Non Pontiac Motors in Pontiacs includes factory 403,305,350 Chevy, Buick V6,
Also Pontiac Motors in non-Pontiacs!

          
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  #81  
Old 11-24-2009, 10:03 PM
fbrown fbrown is offline
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I would assume my 4L70E is equipped with a truck bellhousing since I requested that it be be spec'd out like a Trail Blazer SS trans. Does this one pictured below look like a truck bellhousing?
My bellhousing didn't look anything like the one in your picture, only 4 of the bolt holes were usable. The part number also matched some truck, I don't remember which one. Your picture looks like the Camaro bellhousing

Here is a picture of the bellhousing that shipped with my transmission.



In any event I don't think the generic transmission tube and dipstick I have will work with you transmission either. However if you want to buy it PM me.

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  #82  
Old 11-27-2009, 01:16 PM
Nicks67GTO Nicks67GTO is offline
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Originally Posted by Donovan View Post
Nice work FB!

The above was a perfectly articulate and civilized response to someone expressing sour grapes. It would be nice if folks could relax a bit and appreciate hardwork for what it is.
Man oh man. Maybe I shouldnt even bring up the fact that im seriously considering transplanting a 6.0 LS and a Richmond 5 speed into my #'s matching 67' H.O. GTO for the exact same reasons. I want to set the original engine/tranny aside so i dont hurt them and the LS engines will basically outperform traditional pontiac engines in every category for a fraction of the cost. Sorry but 450 hp, 25 MPG highway, a stock idle, and driveability out of a junk yard 6.0 sounds pretty sweet to me.

I say its much better to have one restored and modified than it is to just let them sit and rot. Seriously, i used to think the other way, but then it occurred to me one day..... all they are is a pile of sheet metal and in 100 years no one is going to care so screw it.

Long live your LS swap!!

  #83  
Old 11-27-2009, 02:31 PM
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Old Goat 67 Old Goat 67 is offline
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AND, you won't around then to give a rat's ass.

  #84  
Old 11-28-2009, 11:10 AM
marxjunk marxjunk is offline
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Originally Posted by Nicks67GTO View Post
Man oh man. Maybe I shouldnt even bring up the fact that im seriously considering transplanting a 6.0 LS and a Richmond 5 speed into my #'s matching 67' H.O. GTO for the exact same reasons.Long live your LS swap!!
Rethink the richmond...it wont take the power/torque...i have one behind a supercharged 6.0 HO and its broke twice..only 6 lbs of boost...in a 68 tempest...they arent rated very high for abuse...more like stock cruiser stuff..i remember years and years ago everyone raved about the 5 speed...now they seem to be pretty week...just an opinion...

  #85  
Old 11-28-2009, 06:18 PM
Nicks67GTO Nicks67GTO is offline
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Originally Posted by marxjunk View Post
Rethink the richmond...it wont take the power/torque...i have one behind a supercharged 6.0 HO and its broke twice..only 6 lbs of boost...in a 68 tempest...they arent rated very high for abuse...more like stock cruiser stuff..i remember years and years ago everyone raved about the 5 speed...now they seem to be pretty week...just an opinion...
Im going to have to respectfully disagree. I had that Richmond 5 behind a 7500 RPM, 500hp small block chevy for 8 years without an issue. It probably had 100+ official runs at the track on slicks and probably 500 "unofficial" runs on the interstate or blacktop.

  #86  
Old 11-28-2009, 08:52 PM
Joe RKD Joe RKD is offline
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Guys,

