[68bird400HO]

Ahh...my brain is always on 71

[dataway]

I think they changed numerous things between 68 and 72 ... in 68 tie-rod adjusters I'm pretty sure were zinc plated ... other wise you wouldn't be able to turn them after a couple of years. And the cross shaft nuts were zinc plated in 68.

That's a sweet setup you have there ... I'm going to send you some stuff that needs treatment

[Cardo]

Subscribing. I stumbled across this thread.... I am getting ready to do my 65 Lemans resto, and was trying to figure out how to do all of my bolts. My car is from Florida, so things are not really pitted up just rusty. Excellent info, I appreciate everyone sharing here. I may have questions later though!

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

...After the coating I saturated them with Boeshield in a foil pan and keep them "wet" for 24 hours before wiping down.

I am looking for a rust-inhibiting oil/wax to use on phosphated parts and ran across this thread. I will search for this Boeshield, thanks for posting!

How is it holding up?

Revisiting this topic... maybe 10 yrs ago I used this product to blacken a bunch of fasteners. I had purchased a kit that included an oil, but it's now lost in space.



I don't know the chemistry but the bluing worked great, was done cold, and I was happy with it.

Unfortunately, it appears the company is gone so I can't buy the same oil. Here is a blurb with a link to a dead site... . Appears the company is gone or changed their web site.

http://www.ktgunsmith.com/rugged_gun_blue.htm

Since there are commercial specs for "phos & oil" finishes that include "wax", I figured there must be a source for something. The Boeshield sounds like a winner but I'm interested in other options.

Mike

[turbo69bird]

Boeshield is great stuff but check out zep comercial floor wax. People use it on RVs. I dunked a couple of raw steel blasted bolts in it and let them sit out to see if they’d rust and going on 2 years w no rust can’t even tell they’ve been dipped in anything.

Many people use it on RV exteriors for a shine like wax but I dint see any wax shine on the bolts. They just got slightly darker. I tested it for use on my boat hardware that’s rusting , that I used to use boeshield on but sometimes the boeshield would turn white over time maybe the salt water .


This this is the stuff I used.

https://www.amazon.com/zep-commercia.../dp/b001b1a9gm

[Shiny]

Thanks for the suggestion! I have seen others talk about that Zep product as an alternative to car wax on their RV. Some of them claim it holds a shine for over 2 years so must be a tough coating. Maybe more like an acrylic coating than an oil or wax?

[dataway]

I've become quite a fan of Zep products ... work great and are usually a fraction of the cost of other products.

[gtobird]

Originally Posted by 68ragtop

So I am starting to get myself a little confused....

So Parkerizing is the same as black oxide for a black finish.

Is phosphate magnesium also the same? The images I saw in the video above do not look like black oxide to me. more of a gray slate color?
they look close to the correct color for our hood hinges & maybe they are?

Palmetto sells both Manganese & Zinc.

the whole thing seemed simple to me until I dug a little too deep


Here's an image from 5 minutes into the video.

If you want to see some gray phosphate and black (magnesium) phosphated bolts I did a couple of years ago with the Palmetto solutions, you can stop by and see for yourself since I live just outside of Green Bay. I will also show you my setup that I made with a cheapo temperature controller, hotplate and some pvc tubing that holds the sensor in the solution. If you pm me with your email address, I'll send you a write up on it.

Old Joe

[Shiny]

After getting your responses and a healthy dose of online searching, I'd say a "best phosphating oil" thread would make "best cam" and "best motor oil" threads seem tame.

I decided to use WD-40 Specialist Rust Inhibitor (Link to Datasheet) on phosphated parts.

After seeing Cortec's vapor inhibitor technology and line of products I was impressed. I asked one of their sales reps for a recommendation for phosphated steel and he promoted their VpCI-369 (oily/thin) and VpCI-368 (waxy/thick) products, both containing proprietary VCI inhibitors. He suggested buying through "The Rust Store" (Link to The Rust Store), which carries a lot of reputable products.

Cortec backs up their products with this "motherload" of credible test results: Link to Cortec Competitive Test Report Library

I also believe that WD-40 Specialist Rust Inhibitor is actually Cortec 369. So these were on my short list.

I then stumbled across this online summary of a gun hobbyist's corrosion test. It was done well enought to clearly differentiate the performance of a VERY LARGE number of products: https://dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

Here's an image showing the range of performance in that summary:



In this test, the WD-40 Specialist Rust Inhibitor finished in the top 3, beating out Boeshield T9, CRC 3-36, CorrosionX, and many other good products.

I was going to order Cortec 369 but when I found the WD-40 product in stock at Home Depot for about $10, I was done.

There are obviously lots of products available to us that would work well as a phosphating oil but this WD-40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor seems a good value to me.

Mike

[gtobird]

Originally Posted by dataway

The bead blasting is a pain. The heads not so bad, but the threads are a pain. I wonder if a abrasive tumbler would work.

A few notes on this. Again, I used the Palmetto zinc phosphate and manganese phosphate. I tried a variety of things to prep bolts before phosphating and I also found the beadblasting to be tedious.

First off, I tried soaking the bolts in Evaporust for a few days. It did dissolve the rust, but they didn't phosphate properly. I then tried tumbling. Unfortunately, the tumbling still leaves microscopic particles of rust on the fasteners, so again, they didn't phosphate properly.

Yes, beadblasting did the trick. I found several ways to hold the bolts. I went to a Goodwill store and bought a deep fry basket for $3. It worked fine and is still holding together. The only problem is the high pressure air causes the fasteners to bounce around in the basket, so it takes a while before you get each and every fastener clean. I found that I had to examine them closely and then touch up some of them. I held them with a vice grip by the head (If it was a bolt), or screwed them into a nut and held the nut with a vice grip to get them as clean as I wanted. Later, I discouvered a much easier way to hold them firmly in mass. I went into my scrap wood pile and found some oak 2" x 1/4" trim pieces and cut them into lengths of about 18". I then drilled holes in them just small enough that the bolts would have to be snugly screwed into the wood. It worked great for me. You can screw them all the way in, hit the threads on one side of the wood and the head on the other. You them back them out a bit and hit the threads that were hidden by the wood.

With respect to using a sealer, I documented a set of test coupons that I had phosphated and coated with various things. After coating and sealing, I soaked them in a salt bath and compared them. I found that soaking them in Boe Shield and then coating them with RIG grease (used on firearms) gave me the best protection. You can buy RIG grease online or at Cabellas.

Old Joe

[dataway]

Same here ... only method I've found to properly prepare them is bead blasting.