[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

.... Just maybe the Converter sent metal through the fluid system.

My old adage after a good rebuild was to state " this TH400 will be old as reliable as the Converter in front." Therefore, I would record the application, engine, and Converter intended by the Customer.

I agree " install a new Torque Converter on a fresh build."

Mikes reply: I would like to add another post of mine for all to visit in the future see:

"TH 400 Pontiac Transmission Build or not to Build Myself?"

This post gives the reader much more Info. about my Trans. build from its exception.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

I tested the Trans. on a 5-mile run on two occasions and the Trans ran flawlessly, then on the third run I had a problem. The Trans would not upshift out of first again, so I removed the Modulator and installed one I had in stock and cleaned out the Govenor, just in case and while I was in that area and the problem went away.

Either you were right all along about the Modulator being the culprit or cleaning the Govenor fixed it, I won't know until the problem reoccurs. If the problem doesn't remanifest itself soon, I can pull the Modulator and install the one I was using all along to see if the problem comes back, assuring that I eliminate any dought that I have to the reason of " why the Trans. would not shift out of first after a fresh rebuild". For now, I will be satisfied to have a running vehicle. I ran it tonight and it shifted softly through the gears and I manually upshifted from first through third satisfactorily plus, it down shifted and the engine breaking works as well as the Detent downshifting while passing gear was employed. Again, thank you all for the input. Mike out.

P.S. The vehicle has sat for 2 years and the center carb. has the float sticking, so we will remove the carb. and pull the air horn to see: "why the float is sticking". Most likely we will remanufacture the entire unit while we are there. I might even install my one-inch risers that I purchased, installed and then removed in the past.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

We found a piece of debris in the center Carb. needle and seat area, there was an obstruction for sure. While the Center carb. is off we decided to pull the two outer dumpers to inspect and clean out the float bowl areas as well, nothing to be concerned with there, just some carb. cleaner did the trick. I like to be sure that the Carbs. are working properly at all times. We will install the 1/2" risers with the Gaskets and Phenolic shield I created to keep the float bowls from heating up, thereby the fuel won't boil or percolate in this extreme Florida heat.

What I did was use (3) two bbl aluminum cover blocking plates that I never use, as a Phenolic to each float bowl, by simply adding a mouse pad material to these plates, one forms a barrier between the intake manifold and the bottom of the float bowl. The rubber side is glued to the aluminum blocking plate with the Mylar side facing down and up, forming an insulation barrier. Then, I took metal tape and encapsulated it all. The Carbs. get insulating 1/8 " material with foil side out, around the float bowls and any area on the outside of the Carbs. that can help keep them cooler. I have been using this for years and then I metal tape the insulation material so it holds better and looks nicer. The reason for this extra work is because I did not have enough fans at the time. I just stick with this insulation process because it works so well for me. I have a fan on the outside of the Radiator now and a sidekick fan that I installed first.

Once I added the A/C the Temp. rose by 30 degrees. I also added a phenolic under the Intake Manifold and above the Vally pan. I bought the special Material online. I took metal diamond hollow Barbecue grade and glued the Phenolic material beneath the graded metal, then I added Fiberglass Woven Rovin on top and encapsulated it in metal tape to keep the heat from reaching the carb. float bowls. I also blocked off the cross over exhaust ports. The Radiator cap has a higher-pressure rating than normal too. I bought a special Thermostat with the 3 holes drilled in it as well. The water pump has the Pontiac mod. that lowers the tolerances of the factory inner parts. Inside I use Water Wetter, and Antifreeze with distilled water, at the change period. Once, I pulled the A/C condenser out and ran the car without it and it ran significantly cooler. I use a factory Shroud and Fan blade.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

We tested the Trans. on the 4th of July weekend and all seems to work flawlessly for now. I also made the kickdown gear come on sooner and made the secondaries come on sooner, I stomped down on the accelerator at about 70 MPH and the kickdown immediately came on and the secondaries took off impressively. I will keep with this set up for now to see how I like it in the long run. We did have some kind of vibration and we put a rubber mount between the outer Elec. fan to condenser area, again testing will let us know if that issue is fixed.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by TRADERMIKE 2012

We tested the Trans. on the 4th of July weekend and all seems to work flawlessly for now. I also made the kickdown gear come on sooner and made the secondaries come on sooner, I stomped down on the accelerator at about 70 MPH and the kickdown immediately came on and the secondaries took off impressively. I will keep with this set up for now to see how I like it in the long run. We did have some kind of vibration and we put a rubber mount between the outer Elec. fan to condenser area, again testing will let us know if that issue is fixed.

Mike here : Please follow up in this thread " Question about 041 Cam - in the Pontiac - Street forum of PY Online Forums - Bringing the Pontiac Hobby Together.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

See this Thread that goes with this one please: TH 400 Pontiac Transmission Build or not to Build Myself?

By the way this Trans. build is working fine, great for my first Trans. build.