I love this thread-- I just scored a 68 lemans convertible and am dreaming up a plan to do something like modern drive train with a classic look-- I ran across this 69 judge recreation at tripower Nats this year @ Norwalk--I attached a few pix-- check out the custom wheels, hood and rear end---
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  #87  
Old 11-28-2009, 09:01 PM
Joe RKD Joe RKD is offline
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Your project is awesome dude-- I am dreaming one up also-- just scored a 68 lemans convertible-- I want an old looking modern car-- check out these 69 pix of a car I saw at 09 tripower nats--- it is made by big 3 performance in green bay-- wangers judge recreation---
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  #88  
Old 12-01-2009, 01:47 AM
Rockcrusher Rockcrusher is offline
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I just read thru all the pages of this post and want to tell you, nice job!
IMO, and that's all it is, you have done a great job.
As far as putting a "non-period correct" engine in our car, I have NO problem with that.
I have a #'s matching 68 GTO and I put a 468 chevy big block in it.
I have my #'s WT engine stored away for safe keeping in my garage, I wanted to have something that I could play with and not worry about throwing a rod thru the side of the block and destroying, and loosing what I can't replace.
Good luck with your build and ignore the "nay-sayers", YOUR name is on the title, enjoy your car!

  #89  
Old 12-01-2009, 02:13 AM
fbrown fbrown is offline
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More Body Work:

The rear window channel at the lower corner is so malformed, that I decided to make new sections. The driver side is shaped OK but is too deep and causes the quarter to sit too high. The Passenger side does not fit the window molding but was the correct depth.

Cutting Out the ill-formed part. I think I must be crazy to cut brand new metal but I can't see any other way to fix the problem.



Test fit of the patch.



Patch Installed.



Minor Rust at lower inner wheel well - Passenger Side



Patch installed.



Inner structure cleaned, ready to install outer wheel well and prime with epoxy primer.



This is a before picture - although its the other side, both sides looked about the same.




After priming the inner structure, I think I will spray some lizard skin on the inner structure and the inside of the quarter panel. This should help keep the car quiet.

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  #90  
Old 12-01-2009, 09:46 AM
nz049b nz049b is offline
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After reading the entire series of posts, I wanted to mention that you're doing an excellent job on the project! This type of resto-mod is quickly becoming one of the most popular for the hot rodding community today, so welcome to the club!

I'm starting my own project: 1969 lemans originally 2bbl 350, soon to be powered by an LQ9 6.0 H.O. from a 2004 Cadillac escalade. 345 HP truck motor. Going down the truck motor route presents it's own challenges (specifically hood clearance with the TALL intake manifold) but i'm hoping that I can fit it in because I would love to retain the better flow characteristics and torque that the truck intake manifolods produce.

I've got a few questions for you and one comment:

1) What type of fuel pump and regulator did you use? In-tank or out of the tank? I'm planning on purchasing a spectra premium tank w/integrated fuel pump & sender unit from rock auto but I'm interested in other options..

2) What are your thought patterns on your gauges (speedo, temp/oil press, etc) how are you going to run them?

3) Where did you get your frame mounts? I orderd my engine mount adapeters and Chevy style rummer motor mounts from Jeg's but that did not include frame mounts..

4) I know you're not at this point yet, but I would love to know what the clearance is from say the top of the valley pan cover to the top of the firewall (I'm trying to judge hood clearance for my tall intake manifold)

One comment: Make sure that (unless your overflow bottle has a provision) that you tie in the steam lines from the heads to either the water pump (drill and tap for nipple) or maybe back to your overflow bottle...

This is a great project! Keep the updates coming!!!



  #91  
Old 12-02-2009, 01:42 AM
fbrown fbrown is offline
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1) What type of fuel pump and regulator did you use? In-tank or out of the tank? I'm planning on purchasing a spectra premium tank w/integrated fuel pump & sender unit from rock auto but I'm interested in other options..
I used a Corvette regulator - ACDELCO GF822 GM 10299146

My tank was from Rick's HOT ROD Shop - I slected this one because it holds a couple of more gallons than the Spectra Tank, However the Spectra is much cheaper. Although not a good picture, here is where I mounted the regulator, I will run new lines after removing the body, however for now I am using the existing 3/8" fuel, 1/4" return for testing.



