[NeighborsComplaint]

Was browsing and came across a FiTech EZ Street 600HP capable kit for $869 and a Holley Sniper 255 lph w. 58 psi in-tank retrofit pump with internal bypass and OEM compatible sending unit for $427. The pump module claims to be 550 hp capable fits in the standard tank opening and has a hydra-mat pickup with integral reservoir.

Last time I looked, seems like it was much a more expensive proposition to go EFI. It kills me to buy something like this and not use it until April but Santa owes me one.

What do you think? If it was the equivalent Holley Sniper unit I'd have a lot less trepidation.

[78w72]

for not much more money, the tanks inc kit provides a new tank that has a nice baffle set up inside, vs using a possibly old or new stock type tank that wont have any baffling. the hydra mat is better than a stock pickup but the tanks in set up just seems like the better value. the internal bypass of the holley is nice, check out what aeromotive has for retrofit pumps, they offer internal bypass too.

[Formulajones]

I'm not a huge fan of the hydramat pickup. That retrofit stuff can work "ok" but it's not ideal. You would be much better off with a proper baffled tank from Tanks Inc and one of their Walbro 255 pump kits and then run your own external regulator and return line.

JLMounce has a lot of experience with the FI Tech stuff and can offer solid advice with things to look out for. I've been using the Holley Snipers, same principle but subtle differences.

I'm a carb guy through and through but I do enjoy tinkering with these throttle body EFI's.

[PAUL K]

Imo I'd stick with the Holley spreadbore you seemed happy with (and you won't have to remove it again! ) ...... Only benefit I've found with EFI in an old muscle car is the remote starter which doesn't serve a lot of purpose for a fair weather car. JMHO

[1980 TA]

I'm running three of the FITECH's and am quite pleased with them. I've even had to do warranty with them and its not a bad process. The new models with the updated wiring are really nice.

I'm running a tanks inc on my son's camaro as his tank was old, rusty, and the sending unit didn't work. Real nice piece. I'm running FITECH command centers on the other two as those cars had new tanks.

I see a huge benefit to the EFI over the carbs. I replaced a brand new Holley QFT on a LeMans I bought this summer with the FITECH. Huge difference in how it drives. The carb was cold natured even in summer temps. It fires right up now even in sub freezing temps. It was 20 degrees last night and the wife and I ran it to town. I'd let it idle in parking lots while she ran in and out of stores and it settles in nicely at 800 and you don't notice the motor. With the carb I never would have down that.

I switched the LeMans to FITECH for the wife as she took over the LeMans and won't drive my TA as it is a stick. She didn't want to learn to drive a car with a choke and she will drive the LeMans anywhere now. I picked up some MPG with it as well and no old car smell. The lack of old car smell is huge for the wife as she wouldn't let me take a fun car anywhere nice as she didn't like the exhaust smell in her clothes.

There are some benefits to the EFI. I'd say a lot depends on how much you want to drive it. I'll drive mine in any temp, but try to avoid rain and won't drive if there has been salt on the roads until it has been rained on once.

[Alizar]

Been running a Holley Sniper on my 66 Bonneville with the same in-tank pump/hydramat you're looking at for 2 years now. At the time I was considering the FiTech setup too, but the Holley was on-sale for not much more. So far I have been really happy with the setup. I'm at altitude (5,000 ft) and the carb never ran right. The EFI system fired up faster the first time (~2 cranks) than the carb would after sitting for a week (2 minutes of cranking). I have been amazed at how well it runs for something I just installed and started driving (have done zero tuning). It's not perfect, but it's been really good. As far as the hydramat vs. baffled tank goes, I do worry when my fuel level gets low if I'll have an issue, but I have ran down to "E" a couple times and have yet to have any problems. I'm sure a baffled tank is better, but I have no regrets. I also like the display for the Sniper shows my temp, RPM, battery voltage, and AFR. I didn't pick up any top end power (didn't expect to) but part-throttle response is much better than the carb.

It was a lot of work to do the swap and like you I bought this time of year and didn't get to use till spring, but it was worth it. If you're happy with how your carb works then I'd say don't bother, but if you don't want to have to mess with carbs anymore I think it's a worthwhile swap.

