#121  
Old 05-01-2023, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin View Post
Yes , they would.
And Can Am had White & Silver paint scheme on their R2 wheels.

Great. Thanks for the info!

  #122  
Old 05-03-2023, 04:56 PM
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Came across some great deals on parts I will definitely need this past week.

Both my front fenders are rusted beyond my ability to fix...fender and bracket rusted away. Also, there is evident bondo in both current fenders. Passenger is also bowed out somewhat. So, instead of getting patch panels I was able to get these fenders that I can fix myself. Brackets are solid and fenders are straight and otherwise in pretty nice shape.

I also was fortunate to get and exceptional set of 15 X 7 HW code Rally II wheels that came off a 77 Can Am... Super clean and a great deal!

BTW, if anyone is looking for a nice set of 15 X 7 HW or HM Rally IIs, priced reasonably,, he has another set in excellent shape. Let me know and I will get you contact info. Wheels are in NJ.

Tomorrow back to working on underneath the rear.
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  #123  
Old 05-03-2023, 11:06 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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You and that car were meant to be together .
The parts you need or want - just float down from the clouds !

Congrats on your good finds and good deals.

  #124  
Old 05-04-2023, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin View Post
You and that car were meant to be together .
The parts you need or want - just float down from the clouds !

Congrats on your good finds and good deals.
Yes, I've been blessed with some good finds! I think this should be the last of the used parts I will need. Your clarification on the Can Am wheel bolt pattern was very helpful.

  #125  
Old 05-04-2023, 05:18 PM
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FINALLY got these shocks out. These were the last things I expected to be difficult. I ended up using two different sized cutoff wheels and first cut the shock off and then cut the bolt heads off. Things should begin to speed up a little now.
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  #126  
Old 05-16-2023, 05:25 PM
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Still slowly moving forward! Found a piece of history under the back seat. I believe that was the first year I was able to vote... (No, I didn' tvote for him)... I needed to drill a hole in the floor under the back seat so I could get the 1/2" bolt holding one of the gas/brake line clips. Bolt currently soaking...

Once I get this bolt out I think I will pretty quickly have the gas line and brake line off. THEN serious work descaling frame/wire wheel, etc. Followed by power wash, prime and paint everything underneath. Then re-assemble firewall and back with the new parts...

I'm going to go up to the firewall for now because I want to rebuild the front suspension while the old engine is in so it will be easier to get the front springs back in with the engine and front-end weight on them.
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  #127  
Old 05-16-2023, 05:30 PM
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Default Body Mount Question

I would love to replace all the body mounts but am afraid of snapping bolts. Most of them are passable but the worst is in the back. What's the best way to deal with these? Any suggestions?
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  #128  
Old 05-16-2023, 05:40 PM
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Default Heat Riser Question

My old engine has a heat duct for connecting hose to the air cleaner. Looks like some special head bolts were used by factory so duct could be attached with nuts.. My new engine (the cleaner one) has one regular head bolt in the front that won't allow me to re-attach the duct. If I want to keep this duct to keep things original, can I just pull the one head bolt out and replace with one that will allow me to attach duct?
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  #129  
Old 05-24-2023, 04:06 PM
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Default BODY MOUNT QUESTIONS

1) There are 2 rubber mounts at the front. The outer one has a bolt but the inner one has no bolt. Is this correct?

2) One of the mounts above the rear axle also doesn't appear to have a bolt. Is this correct?

What holds the bushings with no bolts in?
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  #130  
Old 05-25-2023, 08:30 AM
SD455DJ SD455DJ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79 Phoenix View Post
My old engine has a heat duct for connecting hose to the air cleaner. Looks like some special head bolts were used by factory so duct could be attached with nuts.. My new engine (the cleaner one) has one regular head bolt in the front that won't allow me to re-attach the duct. If I want to keep this duct to keep things original, can I just pull the one head bolt out and replace with one that will allow me to attach duct?
Yes, just replace with the proper studded bolt. Your newer engine appears to have been rebuilt, or at least the heads were removed for some reason and they installed a non-stud bolt in that location.

Dennis

  #131  
Old 05-25-2023, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD455DJ View Post
Yes, just replace with the proper studded bolt. Your newer engine appears to have been rebuilt, or at least the heads were removed for some reason and they installed a non-stud bolt in that location.

Dennis
Thanks Dennis. I kind of figured that but wasn't sure if there would be an issue un-torquing the one bolt and replacing it. I am familiar with SBC's but not with Pontiacs so wanted to make sure there wouldn't be an issue.

  #132  
Old 05-25-2023, 10:52 AM
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Forgot to mention torque to 100 ft-lbs with engine oil on the threads.

Dennis

  #133  
Old 05-25-2023, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by SD455DJ View Post
Forgot to mention torque to 100 ft-lbs with engine oil on the threads.

Dennis
Do the head bolts also require thread sealer on Pontiac V8's?

  #134  
Old 05-25-2023, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79 Phoenix View Post
Do the head bolts also require thread sealer on Pontiac V8's?
No.

The Following User Says Thank You to JSchmitz For This Useful Post:
  #135  
Old 05-25-2023, 12:50 PM
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Thanks!

  #136  
Old 08-03-2023, 04:39 PM
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Since my last post, I have finished needle scaling, wire wheeling, priming and painting underbody and frame--up to firewall. Glad that is over! Found a few holes in the trunk floor which I have patched plus the new holes I needed to make to get at the top of the rear body mounts.

I also replaced 14 of the body mounts up to the firewall. I was able to sawsall the rear bolts and the front ones that bolt. The second up from the back were floating but the cage nuts were up there so I bolted the new ones in. Fortunately, the ones under the doors unbolted.

Currently fixing the driver's quarter at the lower bottom that was rusted out right into the trunk area. I wanted the trunk sealed up to keep the dust out of the trunk.

Next, I want to remove the front seat and find out cost of fixing it... Probably at least $1000... But fortunately, I can get the exact fabric from a place out in Oregon. The fix the floor...refurb the interior add new carpet, etc. Then rebuild front suspension the pull the engine, re-assemble brake system, gas lines, etc, etc.
Here are some pictures...
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  #137  
Old 08-03-2023, 05:32 PM
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Default Two More Pictures

Rear Body Mount

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Lower driver's quarter panel which is still in process... QTR was rusted through with small holes in outer wheelhouse and trunk drop-off.

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  #138  
Old 08-03-2023, 11:13 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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Looks way more civilized underneath there now.
Hard work is paying off and showing some rewards.

  #139  
Old 08-04-2023, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin View Post
Looks way more civilized underneath there now.
Hard work is paying off and showing some rewards.
Definitely more civilized! Making progress slowly but surely. Finishing up getting my 15 X 7 Rally II's and will need to buy tires soon. I'm thinking 245 X 60 front and 255 X 60 rear...

  #140  
Old 08-27-2023, 04:55 PM
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Continuing progress... Finished fixing rear quarter behind back tire. Started getting front end apart... It's further apart than pictures show. Still needs removal of bumper and core support. I have discovered core support is completely rotted out at frame mount...Hopefully I can get it repaired... The front body is complicated!! lots of parts!
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