Quote:
2) What are your thought patterns on your gauges (speedo, temp/oil press, etc) how are you going to run them?
Keeping the 68 gauges

Speedo - ABBOTT CABLE X SPEEDOMETER VSS TO CABLE CONVERTER
Temp - still working on it - Plan on keeping factory guage
oil pressure - use a metric to npt adaptor - then use factory sending unit/guage
gen light - connects to alternator

Quote:
3) Where did you get your frame mounts? I orderd my engine mount adapeters and Chevy style rummer motor mounts from Jeg's but that did not include frame mounts..
Used Edelbrock LS conversion mounts, I ordered Chevy Frame mounts from Jegs
Transmission Mount - move x-member back, two holes will line up, you need to drill two holes.

Quote:
4) I know you're not at this point yet, but I would love to know what the clearance is from say the top of the valley pan cover to the top of the firewall (I'm trying to judge hood clearance for my tall intake manifold)
The engine is installed in its final place and is running. I have not installed the hood, but there is a huge space above the engine, I'm sure any super-charger would clear, what I can't tell you is how much space there is at the front of the engine, since the hood slopes down toward the front of the car. I measure 13" from the top of the valley cover to the top of the firewall.

Quote:
One comment: Make sure that (unless your overflow bottle has a provision) that you tie in the steam lines from the heads to either the water pump (drill and tap for nipple) or maybe back to your overflow bottle...
Technically I'm using a fill bottle that is pressurized, the steam vents connect directly to the fill tank. I placed the tank at the back of the engine compartment so it would be the highest point in the cooling system. I was unable to find a place at the front of the car that would keep the fill tank higher than the radiator. Ideally then radiator should also have a steam/air line connecting to the fill tank.

The top blue hose is the steam line. (I wish I could have found black Silicon hose)

A Corvette fill tank might have been easiler to use. This truck tank was difficult to mount.


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  #92  
Old 12-05-2009, 12:51 AM
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What are you going to do about the A/C issue?

You're car is going to be sick when it is done.

  #93  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:11 AM
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72LuxuryLeMansLa. 72LuxuryLeMansLa. is offline
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fbrown,

I am new to this Pontiac world and have been looking into the cost of building my 72 350 into 20mpg street toy that can push you back into the seat. The costs are prohibitive!!!
I am going to save my money for a GMPP crate motor and store my original motor. I am enjoying your project from La.
I hope you are on the road by spring.

Karl

  #94  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa. View Post
fbrown,

I am new to this Pontiac world and have been looking into the cost of building my 72 350 into 20mpg street toy that can push you back into the seat. The costs are prohibitive!!!
I am going to save my money for a GMPP crate motor and store my original motor. I am enjoying your project from La.
I hope you are on the road by spring.

Karl
Where and who have you been getting the prices from? Bet it's cheaper than that pos chevy crate engine unless someone is trying to rob you. I can build it for you andsave you some $

  #95  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by goquick View Post
Where and who have you been getting the prices from? Bet it's cheaper than that pos chevy crate engine unless someone is trying to rob you.
So, when are you going to prove to the forum members that you can build a cheaper and more powerful Pontiac engine that is just as fuel efficient and lightweight as one of these LS3 engines?

You came into my build thread claiming you could, and when I kindly asked you to provide the parts list and specs for such an engine you went away for over a month and never responded. After that I removed your posts in my thread, you were just going into my thread over and over to trash it and couldn't provide any backup to your claims.

Build a complete all-aluminum Pontiac V8 with a hydraulic roller cam and port EFI for less than $6200.

Tell us all how you can do it.

We're waiting.

  #96  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:28 AM
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B man, I had also moved during that time 700+ miles and did not have a computer. Now you want to trash me for my opinion of your ruining a Pontiac? Let's see, you've spent HOW MUCH to put that over rated pos in your car? A hell of alot more than 6200 !!! Get honest you now have at least 30k in your project. You will have a nice chevelle when it's done. But why did you remove all my post? Because you really didn't want to see the numbers.