[JLMounce]

The EFI conversions have some specific use cases where IMHO they are almost necessary on these older cars. However, in a lot of cases, the EFI stuff boils down to cool factor. If you have a well tuned carburetor with a good fuel system behind it, the EFI isn't going to magically make everything even better.

If you use your car (or want to) year round, in varying climates and altitudes, the EFI stuff is the way to go. It'll compensate for the weather automatically and on the off chance it's not quite right, you're a 20 second hand held change away, instead of opening up the hood and changing rods/jets etc.

If you're at a higher altitude and utilizing available pump gas, volatility in the fuel can be an issue. Using the EFI and putting 45-60psi onto the fuel helps with boiling and gassing issues that can keep you from using the car on hot days or for long periods of time.

If the car is a cruiser to and from the local cars and coffee every so often and you don't have issues with modern fuels, or have access to gasoline only blends, EFI may not be necessary if the car is well tuned as is.

If you go the EFI route, get a new tank with internal baffling. You'll probably end up doing that anyway after the retrofit stuff doesn't live up to your expectations. Remember, the EFI doesn't have fuel bowls to help you out if the pickup in the tank is starved for fuel.

[krisr]

EFI is much more than just fuel control.

[Formulajones]

Fuel control is really the only reason I changed one of my cars.

Dad and I both went with the Sniper stealth, my Chevelle and his GTO.

Basically for the reason that JLMounce laid out. I was only interested in these 2 cars playing with fuel control because these are the 2 cars we like to race the most. The problem became living at 5000+ feet elevation where the cars are driven frequently and then racing at sea level where the track is.

I could fudge a carb to perform all around, but you give up a little bit at one end or the other. A carb will only adjust on it's own to atmospheric pressure so far before you really need to dive in and make some changes of your own.

With EFI, it became super simple. I can now command an AFR that I know works well for these particular engines, and the Sniper will shoot for that target no matter what. It really makes tuning simple with a lap top.

My daily drivers are still carbed, and that's fine. I have them tuned to run well enough a mile up and for the frequent trips we make to sea level with them. It's good enough. Won't be optimum performance wise but drivability is what I'm after here without the need to tinker. No issues with cold starts, working chokes, and even gas mileage is perfectly fine.

You just have to ask yourself if it's really worth the expense. Everyone has different reasons. Mine wasn't the norm. Carbs work excellent for me from a daily drivability standpoint, and at the track if if I don't mind some tinkering.
Usually, as JLMounce mentions, it's lack of carb tuning and subpar drivability that pushes people to the EFI side.

[tom s]

I looked into port injection and the cost involved changed my mind.Tom

[jeff chmura]

I have the Holley stealth efi on my '65 GTO. Quick glance, you would think it's a black Holley double pumper.
I also have the dual sync distributor and the retro in tank fuel pump. Love it!!!. Easier starts, can control timing, AFR, etc through the handheld.
Fuel pump puts out 60psi and doesn't need a return.(self contained)
If I did it now, I would go with the terminator set up only because there's more adjustability.
Alot are going to tell you that you need another fuel tank. Here's my opinion. If your not out racing, you don't need another tank. The retro setup is more that enough for a street cruiser and it's EZ to hook it up. (Supports 550hp) If I was racing and needed more volume,then yes, you will need a different tank/lines to support demand

[1980 TA]

The timing control is nice. I'm using it on my TA and not on the Lemans. I'm seriously thinking of swapping the Lemans distributor so that I can take advantage of it.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

Imo I'd stick with the Holley spreadbore you seemed happy with (and you won't have to remove it again! ) ...... Only benefit I've found with EFI in an old muscle car is the remote starter which doesn't serve a lot of purpose for a fair weather car. JMHO

It does run good with that carb ... I do have a removal tool I picked up should I ever need it.

[JLMounce]

If your car runs well with the carb on it now, you could consider moving to a spark control system. The Progression Ignition is likely a good choice here.

Having the ability to control spark in more than a linear fashion opens up a lot of performance and economy options for the engine. If you're simply looking for a small project, it might be something to look at.

[Cliff R]

Since it works well I wouldn't touch it with a 200' pole, bad MOJO awaits those who venture into that deal......IMHO......