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Old 06-29-2021, 04:54 AM
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Default Trunk Talk

How tough is it to get the trunk lock reinstalled and lined up? I'm removing my trunk lid to do some minor blasting around the under side edges so I removed the lock mechanism ... looks like a bear to get back in. Was surprised the 69 assembly manual has what seems to be zero information on the trunk, the Fisher body manual had more, but no good diagram of the rear lock.

So I have to hold the cylinder in place and slide that locking plate back up in there?

And ... is there another plug in the trunk release wire that is inside the trunk lid? I removed the wire from the mechanism ... but hate to pull that wire out of the trunk, looks like a pain to get back in. Maybe tie a string to it and pull it out and leave the string in there to pull it back through?

I'm leaving the hinges in place and hoping I can blow the sand out of them, since the trunk works great, they are in good shape and I don't want the headache of resetting the rods and such ... they are drilled to mark the location of the lid on the hinges.

I'm going to leave the majority of the underside in factory paint, it looks pretty good and I'd like to leave original paint on the car somewhere that will remind me of when I bought it in 1976.

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Old 06-29-2021, 07:59 AM
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Can't answer the specifics of your questions but the sandblasting comment got my attention. I sandblasted the lower edge of my trunk lid about 15 years ago. To this day, every time I open the trunk a small bit of sand winds up right at the base of the back glass. It falls out of that tiny little hole at the front corner which is, I suppose, a drain hole?.
Moral - Tape up every single hole.

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Old 06-29-2021, 09:55 AM
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The trunk lock usually goes in nice and easy. You insert the locking tab to about 1” from fully set in place while pushing it downwards so that the inserted end is flush against the inside of the outer sheet metal. Then lower the lock in as you guide the lock rod into the latch. Then push the lock in flush in its seat and then push or tap the locking plate the rest of the way to lock it tight. Lastly the locking plate is either screwed or riveted (depending on the plant) to prevent it from working loose.

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Old 06-29-2021, 11:43 AM
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Yep one of the reasons I'm taking it off is to shake out stuff I hear rattling around inside it. I'll try to tape everything up.

Installation doesn't sound too bad, messing with it on the bench was like a rubic cube.

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Old 06-29-2021, 11:47 AM
gto4evr gto4evr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Reid View Post
Can't answer the specifics of your questions but the sandblasting comment got my attention. I sandblasted the lower edge of my trunk lid about 15 years ago. To this day, every time I open the trunk a small bit of sand winds up right at the base of the back glass. It falls out of that tiny little hole at the front corner which is, I suppose, a drain hole?.
Moral - Tape up every single hole.

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ha...I was going to comment the same thing, and I DID tape up the holes (obviously not well enough) I'm 14 years on and sand still shows up on top of that tire cover every time I pop the lid. probably spent collectively 2 hours worth of air nozzle time at 100psi trying to blow that damn thing clean from every angle I could and it still comes out.

on the lock question, I find I need to tap the retainer plate with a hammer to get it to seat the last 1/4" or so.

and as far as the wiring, though I really dislike modifications, especially to wiring, do yourself a favor and cut the wire up by the back seat and install some fastons, so you don't have to try fishing that wire in and out of the lid. the wire pulls at an angle and can get hung up very easily on the connector and once it's stuck in there, you're not getting it back out.

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Old 06-29-2021, 01:12 PM
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Lock is easy. As mentioned above I had to tap in the retainer with a small hammer but no big deal.
Something I have noticed though is the lock cylinder gasket. There are two different versions being sold, only one that is correct for original locks. Around the inner circumference of the gasket there are two notches. With the generic gasket the notches are directly opposite of each other. The NOS or factory gasket has the notches offset from each other to match the cylinder, I think at the ten and two o'clock positions.

Trunk wiring can test your patience. I removed the connector and taped up the end. Ran it up the opening and then grabbed the end with a claw type retrieval tool. Keeping the trunk lid as low as possible helps a lot.
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Old 06-29-2021, 03:27 PM
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luckily I only have to run one wire. Think I might cut it and splice inside the protective cover, or use a small diameter inline connector in there.

I had a friend that was a pretty good backyard painter tell me to sand blast as little as possible of anything on the car .... that whenever he painted a car that had been blasted the gun always blows sand out of some crevice into the paint. But, I see no other way of getting rid of the rust in these nooks and crannies.

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