[theoldone]

Originally Posted by Wade Congdon

The sizes are as Bob has stated and there is no plan for a 3.750 at this time. The 3.25 inch crank looks like it will be possible, but probably only in a 4.250 stroke.

A 3.75" stroke forged crank would be a great thing IMO

put that crank in an IA or MR block, use the wider bore, and make up the difference with a long connecting rod

even the Ford FE guys are finding out that destroking their old 427's is making more HP with a longer rod

[tom s]

Charlie,where do you think these forgings are coming from?LOL,Tom

[Brian Baker]

Originally Posted by theoldone

the factory cast cranks tend to develop cracks in the rod fillets after 2-3 years racing, making only 650 HP- and the factory cast cranks were actually VERY GOOD, being nodular iron- they had magnesium added to the mix to change the grain structure from flake to sphere shape

if/when these forged cranks become available, we can then throw away all the Chinese cast cranks where they belong- in the heap pile

Sorry, but I doubt you'll find any Pontiac enthusiast making less than 650 HP looking to spend $1000 on a crank.

And once again, another misinformed statement from Old "Chinese cranks suck" One.

[gjn]

Brian,

I know I am probably the minority; however, I will be purchasing a forged crank the next time I rebuild my stroker 461. I guesstimate that I am in the 470 hp to 480 hp range. If the crank is around a grand and it is proven (which it should be by time I rebuild my motor again), I will buy a forged crank.

[Brian Baker]

GJN, you are definately the exeption to the rule.

[02Hawk]

I will also pick one up when I do the next rebuild. Everything else is the best money can buy including the chinese crank that is in there now(no other choice last year). The second one BTW.Billet cranks last year were about 4500 Canadian and a years wait. I for one am glad that we were getting the chinese cranks as the chevy option was the only one left up here.

[tom s]

Wade said low teens so that in my mind means $1300 will be the cheapest price.That is about 4 times the amount for a cast crank.In a street car,might not make sense.Tom

[Tom McQueen]

$1300 isnt bad for a crank you can seriously lean on and sleep at night. The new Moldex billet I just got was double that. Given the choice, I would go for a forged crank if it was a proven piece and was available with the specs I wanted. Plus, the forgings will probably have a much shorter wait time once they are available.

[Tom Vaught]

You will not find too many forged cranks with lightning holes in the pins, double key-ways, full counter-weighting, a moldex oil system, and the other time intensive operations with great steel for $1300.00 either. LOL! Enjoy your crank Tom!

Tom V.

[Brian Baker]

I was told the projected retail will be $1050...we'll see.

[Wade Congdon]

Originally Posted by theoldone

A 3.75" stroke forged crank would be a great thing IMO

put that crank in an IA or MR block, use the wider bore, and make up the difference with a long connecting rod

even the Ford FE guys are finding out that destroking their old 427's is making more HP with a longer rod

Charlie,

I agree, however do to machining and die costs we have to work with a limted range of strokes and we felt these were the most viable. The 3.75 strokes are still available as RAV cranks peiodically and the demand is not overwhelming.

[Engo]

Wade Congdon.

When can we expect these crankshafts to be delivered?
I will order at least two but I need to know for sure when I can have them.

[WARPed]

I have been debating on de-stroking my 505 to a 446 with a 3.75 crank, with an 1800lb race weight I can afford the loss of torque.

Originally Posted by Wade Congdon

Charlie,

I agree, however do to machining and die costs we have to work with a limted range of strokes and we felt these were the most viable. The 3.75 strokes are still available as RAV cranks peiodically and the demand is not overwhelming.

[PONTIAC DUDE]

A 4" stroke with a 6.8 rod gives you a great rpm rod ratio and still have cu.in with a 4.350 bore.
I like that relationship in the 1.67/1.72 range. I feel rod ratios are often overlooked, wrong thinking or misused. Both higher and lower depending on application.
A great N/A or power adder/blower/turbo combo.

Build a few 454 .100 over with a stock stroke 454 crank that fly. That was a common BBC combo for many many years till the Merlin 4.500 blocks hit the market. Still buzz it 8000/8500 rpm all season long.
A lot of factors to consider with new products and you will never satisfy everyone.
I think they are marketing a crank in the right area. More percentage of 4" to 4.5" cranks to be sold and see a return on an investment. Like the current aftermarket cast cranks. By 90% I would think.
I see the 4.5 crank to be a big seller.
4.350 bore X 4.500 sroke = 535 cu.in. of Pure Pontiac Power.
I run it, I like it, and will last forever. Sorta the aftermarket 455 with a 4.250 crank most are running now.

Curious; Not tryng to stir sh*t, but Why go lower in stroke to a 3.75 with a Pontiac ???? Class rules ????

[JD]

I would say that class rules would be the primary reason. Out west we have a class called true street which requires either "Mickey Thompson ET Streets" or "Hoosier Quick Times".

Small blocks are anything under 434 CI and anything bigger is a big block, Pontiacs can be either. The minimum weight for small block with nitrous is 2950 and the minimum weight for a big block with nitrous is 3350. You can also use a two stage setup for small block but only a single stage for big blocks. From what I can tell traction is going to be the key factor in this class especially when you need to run 8.5 to 8.6 in quarter to be competative.

I would think running an IA2 with a 4.28" bore and a 3.75" stroke with KRE heads may be pretty competative. The key would be hitting 825 to 850 HP NA. This would be high RPM engine but there have been posts within the last week or two talking about similar engines that aready exist.

[PONTIAC DUDE]

I would use the 4" stroke with a 4.350 bore and add the weight where you want it. Unless your gonna run a turbo. Ray Cox runs that combo (Nitrous)into the high to mid 8's currently carrying that kind of weight. Are you allowed to use a progressive timer?
The ET streets are slicks basically and have seen BBC's run into the 7's with them. They already run 7.60's with M/T Drag radials and stock suspensions.
I run a 535 and have the smallest combo around here for the local stock supsension class. Most are 632's.

[JD]

That was the one thing I forgot to add, they do allow progressive controllers but no drag radials. At least not this year.

Thanks for the feedback on the ET Steets. Do you think 850 HP NA is good enough or would you shoot for more?

[455-4+1]

Dude

I was thinking more of class rules than cubic inch/lb restrictions with no restriction on cubes

We are limited to 412 CID by class rule hence the question if a 3.75" would be avaialble. I am not after a crank "just for me" but thought there would be more of a market for the 3.75" crank

Seems to be a few 400" stock and super stock class racers also. Would an aftermarket crank be legal in any of these classes ?????. "Cube for cube" is the 4" stroke going to make any more power than the 3.75" in a race application with factory iron heads ??? (or any heads for that matter). Thinking of restricted factory type classes here.

Although not a problem with my boat, the 3.75" is probably going to be alot easier to hook up in limited tyre classes or on marginal tracks

I think the reason the 400's do so well in cube restricted class racing is the fact that although we dont have a modern cast iron head the factory stuff with 2.11/1.77 valves vs the oppositions 2.02/1.6 dosnt fare to badly when other "brands" are restricted to factory cubes/heads

Is the RAV 3.75" crank a 3" main deal ???. If theres limited demand for them I supose they will be cheap ??? LOL Anyone have one for sale or any idea on price ??????

I will be running an early (N) 3.75" 350 crank in the boat so will see how that holds up first.

[JSAauto]

3.75 stroke with a big bore for Turbo engines would be a great combo.

Are these cranks going to be made in China or in the USA??

[quick67bird]

From what I have read they are forged in China, but finished over here.

Robert