the eventual goal is factorylike new driver for local shows and cruise nights.
The long and short of it is, after tear down of the heads, the valves, springs and a couple guides are shot (105,000 mile motor). I haven't disassembled the short block yet. IMHO, it's noteworthy that block, both heads and intake were all cast within 3 days of each other and 1 week of build date of car.

A solid valve job is obviously required. I would like to retain as much of the factory "correctness" as possible but want to land around the original 335 hp rating. To me, just the fact I can't run the stock cam or compression throws a correct rebuild out the window. I'm thinking just a sensible, stout, stock rebuild would be acceptable. After having to give up well over a full compression point (to enable to run pump gas), what would be considered acceptable for this rebuild? and still be considered correct?

My plan as it stands;
SS valves Intake and Exhaust
Comp 995 springs/retainers/locks
BBC Studs/locknuts
Hardened Valve Seats
KB +14cc Dished forged pistons
My reconditioned (assuming still serviceable) crank and rods.
068 Hydraulic flat tappet cam

Any thoughts?

Thanks for your input.

I'll be incommunicado until Sunday at the Hot Rod Reunion at Famoso. So any follow up will occur then. If anyone is heading that way, I'm the big guy on the pit crew of the Nostalgia Eliminator I 7990 altered. Pop into the pit and say hi. Come early, I don't think we can run the number. Normally run NEII.

Marshal

[Ron Landis]

you can drop the compression a bit with dished pistons and run a cam that will compliment this set-up with very little compromise. I'll bet 1050goat [ Dave Hillard] can rattle off the particulars. We're running both RA III and RA IV spec engines that he built. Plenty of pump gas power with fairly accurate exhaust note is easily attainable. What more do you need? Ron

[bammbam]

your plan is almost exactly like what I just did. the only difference is I had the rotating assembly balanced. Per my engine guy the compression ratio is now at 9.0 my goal was similar to yours, totally stock appearance, reliability and pump gas. I fired the engine 2 weeks ago for the first time but still need to do some fine tuning on the carb (poor idle)

[2nd67GTO]

Thanks for the replies guys. After talking with a couple Pontiac machinists at the drags, I'll get the heads and some mild bowl work done first before I decide on piston configuration. Depending on where they cc at after unshrouding etc. I'll go with the Speed Pro +6 cc 4 valve relief flat top forged if the heads cc at 77 or better, I should be able to use the flat tops at .010 from deck. If under the 77 ccs, I'll run the KB +14 cc dished at zero deck. A balanced rotating assembly is mandatory. My engine guy is the same one who does our 850 hp small block race engine and insists on balancing, line honing and a bunch of other machinist things I don't fully understand.

Ron, I'll drop 1050 a note and see what I can learn. Thanks for the tip.

BammBam, good luck with the tuning on that new powerplant.

Marshal

[bammbam]

for what it's worth, i was told there wasn't enough meat in the 670 heads to lower the CR enough. I'm sure there are a lot of opinions and ideas out there, i learned that the hard way. it is hard to separate fact from fiction unless you have someone you can really trust. I had to build my engine three times because of incompetence of one guy....a pontiac engine expert with 25 yrs experience. More like 25 yrs in the business with 1 yr experience. How do they survive...