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Old 05-25-2023, 09:18 PM
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Default 61 Bonneville.....no start...no crank...

Dead stock 61 survivor...all original except for alternator conversion....(with voltage reg)

Other than horn....everything electrical is not working.....no headlights or dash indicator lights...with key in crank position...

Starter will crank when I run a jumper to purple wire terminal on horn relay....

I just by-passed neutral safety switch....and still nothing....

What next....ignition switch?.......Anyway to test other than replace?

Any input is appreciated..

  #2  
Old 05-25-2023, 09:56 PM
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Since you did an alternator conversion I'd say start there?
12 volts to alternator?
Where does the big red wire on alternator go to?
How did you wire the conversion?

Check for 12 volts at fuse box?

Battery + cable go to the starter still? Power wire from there to power post? (probably horn relay or something?)


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Old 05-25-2023, 10:40 PM
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A volt ohm meter, or a test light, is a helluva lot cheaper than buying parts, and throwing them at a car, only to have changed everything that bolts to the electrical system, and find that corrosion, or a loose connection is causing the problem. As a rule, I never change anything electrical until I've isolated the problem to that part, saves me, and customers money, and grief.

I've seen more than a few GM cars that the small wire (purple) that energizes the starter solenoid is either is loose at where the nut is not tight enough for a good connection, or has corrosion under the terminal.

If the wiring is original it can be in the bulkhead connector connector where it passes through the firewall. Any wiring though could be suspect if it's original to the car, but even new cars have wiring problems occasionally.

That's how I solve electrical problems after twisting wrenches for a few decades. YMMV...

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Old 05-25-2023, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirrotica View Post
A volt ohm meter, or a test light, is a helluva lot cheaper than buying parts, and throwing them at a car, only to have changed everything that bolts to the electrical system, and find that corrosion, or a loose connection is causing the problem. As a rule, I never change anything electrical until I've isolated the problem to that part, saves me, and customers money, and grief.

I've seen more than a few GM cars that the small wire (purple) that energizes the starter solenoid is either is loose at where the nut is not tight enough for a good connection, or has corrosion under the terminal.

If the wiring is original it can be in the bulkhead connector connector where it passes through the firewall. Any wiring though could be suspect if it's original to the car, but even new cars have wiring problems occasionally.

That's how I solve electrical problems after twisting wrenches for a few decades. YMMV...
I checked and cleaned the purple wire terminal.....but it really had no evidence of corrosion ...and was tight.....

I'm thinking that these early B bodies do not have a bulkhead connector.....Underhood wires just pass thru firewall to fuseblock...IIRC

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Old 05-26-2023, 01:09 AM
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In case you don't have one, here's a copy of the 1961 wiring diagram. http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/t...re5765-333.jpg

It's not clear - did the car work, then you did an alternator conversion, and then it didn't work? If that is indeed the case, tray backtracking the changes made to the wiring.

If that isn't what happened then I'd suggest starting with something fairly simple. For instance, the headlights should come on whether the key is on or not, so check to see if +12 volts is getting to the headlight switch and go from there.

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Old 05-26-2023, 01:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart View Post
In case you don't have one, here's a copy of the 1961 wiring diagram. http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/t...re5765-333.jpg

It's not clear - did the car work, then you did an alternator conversion, and then it didn't work? If that is indeed the case, tray backtracking the changes made to the wiring.

If that isn't what happened then I'd suggest starting with something fairly simple. For instance, the headlights should come on whether the key is on or not, so check to see if +12 volts is getting to the headlight switch and go from there.
Alternator conversion was done a year ago..by previous owners shop...

Look professional....not a hack job...

Thanks for posting wiring diagram..

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Old 05-26-2023, 07:54 AM
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Check the connections at the amp gauge . Had the same issue.

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Old 05-26-2023, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62cat View Post
Check the connections at the amp gauge . Had the same issue.
Or the big yellow wire that goes to the amp gauge from the horn relay on the driver's side fender well.

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Old 05-26-2023, 08:39 AM
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As others said, plus the original regulator appeared to have a fuse, is there a fuse still in there somewhere?

Also appears the battery cable goes to the horn relay then the starter, still that way?



Schematic from service manual:
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Old 05-26-2023, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnta1 View Post
Also appears the battery cable goes to the horn relay then the starter, still that way?
Yes, the horn relay doubled as a big junction point for +12 volts.

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Old 05-26-2023, 09:44 AM
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There is good advice so far in this thread. When I bought my 62 Catalina 8 years ago, the only thing electrical on the car that worked was the starter and 1 brake light. The car did run. Nothing else electrical worked. Turned out to just be lousy connections at the fuse box and fuses themselves. I pulled the fuse box off the firewall, removed all the fuses and cleaned all the terminals with a Dremel tool and tiny wire wheel. Then new fuses and dialectric grease. Same with some light sockets, ignition switch, you get the picture. Everything came back to life and has been fine for the next 7 years so far. With your no start, follow the cranking circuit in the wiring diagram and clean everything, making checks along the way with a test light. Pretty simple circuit fortunately. Good luck.

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