  #97  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by goquick View Post
B man, I had also moved during that time 700+ miles and did not have a computer. Now you want to trash me for my opinion of your ruining a Pontiac? Let's see, you've spent HOW MUCH to put that over rated pos in your car? A hell of alot more than 6200 !!! Get honest you now have at least 30k in your project. You will have a nice chevelle when it's done. But why did you remove all my post? Because you really didn't want to see the numbers.
I have 31K in my project, and about 19K of that is for the engine and trans, fuel system, computer controls, etc. A bunch of money went into brakes, suspension and wheels and tires that all have zero to do with the LS3 engine install.

Most of the component costs are listed in my thread, I didn't cut any corners and bought all new parts.

Out of that 19K was a $6200 engine, a $450 oil pan, $620 headers and $1700 computer and wiring harness that controls both the engine and trans. A harness to run the engine alone would have cost about half that $1700. All of the fuel system parts and cooling system pieces would be needed no matter what EFI engine was going in the car.

I decided to install a 4L70E transmission that enables my car to have a lockup converter and cruise control, the trans was $2300 and the Yank lockup converter was $725. I also spent an extra $500 for a custom tailshaft that enabled me to keep a cable-driven speedo. None of this has anything to do with the LS3 engine either, I could have used a $500 TH400 and a $500 Continental converter that I already had.

Nobody's trashing your opinion, but you love to come into this forum making snide remarks. Your trashing posts were removed because you're just trying your best to turn these threads into a Chevy bash-fest.

Again, list up all the parts and the cost for your all-aluminum EFI hydraulic roller-cammed Pontiac engine.

Mine cost less than 8K, ready to bolt into the car.

Let's see your numbers. I did want to see your list of parts and prices, but you never responded to my very fair challenge. You came back into my thread several times since then, but never offered up any information just several remarks about my car being a nice Chevelle. How am I or anyone else here supposed to take you seriously?

List your parts and costs, include the labor to assemble it all complete and load it into a crate ready to ship.

  #98  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:40 AM
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The LS series motors are far from a "pos". LSx motors make tons of power and are still able to retain reliablity as well as good MPG.

  #99  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 1978 T/A View Post
The LS series motors are far from a "pos". LSx motors make tons of power and are still able to retain reliablity as well as good MPG.
I guess the 99 ls1 sitting in my driveway with the rod hanging out and it never seen 5500 rpm isn't a pos?

  #100  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by b-man View Post
I have 31K in my project, and about 19K of that is for the engine and trans, fuel system, computer controls, etc. A bunch of money went into brakes, suspension and wheels and tires that all have zero to do with the LS3 engine install.

Most of the component costs are listed in my thread, I didn't cut any corners and bought all new parts.

Out of that 19K was a $6200 engine, a $450 oil pan, $620 headers and $1700 computer and wiring harness that controls both the engine and trans. A harness to run the engine alone would have cost about half that $1700. All of the fuel system parts and cooling system pieces would be needed no matter what EFI engine was going in the car.

I decided to install a 4L70E transmission that enables my car to have a lockup converter and cruise control, the trans was $2300 and the Yank lockup converter was $725. I also spent an extra $500 for tailshaft that enabled me to keep a cable-driven speedo. None of this has anything to do with the LS3 engine either, I could have used a $500 TH400 and a $500 Continetal converter that I already had.

Nobody's trashing your opinion, but you love to come into this forum making snide remarks. Your trashing posts were removed because you're just trying your best to turn these threads into a Chevy bash-fest.

Again, list up all the parts and the cost for your all-aluminum EFI hydraulic roller-cammed Pontiac engine.

Mine cost less than 8K, ready to bolt into the car.

Let's see your numbers.

List your parts and costs, include the labor to assemble it all complete and load it into a crate ready to ship.



And for your 6200 I can build a Pontiac that will make more power and get just as good of mpg. Plus he wouldn't have to spend another 2770 just to try to get it in the car. pLUS UNLIKE WHAT YOU had TO DO he wouldn't have to spend the money for a transmission, extra money for an over rated efi (actuly an inferior system to a well prepped carb) But my combo would use an iron block, (factory production piece) and alum. heads. Now if you think the l;s3 is a great engine, then whatever, but I've built a couple of them and driven the cars they are in and frankly, I am not at all impressed with them.

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