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#1
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Horn or Horns?
Recently picked up a very originall 67 GTO. Did the 67 GTO come with dual horns? Mine has just one and its not working.
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TODD |
#2
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Dual Horns were standard on all models except Tempest.
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When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did, in his sleep. Not screaming like the passengers in his car. |
#3
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I like air horns particularly for low cars.
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#4
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After investigating mine were not plugged in. Still not working maybe replace relay next.
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TODD |
#5
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Unplug the hot wire at the horn and use a jumper from the battery to see if the horn works.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
#6
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I definitely wouldn't replace the relay without testing the horns or the voltage to them...90% of the time it's the horns themselves. They can be repaired fairly easily by the way.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#7
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Greg, any chance you know of any resources/info for repairing the horns? My low-tone horn works but is buzzy. I've heard reference of a bolt that allows you to adjust the diaphragm, but I'm not sure if this is true. I'm assuming my diaphragm is rusted out.
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
#8
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There is a screw on the back of every electric horn I know. Just grabbed this one at random
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#9
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The Horn Works in Wisconsin. He has restored two sets of horns for me.
https://www.carhornrestoration.com/index.html
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Ed 1968 GTO (Thanks Mom) 2006 Silverado 2007 Cadillac SRX 2015 Chevy Express |
The Following User Says Thank You to OG68 For This Useful Post: | ||
#10
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Quote:
Quote:
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
#11
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Yes, there is a tutorial online somewhere. I'll have to try to remember where I saw it but it's basically drilling the rivets out, separating the halves and thoroughly cleaning everything inside. It won't look totally factory but it will look pretty good when you put nylon insert lock nuts and screws on it and paint everything.
You tune that screw using an amp meter in series.... But it's no good if the contact inside is all corroded. I'm sure I can find it but I'm posting this on my phone and I believe I have the information on my laptop. The way they work is this.. there is a sheet metal diaphragm similar to a speaker cone with an electrical contact on it. There is a coil of wire near the cone.. when the horn relay applies voltage, the coil induces a magnetic field which pulls the cone and opens the contact. When the contact opens, the cone relaxes again and immediately makes contact again. This repeats at a high frequency over and over again causing a buzzing made by the sheet metal cone. The horn shape amplifies it. The adjustment screw allows you to tweak the mechanical movement of the cone to a sweet spot indicated by peaking the current draw. If you drill the rivets out and take it apart you'll see how it works.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia Last edited by Greg Reid; 10-07-2021 at 04:55 PM. |
#12
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I found a short thread from back when I did mine. I was wrong about peakng the current totally. There is a sweet spot though.. you basically only peak it to the point where the volume/sound starts degrading, then back off a little.
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...highlight=Horn
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#13
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Thanks Greg. Did you have to replace the diaphragm in your horns?
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
#14
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Irrelevant to the question. Pontiac doesn't have air horns.
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#15
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The information on a Window Sticker mentions “HORNS-DUAL” as standard equipment on a GTO.
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1) 65 GTO Survivor. 43,440 Original Miles. “Factory” Mayfair Maize Paint with Black Pinstripe, Black Cordova Top, Black Interior, OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Purchased from the Lady that bought it new. Baltimore Built (11A). 2) 66 GTO Survivor. “Factory” Cameo Ivory Paint with Red Pinstripe, Red Interior. OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Tri-Power (OEM Vacuum Linkage), Automatic "YR" code (1759 Produced). Fremont Built (01B), with the Rare 614 Option. |
#16
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No, l didn't have to replace anything except the rivet. Just clean the contact and all of the crud that winds up in them over time. Dirt, spiderwebs dead bugs, etc. It just needs to be able to move freely when it's exposed to the magnetic field.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#17
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I have seen an online guide to restoring the horns. I think it was on a corvette site…they also had a source for rivets to put it back together as I recall.
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#18
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I found an article that will suffice although it's not the exact article I used back then..He doesn't go into any detail about removing the rivets but I now recall that the ones in our horns are pretty heavy and swaged in place. I used a Dremel to grind the heads off IlRC...
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/198.cfm This reminded me also that I forgot to mention that there is a gasket between the two covers. I used rtv and this guy and the original article that I used did the same.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia Last edited by Greg Reid; 10-08-2021 at 02:03 PM. |
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