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#121
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Quote:
Great. Thanks for the info! |
#122
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Came across some great deals on parts I will definitely need this past week.
Both my front fenders are rusted beyond my ability to fix...fender and bracket rusted away. Also, there is evident bondo in both current fenders. Passenger is also bowed out somewhat. So, instead of getting patch panels I was able to get these fenders that I can fix myself. Brackets are solid and fenders are straight and otherwise in pretty nice shape. I also was fortunate to get and exceptional set of 15 X 7 HW code Rally II wheels that came off a 77 Can Am... Super clean and a great deal! BTW, if anyone is looking for a nice set of 15 X 7 HW or HM Rally IIs, priced reasonably,, he has another set in excellent shape. Let me know and I will get you contact info. Wheels are in NJ. Tomorrow back to working on underneath the rear. |
#123
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You and that car were meant to be together .
The parts you need or want - just float down from the clouds ! Congrats on your good finds and good deals. |
#124
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Yes, I've been blessed with some good finds! I think this should be the last of the used parts I will need. Your clarification on the Can Am wheel bolt pattern was very helpful.
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#125
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FINALLY got these shocks out. These were the last things I expected to be difficult. I ended up using two different sized cutoff wheels and first cut the shock off and then cut the bolt heads off. Things should begin to speed up a little now.
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#126
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Still slowly moving forward! Found a piece of history under the back seat. I believe that was the first year I was able to vote... (No, I didn' tvote for him)... I needed to drill a hole in the floor under the back seat so I could get the 1/2" bolt holding one of the gas/brake line clips. Bolt currently soaking...
Once I get this bolt out I think I will pretty quickly have the gas line and brake line off. THEN serious work descaling frame/wire wheel, etc. Followed by power wash, prime and paint everything underneath. Then re-assemble firewall and back with the new parts... I'm going to go up to the firewall for now because I want to rebuild the front suspension while the old engine is in so it will be easier to get the front springs back in with the engine and front-end weight on them. |
#127
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Body Mount Question
I would love to replace all the body mounts but am afraid of snapping bolts. Most of them are passable but the worst is in the back. What's the best way to deal with these? Any suggestions?
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#128
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Heat Riser Question
My old engine has a heat duct for connecting hose to the air cleaner. Looks like some special head bolts were used by factory so duct could be attached with nuts.. My new engine (the cleaner one) has one regular head bolt in the front that won't allow me to re-attach the duct. If I want to keep this duct to keep things original, can I just pull the one head bolt out and replace with one that will allow me to attach duct?
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#129
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BODY MOUNT QUESTIONS
1) There are 2 rubber mounts at the front. The outer one has a bolt but the inner one has no bolt. Is this correct?
2) One of the mounts above the rear axle also doesn't appear to have a bolt. Is this correct? What holds the bushings with no bolts in? |
#130
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Quote:
Dennis |
#131
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Thanks Dennis. I kind of figured that but wasn't sure if there would be an issue un-torquing the one bolt and replacing it. I am familiar with SBC's but not with Pontiacs so wanted to make sure there wouldn't be an issue.
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#132
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Forgot to mention torque to 100 ft-lbs with engine oil on the threads.
Dennis |
#133
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Do the head bolts also require thread sealer on Pontiac V8's?
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#134
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No.
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The Following User Says Thank You to JSchmitz For This Useful Post: | ||
#135
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Thanks!
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#136
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Since my last post, I have finished needle scaling, wire wheeling, priming and painting underbody and frame--up to firewall. Glad that is over! Found a few holes in the trunk floor which I have patched plus the new holes I needed to make to get at the top of the rear body mounts.
I also replaced 14 of the body mounts up to the firewall. I was able to sawsall the rear bolts and the front ones that bolt. The second up from the back were floating but the cage nuts were up there so I bolted the new ones in. Fortunately, the ones under the doors unbolted. Currently fixing the driver's quarter at the lower bottom that was rusted out right into the trunk area. I wanted the trunk sealed up to keep the dust out of the trunk. Next, I want to remove the front seat and find out cost of fixing it... Probably at least $1000... But fortunately, I can get the exact fabric from a place out in Oregon. The fix the floor...refurb the interior add new carpet, etc. Then rebuild front suspension the pull the engine, re-assemble brake system, gas lines, etc, etc. Here are some pictures... |
#137
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Two More Pictures
Rear Body Mount
Lower driver's quarter panel which is still in process... QTR was rusted through with small holes in outer wheelhouse and trunk drop-off. |
#138
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Looks way more civilized underneath there now.
Hard work is paying off and showing some rewards. |
#139
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Definitely more civilized! Making progress slowly but surely. Finishing up getting my 15 X 7 Rally II's and will need to buy tires soon. I'm thinking 245 X 60 front and 255 X 60 rear...
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#140
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Continuing progress... Finished fixing rear quarter behind back tire. Started getting front end apart... It's further apart than pictures show. Still needs removal of bumper and core support. I have discovered core support is completely rotted out at frame mount...Hopefully I can get it repaired... The front body is complicated!! lots of parts!
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