#81  
Old 03-18-2012, 09:55 PM
Joel Koontz Joel Koontz is offline
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I did some online searching, but I did not come up with a good schematic to show the wiring. It sounds like the module might be the cause of your problem.

I can't confirm it is correct, but I found a post were someone said that they were able to use a 4th Gen Firebird Module with the 3rd Gen Headlights and wiring. If it is a module that you need, it may be easier to find a 4th Gen Module.

  #82  
Old 03-19-2012, 08:24 AM
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When I first cooked up this mod I experienced the same problem.

The picture below (clip from the TA wiring diagram) carries important information.

The input to turn the lights on and off needs to provide voltage for ON and ground for OFF. Simply floating or disconnecting the input will not close the doors.
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  #83  
Old 03-19-2012, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Koontz View Post
Torqhead, I feel certain that what I described in post #44 is how I wired mine and it is still working fine. I don't currently have easy access to my car so I can't confirm the wiring right now, but if needed, I may be able to do so within a few days.

Have you tested the motors without the module. IIRC power to one wire and ground to the other will run the motor one way and reversing the wires will make it run the other direction. If you test like this, just touch the power for an instant as you don't want to damage the motors by running them against the stops.
Thanks for the input, I'll pull the test and post what I find.

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Old 03-19-2012, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fyrebird68 View Post
When I first cooked up this mod I experienced the same problem.

The picture below (clip from the TA wiring diagram) carries important information.

The input to turn the lights on and off needs to provide voltage for ON and ground for OFF. Simply floating or disconnecting the input will not close the doors.
Bob, That's a huge piece of information!!! That's got to be the problem, glad I posted my question here. Hope it helps someone else too in the future. Thanks, Dave

  #85  
Old 03-19-2012, 12:27 PM
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Joel mentioned he couldn't find a diagram of the board, so I'll post this one. The scribbles are what I did to make the board work in the GTO.
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  #86  
Old 03-19-2012, 06:55 PM
Joel Koontz Joel Koontz is offline
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I just checked my car and the wires to the control module are connected as I described in post #44.

The 2 Orange wires connect through seperate 15 Amp Fuses to the battery(constant +12V)
The Black wire connects to ground.

The Yellow and Brown wires are connected together and then connect to the wire that feeds the Low Beam Headlights +12V when the lights are switched on. I think this wire also provides the ground(through the headlight filaments) when the headlight switch is off.

Bob, what do you have the module's Yellow and Brown wires to connected to on your car?

  #87  
Old 03-20-2012, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Koontz View Post
I just checked my car and the wires to the control module are connected as I described in post #44.

The 2 Orange wires connect through seperate 15 Amp Fuses to the battery(constant +12V)
The Black wire connects to ground.

The Yellow and Brown wires are connected together and then connect to the wire that feeds the Low Beam Headlights +12V when the lights are switched on. I think this wire also provides the ground (through the headlight filaments) when the headlight switch is off.

Bob, what do you have the module's Yellow and Brown wires to connected to on your car?
The yellow and brown wires are connected to each other and to the common side of the headlight dimmer switch (where the 12v from the headlight switch connects).

If you turn the headlights off (and the doors don't close) try grounding this wire. If the doors then close, you just need a better ground for the module to sense. You may try putting a resistor at this point on the controller box, tied to ground. Try a 1Kohm, 1W resistor.

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Last edited by fyrebird68; 03-20-2012 at 08:32 AM.
  #88  
Old 03-20-2012, 07:17 PM
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Default Hideaway assemblies - repop

I posted this in the body section, anyone seen this issue before?

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=693335

  #89  
Old 04-09-2012, 11:15 AM
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Default Slowing down the hideaway motors

I've seen in other post where comments were made about how fast these motors open and close the hideaway assembly. I too thought it was a little aggressive, so I searched out and got some feedback from George that's here on the board that seems to have a lot of knowledge.

I pulled some tests and my results were if you want to slow down the motors you will need to install 6 ohms (5 ohm and 1 ohm) worth of resistance into one of the wires that go from the control box to the motor. I used the green wire on each, but it shouldn't matter which one you use. I also used resistors that were rated for 10 watts. This made a significant difference in the speed. In my case if I went higher than 6 ohms the motors wouldn't run.

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Old 05-23-2012, 05:58 PM
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For those of you that may be interested I'm attaching a link to a video of the operation of my hideaway's. End result is I added a spring to slow down the travel when they are opening so the doors wouldn't slam so hard. I then had to change the resistance to apply a bit more power, basically I'm running 2 ohms now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-78eEvq2QM

  #91  
Old 05-23-2012, 08:12 PM
Joel Koontz Joel Koontz is offline
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Your modification does appear to make the movement less harsh.

I watched the video, but did not see the springs. What springs and where/how are they mounted.

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Old 05-24-2012, 09:13 AM
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Here's some snapshots, also I circled an adjuster (positive stop) that we added to enable getting the doors lined up with the grills much better than without them.
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  #93  
Old 05-14-2013, 12:20 AM
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I just bought a sweet 69' GTO but it has exposed head lights and I personally think the hide away lights look soo much better. I looked around for the parts I needed and couldn't find anything on line (Which is rare, you can find anything you want on here! lol) any help would be appreciated...

  #94  
Old 12-31-2013, 12:32 PM
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Default some more pics

I have the front bumper off to repaint it. While I had the headlight doors and grills out I took a couple of shots of the headlight motor mounting, since that is where I get the most questions. You can see the rectangular black steel plate holding the motor to the core support.
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  #95  
Old 03-07-2015, 09:33 AM
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I never paid that much attention to the Ames catalog until recently, due to the merger, and was surprised to find they offer a complete conversion kit to electric hide-a-ways. But there's no mention of it in this topic unless I missed it. Has anyone here purchased it and if so, how do you like it? It also says not for A/C cars? Kind of interested in this, would be nice to hear some feedback.

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RA-III, 4-SPD & A/C. Power Windows, Power Seat, Power Brakes, Steering, AM/FM, 8-Track, Formula Wheel, Rallye Gauges, Remote Mirror, Numbers Matching. Assembled at Pontiac, MI Plant 5/26/1970.

1968 GTO
461 CI, RA-III heads, Hotchkis springs, UMI suspension, Bilstein shocks, 12-bolt 3.73's.

1966 GTO Ragtop
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  #96  
Old 03-07-2015, 09:35 AM
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Oh may bad, I did find this from years ago....
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...7&postcount=31

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1970 GTO Judge
RA-III, 4-SPD & A/C. Power Windows, Power Seat, Power Brakes, Steering, AM/FM, 8-Track, Formula Wheel, Rallye Gauges, Remote Mirror, Numbers Matching. Assembled at Pontiac, MI Plant 5/26/1970.

1968 GTO
461 CI, RA-III heads, Hotchkis springs, UMI suspension, Bilstein shocks, 12-bolt 3.73's.

1966 GTO Ragtop
4-Speed, AM/FM, Original driveline.
  #97  
Old 04-30-2023, 03:32 PM
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Just read this thread and found this two motor kit on Jegs. Has anyone tried this system and if so how did it work???
Thanks for any input and or thoughts on direction.
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