[Jimbobeast]

Just got the clear coat on the 1970 Rally II's (JL code) and they look good. I sand blasted and epoxy primed these wheels about 30 years ago and put them on the shelf. Amazingly the primer held up and there was zero rust (they are in a garage in Florida). I went over each wheel with a scotch brite pad and mineral spirits, grinding down the nicks and gouges and filling them in with glazing putty. The backs and inner areas were painted with Rustoleum Light Machine Gray.

I used Eastwoods new 2K Aerospray catalyzed rattle can spray paint and the results were spectacular. It is expensive ($25/can) and has to be used within 48 hrs of activating the in-can catalyst, but it sprays beautifully and goes on smooth.
After the Argent silver I used Year One's 14" mask kit and a lot of masking tape. 5 wheels probably took me 3 hrs to mask. The 2K Charcoal Gray went on after a light scuffing of the silver where the gray would go (scotch brite again).
The tech at Eastwood said to wait 24-48 hrs before applying the gray (I did 48) and then remove the masking 20-30 minutes after spraying the gray or as soon as the paint is tacky. 3 days later I applied the clear coat. I used the Eastwood 2K Duraspray Clear (no catalyst).

It took 2 cans of the silver, one can of the gray and one of the clear to do 5 wheels. 2 cans of the Rustoleum Industrial Light Gray did the backs.

Benefits of the 2K Aerospray are ease of application and hardness of the paint and overall finished quality. Downsides are cost and you have to wear a respirator for the isocyanates and once activated the can is only good for 48 hrs.

I used the Duraspray clear because I did not want to get suited up again and the tech said it would work fine. Cost is about the same.

For 53 year old wheels, I think they came out pretty well.

[Jimbobeast]

The Eastwood Aerospray cans have a bladder inside with the catalyst. You remove the red plastic button from the top, place it over the valve on the bottom of the can and press down on a hard surface to puncture the bladder. Slick.

[Jimbobeast]

Wheels masked, charcoal applied and the crapload of masking carefully removed

[Jimbobeast]

Final step is to apply the clear coat. Directions say full hardness in 8 days.
It's hard to tell in these photos, but the clear coat really makes them pop.

In a few weeks after everything has dried completely, I'll have the Coker Raised White Letter radials mounted.

[DavesGTO]

Looks great, nice masking job!


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[Dave M]

Very nice. I have to do the same with my wheels. I’m in Florida too. So I’ll probably wait until the rainy season is over.


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[Jimbobeast]

Thanks. I painted them either in the early morning or late in the day when it was not too hot or humid.

[Jimbobeast]

The prep and masking are the tedious parts. I probably have 20+ hours into these 5 wheels. Totally worth it.

[Dave M]

The last set I did, for my 68, I spent 12 hours blasting one wheel. Only got 1/2 way done with that wheel actually. Ended up bringing them somewhere to get them blasted and powder coated silver. I scuffed where the charcoal goes, masked and painted it. Came out decent. But as expected, the charcoal chips off real easy


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[Jimbobeast]

I had the wheels media blasted along with the frame and body. The epoxy primer was really hard (drying for 25 years will do that), and the 2K paint is supposed to be chip and heat resistant.

[Jimbobeast]

I let the wheels dry for a couple of weeks and today I had the Coker steel belted Firestone reproduction tires mounted. The boys at Tire Choice were very careful and there were no nicks or scratches.

[BMac55]

Great job! They came out beautiful