[gtorich]

Bought a repo oil pan from ames without the baffle in it.........also bought the baffle they have to weld in...............no way i can do this myself............doesnt even look like it would fit without messing around with it.............so anyone in the wisc area that has done this, i could bring it to you............i live in oshkosh, wi........but i will travel to have this done.

Hopefully someone has done this before............

Thanks

Rich

[b-man]

Buying a good used OEM baffled would have been the best and cheapest route.

Use the classifieds here, don’t be so quick to buy reproduction junk parts that end up costing more and simply don’t fit worth a damn. Years ago I peddled all of my good used OEM pans both with and without baffles and all of them fit fine.

I’d return that junk pan and baffle, no matter who you bought it from and cut your losses.

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by b-man

Buying a good used OEM baffled would have been the best and cheapest route.

Use the classifieds here, don’t be so quick to buy reproduction junk parts that end up costing more and simply don’t fit worth a damn. Years ago I peddled all of my good used OEM pans both with and without baffles and all of them fit fine.

I’d return that junk pan and baffle, no matter who you bought it from and cut your losses.

Thanks Bart, i see i put this in the wrong section, thought i was in members helping members.............but to your point, i did put in a ad in the want ads for a baffled pan...........not one reply as for one for sale..........the pan i bought was from ames, oem according to them, but with no baffle............i will repost this to the members helping members.............unless you can move it there.

Sorry for the mistake

Rich

[b-man]

Sorry you weren’t able to find one in the classified parts wanted forums. Be sure to post in multiple forums when what you’re looking for fits multiple different car models, an oil pan is not chassis specific in any way when it comes to Pontiacs.

Also don’t hesitate to contact a few of the known used parts sellers who frequent the classified forums, they don’t always list everything they have.

Moved to Members Helping Members.

[Sirrotica]

FWIW, Summit has new stock ones with the baffle for $82

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...2/make/pontiac

[Formulabruce]

Gold dichromate oil pans are VERY hard to get engine paint to stick to.. FYI.

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

FWIW, Summit has new stock ones with the baffle for $82

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...2/make/pontiac

I guess i should explain this further, i can get any baffled pan.........from cheap to very expensive...........problem im having is the pan on my 66 is original but it bent out of shape..........right now it very close to my center link about 1/4 if that from it.

All the repo pans they sell are say rounder in that area, so i would have to dent it in one way or the other.............the pan i bought from ames was there oem repo, which is the same size as mine by the center link................im assuming since most people are saying the repo pans are not causing an issue with there cars...........im guessing my issue is with my car, whatever that is................i know i can buy the spacers to lift the motor up some, but im trying to throw in a tkx also, and im worried about pinion angles being all over the place, not to mention if the trans is gonna be smaking the floor boards..........

Thanks again for the help

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by gtorich

I guess i should explain this further, i can get any baffled pan.........from cheap to very expensive...........problem im having is the pan on my 66 is original but it bent out of shape..........right now it very close to my center link about 1/4 if that from it.

All the repo pans they sell are say rounder in that area, so i would have to dent it in one way or the other.............the pan i bought from ames was there oem repo, which is the same size as mine by the center link................im assuming since most people are saying the repo pans are not causing an issue with there cars...........im guessing my issue is with my car, whatever that is................i know i can buy the spacers to lift the motor up some, but im trying to throw in a tkx also, and im worried about pinion angles being all over the place, not to mention if the trans is gonna be smaking the floor boards..........

Thanks again for the help

The cars do bend the front crossmember if they've been around and abused for over 50 years. Plus all these frames weren't exactly the same when new, the welds alone look like a 16 YO kid was practicing welding on them.

You could have a frame shop pull the crossmember back into original shape to gain the clearance (expensive) or shim the stands up 1/4 inch. I am old enough to have worked on them when they were daily drivers, and many of them rubbed back then. Add to that many of the center links, idler arms, Pittman have been replaced since they were new with parts that may or may not have been correctly manufactured correctly from aftermarket sources. The rubber mounts have sagged, or again, not been made to OEM specs. People hitting potholes in the road tend to bend the crossmembers over years.

The chevy vega/monza cars had this problem much worse back in the 70s. It was so bad that the cars crossmember bent so much, that the cars couldn't be aligned unless the frames were pulled back down on a machine. Of course A bodies aren't as weak as the vegas were, but they still did bend.

All of these tolerances added together on cars that were hammered on since the day the left the dealers lot. Expectations for them to be again like the day they left the factory, are pretty lofty. If it were my car, I'd make the changes to align the parts for today, and give up on putting everything back like it was 1966, but it's not my car, so the owner needs to choose the avenue to make the parts work together.

Someone could probably make a special Pontiac A body center link that was dropped 1/4 inch and they'd make a good living from selling them. I guess you cold also put the pan in a press before it's installed, and gain some clearance by pressing the metal down a small amount to gain some center link clearance.

One other point is unless you're really slinging the car hard to the right, that baffle isn't going to be doing much good in an A body pan anyway. All the 64-72 A body cars never came with baffled pans, the change was made in 1973.

There are a bunch of factors to be considered, somehow you need to consider all the possibilities, and decide which is the best way to go, to put the car back into driving condition. There's more than one way to skin a cat.

Good luck in whichever path you choose.........

One other thing is, if you're putting the engine back to the point it was in 1966 the driveline angles should be fine restored back to the original point. I've tweaked a lot of A body drivelines from running long tail T 400s in A bodies and never had any problems even in race cars. The 67 Lemans in my signature pics has a long tail T 400 in it along with a shortened driveshaft and the crossmember is slid rearward. I beat it hard on the street, them converted it into a race car over 10 years, not a hint of any driveline problems. I cut and welded the driveshaft myself, it was never in a lathe, or balanced after I shortened it. After doing this multiple times I wouldn't worry too much about 1/2 of a degree on the driveshaft.

[gtorich]

Sirrotica............thank you very much for explaining that..........does help.

Guess im gonna use the pan from ames..........the oem they sell.........189 bucks, all the others they have are way less, but on all of them they say will need to be indented on the early gto.

Rich