[getmygoat]

Hi all,

Am trying to get my hideaway headlights working. Realized the can is rusted through in a couple places. Used some jb weld. Hopefully that holds. I'd prefer to use the original can as the repops look different.

Still not holding vacuum after jb weld. Wondering if there might be a seal issue between the nipple and can. Does anyone know how the can is disassmbled? Is the nipple pressed or screwed into the can? etc?

Wish I had not sold my air compressor - as maybe I could test for leaks using that (maybe bike pump will work).

Thanks!

[getmygoat]

I smartened up and decided to use the cheap electric vacuum pump I bought on Amazon in reverse. Pressurized the can with the pump and held it under water to find a couple more holes.

More JB Weld. I'll try the same test tomorrow after the JB Weld cures. Step by step.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Yea, sealed an original can up in the late 80's. Sold that GTO.

Seems a popular "commercial" beans/con carne can could play the role rather well. Just how to get the stuff out. old Hi-C Welches & Coffee cans not that Big huh.

[dataway]

I always wondered about adding a small electric vacuum pump into the system to "recharge" the vacuum in the system if the engine was not running ... useful to show off your front flappers a bunch without starting the engine

[getmygoat]

Originally Posted by dataway

I always wondered about adding a small electric vacuum pump into the system to "recharge" the vacuum in the system if the engine was not running ... useful to show off your front flappers a bunch without starting the engine

Won't the system hold vacuum indefinitely with the engine off? That's what the can is for, to provide a vacuum reserve if you turn off the engine and then the lights. Check valve should prevent leak down if the system is tight. No?

[dataway]

Yeah, but you can only cycle the covers about 2.5 times with the engine off

[getmygoat]

Another thing I noticed.

The bottom of my can has something similar to a small nail through a hole in the bottom near the edge. This seems weird but could it be a pressure relief of some kind? e.g. in the event of a large backfire the nail would fly out and prevent the can from exploding?

I bought the reservoir used of course so I don't know the history. The "nail" doesn't look like a normal nail, almost like its a special built nail for the purpose. Anyone seen this on another factory reservoir?

It seems to be preventing a good seal at this point (the can is holding pressure if I put my finger over the nail's hole).

[Held for Ransom]

Don't see that on mine.

[Greg Reid]

I just ran my finger around the edge of mine on that end and I don't feel anything like that.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by dataway

Yeah, but you can only cycle the covers about 2.5 times with the engine off

Funny thing, mine will not come down with the engine off but will come up... haven't tried to troubleshoot it. Weird. Don't want to hijack this thread.

[Stuart]

If it were me I'd try soldering the holes in the can rather than JB Weld, I think it would hold up better.

The vacuum operated linkage for the tripower setup on my car used a vacuum canister that looks exactly like a large Hi-C juice can (although I don't know if they still use cans or if they've switched to plastic.) Power brake vacuum canisters on some cars were similar, too. it may be worth prowling the aisles of your local grocery store to see if there's some food or drink that comes in a can that looks like yours.

[getmygoat]

Originally Posted by Stuart

If it were me I'd try soldering the holes in the can rather than JB Weld, I think it would hold up better.

it may be worth prowling the aisles of your local grocery store to see if there's some food or drink that comes in a can that looks like yours.

The JB Weld claims 5000 psi strength. Looked up solder strength on google, looks to be substantially stronger, but its done now, so I'll see how it holds up.

I doubt a grocery story in 2023 is likely to have a can similar to the one made on a GTO in 1969.

Inline tube sells a repop, but it has 11 ribs. The stock cans had four.

[getmygoat]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

I just ran my finger around the edge of mine on that end and I don't feel anything like that.

Thanks for the input. I'd suspect it wasn't stock more if the "nail" was more standard. Doesn't have a point on the end, weird. I was thinking this probably would make a lousy pressure relief system, since the hole in the can is so small, unlikely to vent enough pressure to make a difference. Its weird. Why would someone modify the can in this way? Also the hole is on the edge, which would be a stronger area than more centered.

Was thinking maybe it could be a water drain... but its not positioned at the low point. Doesn't make sense.

[Greg Reid]

A #10 vegetable can is about the right size and look but how would you empty the contents and seal the can back up? Seems it would be much more difficult than fixing the one that you have.
Can't imagine how that "nail" wound up in there. Plenty of choices for sealing the hole. Solder, JB weld, a small screw with threads coated with sealant...

[dataway]

That nail thing rings a bell .... could swear I've come across that before.

[getmygoat]

Thanks all for the input. I think what I'll try is including a small amount of sealer around the head of that nail. My theory is the vacuum will draw the nail in and help with sealing. This should seal the can while not taking any irreversible actions in case the nail is actually OEM.

Hopefully none of the jbweld or sealer is drawn into the intake.

[gtobird]

Originally Posted by getmygoat

Thanks all for the input. I think what I'll try is including a small amount of sealer around the head of that nail. My theory is the vacuum will draw the nail in and help with sealing. This should seal the can while not taking any irreversible actions in case the nail is actually OEM.

Hopefully none of the jbweld or sealer is drawn into the intake.

A few comments on this. I have an original can, but it has no nail. Unless someone else finds an original like this, I'm guessing someone put a hole in the can to coat the inside of it with paint or something like it, then just plugged it. Just my guess.

You mention JB Weld and 5000 PSI. I believe that's just compression strength of JB Weld so it wouldn't mean much of anything in this case.

And last, as long as the area around the hole in your can is dimpled in, I'm pretty sure JB weld or solder would work just fine as long as you filled the dimpled in area too. I also agree that sealing the nail would probably work too, but I would be less inclined to go that route out of concern that normal road vibration might work the nail loose over time and cause a leak.

It's all just theory..........

Old Joe

[Greg Reid]

I've had good success with a product by JB Weld called Steel Stick. It's basically a two-part putty so that you can press it into the space you want it in and it stays in place. The traditional is a little runny for some applications. Either would do this job. Just rough the metal up a little bit around the hole.

[TCSGTO]

JB Welded and put new rubber seals in sometime in the late 80’s. Still holding.

[68ragtop]

I jb welded mine years back. I could never get it to seal 100%. but its was pretty rusted inside. I still have it, but ended up buy the incorrect aftermarket can. Only option I really had at the time. Figured it would be ok until a better solution came along.

I probably have a post on it somewhere. I was constantly posting about all the little issues I was running into. hard to believe my car will have been completed for 4 years this October