FAQ |
Members List |
Social Groups |
Calendar |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#21
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#22
|
||||
|
||||
The welting is a soft rubber. I'll look for a link to where I bought it. I do have extra.
Here's the company.. http://knoxvillerubbergasket.com/ Last edited by iowapub; 06-25-2013 at 08:47 PM. Reason: windows 8 is sucking right now |
#23
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#24
|
||||
|
||||
Traced out the hole on my hood using the template lonewolf sent me. Tracing is just a tick off center & will be corrected when cut.
The scoop may end up just being fastened to the hood like this Firebird or may end up a fully functional SHAKER...We'll see. Plan to cut the hole this week... More to come! |
#25
|
||||
|
||||
Well, It's too late to change my mind now!!
My friend came over Thursday night and cut the hole in the hood. The hole needs to be opened up just a little more on one side and then will be just great. The template worked great! (Thanks-lonewolf) http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7fb98c76.jpg More bracing will need to be cut out underneath... http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...psd1951bc1.jpg I have made a decision as to how I'm going to do this...Rather than have my friend make a new air cleaner with all the complications (how to fasten the base carb part to the scoop part, and also figuring out the right height of the air cleaner to get the scoop height right) I will fasten the scoop to the hood bracing. So it will not be a true shaker. But the goal is that it will look like one with the hood closed and will be functional to an extent as I will open up the scoop. I plan to use a rubber gasket to seal out water and channel it to the drain hole and also arrive at the correct height for the scoop. (not too high--not too low) After the scoop is located more bracing will need to be welded in to make mounting points for the scoop and provide rigidity to for the hood. http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8b5988b9.jpg I'm still not sure what I will do to finish the perimeter of the hole; that is, what kind of welting. I know I can get rubber welting (1/2" wide or so) but what I would prefer is thinner welting that is less noticeable, made out of either metal or maybe plastic that would be painted the same color as the hood. Hopefully I can achieve this. Open to Suggestions! |
#26
|
||||
|
||||
Making Progress and very pleased with how this is turning out! My friend and I worked on the hood several hours today and got it close. Got the necessary bracing cut away, did some trimming on the scoop and screwed the scoop onto the bracing. These pictures show where it is now-- close to how it will look. Next Chris is going to weld in some metal strips to reinforce the bracing and provide the final mounting points for the scoop. Then final fastening. Adjustability will be built in to enable fine tuning position so it is centered and straight. Will need to determine the right rubber gasket material for sealing the engine compartment. After scoop is on and centered the passenger side of the hole needs to be opened up a little more to make it even on both sides. I think plastic/vinyl door edge guard is the best thing I can use for around the hole in the hood. Does anyone know where I can get some of that in bright red? Oh, also need to get a smaller air cleaner to clear the bottom side of the scoop. Need to go from my current 14" to 10".
http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...ps987a74ee.jpg http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/...ps89d11f7d.jpg |
#27
|
||||
|
||||
Made some more progress...My friend made some plates and welded them into the hood bracing. They provide a nice smooth flat surface to mount the scoop onto. They also stiffen the hood bracing so it is strong again.
Plates are on the left and right of the hole. I don't have pictures yet but scoop is now mounted with about 8 screws. In place of the rubber gasket I used a thick bead of black flexible calk. It seals it up nicely. I fashioned a drain with a plastic elbow, some nylon washers and a little Super Glue! It will work nicely so I can drain the water back and underneath the car. Scoop looks really great like it came from the factory! Hood is still off the car and I am working on prep for paint. When I get the hood primed and back on the car I will post pictures. |
#28
|
||||
|
||||
Scoop is finished! Here are some pictures:
Very pleased with the underside. Nice view from the inside! I have decided to use either black or chrome door edge guard for around the hole.Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions. |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
Looks good! The CanAm's had a hole in the hood with a piece of edging made of aluminum shaped somewhat like welting. This piece ran around the edge of the hole. I picked up a slightly kinked CanAm hood out of a local yard in the mid 90's. then picked up a nice straight white Le Mans hood to cut out thehole. Found another nice white hood the next year & bought it too. Each time have sold the nice straight LeMans hood to CanAm restorers & still have the kinked hood with the alum edging, lol
__________________
Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
#30
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks! Do you know if the aluminum edging from a Can Am would fit a 79 Trans Am hole? The hole in my hood is the same as 79 Trans Am.
|
#31
|
|||
|
|||
Regret, i did not read this earlier., I do not subscribe to threads.
I seriously doubt the alum edging will fit, as you have already cut the hole.
__________________
Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
#32
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I used a template traced by a member here from a 79 Trans Am shaker hood. I wasn't sure if the Can Am hole is the same as the 79 Trans Am hole. |
#33
|
|||
|
|||
I posted this before But I think that the welting that goes on the fender flares on the Trans Am, it looks very close to what Motortown used for the original welting around the hole cut in the hood of the Can Am. I think if you were to look closer at the fender flare welting it will be very close to the original welting on the Can Am.
|
#34
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#35
|
|||
|
|||
I have Trans Ams and the flare welting would be a bad choice for this. It's a molded urethane trim. It doesn't have a flat side on it, which you would need on the top side. It's not very wide, and has a channel too wide open to fit tightly to the thin sheet metal, since it's made to fit over the thick urethane material of the TA flares. So, you'd be wasting your money on that.
You should be able to find something much closer to what a Can Am had.
__________________
Steve F. |
#36
|
|||
|
|||
The fender flare welting is in most of the catalogs from most of the after market people. The last post says it may not work but as he described it it should be thick enough inside to be able to cover all the metal edge of the hood. It may not be completely flat but may as I said better then nothing until you do find something that is closer or perfect.
|
#37
|
|||
|
|||
No, it's just shaped all wrong for this. I have one right here in the house and looked to see if could possibly work, but it wouldn't. Like I said, there's no side of it that would lay flat, so it would stick up around the edges, as well as fit loose to the metal. Wouldn't look good.
Something like door edge guard would be a lot better for this purpose.
__________________
Steve F. |
#38
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Two 1975 455 Grandvilles & '79 455 Trans Am ‘69 Camaro SS 396/375 (owned since ‘88) ‘22 Toyota Sequoia V8 ‘23 Lexus LS500 awd ‘95 Ford F-super duty 4wd 7.3 p-stroke & countless Jeeps & off road vehicles. |
#39
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Aftermarket door edge guard from Auto parts store is what I've been considering using. It will bend around the corners and lay pretty well. But I would much prefer something that could be painted the same color as the car. (Car will be 1968-69 Pontiac Cardinal Red/Chevy Garnet Red) I'm not sure how that would work with the door edge guard as it is so soft and flexable--unstable. The stuff I have found comes only in Chrome or Black. |
Reply |
|
|