[grivera]

I'm in the process of installing Vintage Air in my 69 Firebird and found the firewall insulation mat falling apart. Is it best to replace with a reproduction type mat:

https://www.firebirdcentral.com/Prod...2D483&CartID=1

Or is a product like Dynamat thermal insulator (or similar product) a better choice?

https://www.dynamat.com/products/dyn...tab=automotive

[Gary H]

Depends on the type of car restoration. If you're a purist and want the original appearance, then the OEM insulation pad is the way to go. If you don't mind a different look then the Dynamat is the better heat and sound deadener in my opinion

[grivera]

Thanks - No purist here just looking for best performance.

[goatwgn]

Put the dynamat down, then put the factory type over top of it.

[JLMounce]

Dynamat is not a heat insulator, it is a constrain layer only.

The Firewall is a fairly robust piece, so it's need for a constrain layer is less than the floor or roof. As goatwgn mentions above, for best results, add dynamat or any other constrain layer product, under the factory firewall pad. If you want to knock down some of the engine noise further, add some mass loaded vinyl.

The dynmat product stops sympathetic vibrations in the sheet metal. The firewall pad or other decoupling layer products like DEI Undercarpet Lite are your sound and heat insulating layer and the mass loaded vinyl absorbs free floating sound waves.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

Dynamat is not a heat insulator, it is a constrain layer only.

The Firewall is a fairly robust piece, so it's need for a constrain layer is less than the floor or roof. As goatwgn mentions above, for best results, add dynamat or any other constrain layer product, under the factory firewall pad. If you want to knock down some of the engine noise further, add some mass loaded vinyl.

The dynmat product stops sympathetic vibrations in the sheet metal. The firewall pad or other decoupling layer products like DEI Undercarpet Lite are your sound and heat insulating layer and the mass loaded vinyl absorbs free floating sound waves.

The product I posted is advertised as a thermal insulator: https://www.dynamat.com/products/dyn...tab=automotive

Appreciate the tips!

[JLMounce]

I didn't look at the link, just assumed you were talking specifically about dynamat, since it's a different product than dynaliner.

Yes dynaliner is a decoupling player product. It's a bit expensive compared to some other competitors. Ease of installation may be easier considering it comes with an adhesive backing. But if you don't mind using some basic automotive carpet adhesives, this stuff is quite a bit cheaper and does the same thing.

https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engine...07&sr=8-3&th=1

[RH68]

I used the 1/4” thick Dynaliner that you linked to. If you use the factory style insulation you will end up cutting about 1/2 of it away because it doesn’t fit behind the vintage air according to the instructions. I also used the dynaliner underneath the cowl above the firewall. That insulation was disintegrating on mine and was just held in by the plastic film over top of it. One other suggestion is to use the AC delete plate that Detroit Speed sells instead of the plate that comes with the vintage air kit. It looks much better.

[HWYSTR455]

The OE pad is crap, and not only is it a pain to install with a VA, it makes a mess.

You can use other vendor's plates, but why? The only real way to make it look nice is to use a smoothie plate, and that's more involved than just using the VA block off plate.

I used a smoothie plate on the GTO, used 'sidewalk' bolts so no bolt went thru the smoothie plate, laid dynamat, then dynaliner.

Now, to add to that, and to make it easier to install and service, you should use a 4 port manifold thru the smoothie plate. Then, all you have to do is use the EZ-Clip ends, and you can go right onto the 4 port without having the fish the hoses thru the dang cowl.

You can also use the vintage air hard lines, and eliminate the silly hose from the back of the head, too.

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[HWYSTR455]

Here's the hard line on the GTO:

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[HWYSTR455]

Here's the standard VA blockoff on the 442 install I recently did:

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[HWYSTR455]

I fished the hoses thru the cowl on 442:

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[HWYSTR455]

Vintage Air, and Dayco, make a heater hose, molded, that goes from 5/8 to 3/4.

The Vintage Air heater hoses and fittings are all 5/8, so pointless to try to use a larger hose.


http://www.vintageair.com/hose-kits-...=Heater%20Hose

http://www.vintageair.com/hose-kits-...Heater%20Lines

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[HWYSTR455]

Sidewalk bolts:


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[HWYSTR455]

DSE 67-69 F smoothie plate:


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https://www.detroitspeed.com/product...parts/010901DS


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[PontiacMatt72]

Will, What did you end up doing for firewall insulation?

[JSchmitz]

I was just looking at Vintage Air vs. Classic Auto Air. Classic Auto Air has this on their website: https://www.classicautoair.com/shop/...ning-material/

I need to do some more research.

[Jonsey]

Recently insulated my car.

Used a butyl product called Noico on the firewall, floor pan and roof. Covered that with a closed cell foam product from Siless. They are much cheaper than dynamat and worked well for me.

The Siless product is available in several different thicknesses.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by PontiacMatt72

Will, What did you end up doing for firewall insulation?

I bought Noico for floor and firewall. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And will cover this but haven't installed yet - will likely double layer it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[HWYSTR455]

The biggest complaint I've heard about less expensive alternatives to DynaMat/Liner is that the products are either thicker/bulky, or they don't stick well.

Not sticking well is probably not an issue for the floor, but for other areas, it can be an issue.

Keep in mind 'product' does change the fit of interior parts, there's a fine line of 'not enough' and 'too much'.

I had to remove any backing on carpets to allow it to 'fit' when using DynaMat and DynaLiner.

When I do doors, I usually only do DynaMat.

For roofs, pretty much have to use the thin, foil type products so they don't 'droop'. Especially is you have dark color paint. Roof heats up and that stuff comes off, laying on your headliner.

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