#1  
Old 05-24-2021, 11:51 AM
Dick Boneske's Avatar
Dick Boneske Dick Boneske is offline
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Default Need Help with '68 Hardtop Restoration

Yesterday, we put the new subframe with engine and trans in place. We did this with the front fenders, inner and outer, in place. It went very well. We were able to align the subframe using the alignment holes in the rearend of the fame and body. We measured from each rear wheel to each front wheel and are within 1/16" of equal from left to right. Very easy way to install the drivetrain in a Firebird.

Please help me with a few questions.

This is a factory A/C car. We are using Vintage Air to update the HVAC. We are using F.A.S.T. fuel injection on the 462 Kaufmann engine. Also using MSD ignition. All of the above need a stout source of +12 volta. The battery cable has a 10 gage pigtail in addition to the main lead. Is this needed on the voltage regulator panel? What have you used as a terminal block to tie these devices together? We may need a switched and unswitched supply. How about on the radiator support near the voltage regulator? Any appropriate leads (wires) there?

The OEM underhood harness has a third wire to the starter solenoid. Can we tape this off? What was it for? The mini starter has terminals for only the main 12 volt supply and the purple solenoid lead. .

Second, the 11" brake booster interfered with the driver's side valve cover. We plan to us a 9" booster instead. I don't anticipate any problems with that other than I suspect the 9" needs more vacuum than the larger booster. Brakes are Wilwood all around.
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  #2  
Old 05-24-2021, 09:57 PM
thews thews is offline
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Damn that's a nice job and a beautiful car. .

  #3  
Old 05-30-2021, 04:45 PM
TedRamAirII TedRamAirII is offline
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There are 2 alignment holes at the subframe to the front mounts on the body, a pin must be inserted to line it all up, .610" diameter I think? Be sure those line up, otherwise you may have front fender gap, line up issues. Then check your distance from the rear wheels, and cross check for square. Main power comes from the battery , to the Horn Relay, which is the junction block for power to the Bulkhead connector. The third wire to the starter will be the Resistor wire to the coil, just tape it up, or remove it.

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  #4  
Old 06-06-2021, 06:55 AM
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Hammered Hammered is offline
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I ran into similar challenges on my '67 and made a relay/power distribution panel that I hid behind the driver's headlight: http://1967firebird.atwebpages.com/body6.php I upgraded to a 10si alternator and got rid of the old style regulator too. Finally, I learned that if too many loads are connected directly to the battery, the alternator won't sense the load as well and the battery won't charge. I've been running this for 14 years now with no problems.

I also wound up going with hydroboost because of clearance issues.

BTW, nice car - what wheels are those?

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  #5  
Old 06-06-2021, 12:16 PM
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Dick Boneske Dick Boneske is offline
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We switched to a 9" booster, which fits fine. We may have to remove the wiper motor to remove the driver's side valve cover. We're going to wait and see if there is enough vacuum for the brakes.

Those are the 17" Rally II's from Year One. Ames sells the same wheels. I think it's 9" in back and 8" in front.

Thank you for the compliment. Can't wait to fire it up!

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