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#1
01-05-2022, 04:03 PM
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cylinder head/exhaust manifold heat shield mounting
I have a 70 TA RA III and I'm building a motor with Edelbrock heads. I want to keep everything looking and functioning as close to stock as possible. For the heat shield/riser (not sure exactly what it's called) What is the best way to do that with the Edelbrock heads? Use the original bolts/studs, or get a new set of original style? The Edelbrock bolts are not studded. ARPs are not studded. Have studs welded onto ARPs?? Or just say forget about it and move on 'cause it's not stock anymore anyway?
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70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
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#2
01-05-2022, 04:36 PM
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The latter !
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
| The Following User Says Thank You to steve25 For This Useful Post: | ||
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#3
01-05-2022, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
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70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
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#4
01-05-2022, 06:42 PM
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It's really your own personal preference and what you want the engine bay to look like.
Me personally, I go through the extra trouble to make things like this work for a stock appearance. I always do the heat shield and ductwork, even if it's non functional, I still make it appear that it works. |
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#5
01-05-2022, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
The question is, what is the best way to do it? So if ARP bolts would be better, I could use JB Weld to attach studs, or just use the stock bolts with studs.
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70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
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#6
01-05-2022, 07:55 PM
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I don't have any pictures but have done the heat shields on a few E-D port heads. I have tig welded a stud on the ARP bolt heads. Just use a deep socket to torque the bolts.
There is a guy up the road that just did this and made some washers with tabs to go under the head of the bolt that he can bend over after torquing and use a self tapping screw. JB weld will not work.
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66 GTO Nostalgia Super Stock/Street Legal Car 421 CID, stock block, Wenzler Intake, 2- Carter 750 AFB's, 3.90 Gears, Full Factory Interior, Full Exhaust, Stock Suspension 3750LBS 9.77@136.99 Multiple NSCA/NMCA World Champion 66 GTO 389 3x2, 4 speed, 4.33 gear, Montero Red 33K original Miles 67 GTO 2dr Post, 428, Tri Power, 3.55 Gears 80 Trans Am Black SE Y84 W72 WS6 |
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#7
01-05-2022, 10:50 PM
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As said above or another option, ARP sells studs with a smaller attached stud on top. If they offer the length you need that might be less hassle than welding studs to your existing ARP bolts.
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