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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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Rocker Panel Adventure
I needed to do some welding in the area of the rocker panel so I decided to see if I could clean them out. Huge amount of mouse nesting, road dirt and some rust flakes came out in the 30 minutes I spent blasting in every hole with 100 psi air.
They are very solid with no exterior rust at all and I feel the inside is pretty freakin clean now as I worked at it till every particle came out. What should I treat the inside of them with now to prevent corrosion? Some of that Eastwood stuff with the long wand? If it was already painted I'd probably opt for something petroleum based but can't use that now for obvious reasons. Forgot who mentioned it, maybe Muslecar, but yeah it has an air flow system that goes all the way from kick panel vents to the front of the rear wheel well. I can see how that would be important to keep clean and dry as possible. |
#2
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I had a mouse nest or two in my rockers when I cleaned them out last year, too. Took a long time with compressed air and various air nozzle & wand attachments to get everything out. I also had an inconceivable amount of sandblasting media in there to get out.
Spraying with the Eastwood internal frame coating isn't a bad idea, although I didn't do anything myself yet. Once my car comes back from paint, I'll probably spray them with Fluid Film. I think the reason why I didn't use the Eastwood product in my rockers is because of my experience using it in my frame. It made a huge mess, and the tube which they provide was so difficult to work with that I don't think it provided a full 360 degree spray pattern as they advertise. Just not worth the trouble for me.
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild Last edited by ZeGermanHam; 05-31-2021 at 08:24 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to ZeGermanHam For This Useful Post: | ||
#3
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Pretty much the same experience I had with the Eastwood coating. Maybe I'll wait till it's painted and do something like fluid film, should last about forever in an enclosed area like that.
And .... thanks for the reminder about the sandblasting .... I'll tape up those holes before I blast. |
#4
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Yep, taping up holes is a good idea. It will reduce but by no means eliminate the amount of sand that gets into places. My floor braces were also loaded with sand. Another place it likes to collect is on the top of the rear wheel arches between the quarter panel and wheel housing. After an afternoon of blowing and vacuuming everything, I was able to get 99.9% of the sand out.
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
The Following User Says Thank You to ZeGermanHam For This Useful Post: | ||
#5
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I used the Eastwood frame coating inside my rockers, and also plan to spray undercoating oil (the thicker permanent kind) in there later as well.
Regarding the Eastwood spray hose with 360* tip that comes with the can, I also found it to be a PITA as the hose comes coiled and will not straighten out. I improved this by cutting the hose just behind the tip, then inserting a piece of mechanics wire inside the hose, then reinserting the tip into the hose. The mechanics wire was stiff enough that I could make the hose stay straight and still allow the coating to flow through the hose.
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Michael Oshawa built 1 option Judge basket case. 463, SD KRE 295's, CNC'd factory intake, Cliff's Qjet, Stump Puller HR cam, RARE RA manifolds, Pypes exhaust, T56 Magnum, McLeod RXT clutch, 3.42 12 bolt. 24 year project almost done... |
#6
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The only thing I’d use is 3M Cavity Wax so I already know I sound biased. Lol
After revisiting areas that were previously treated with the stuff, I really never have a need to search for something better. You can get tips that are nearly 3’ long and spray 360° in a cavity. 3M Cavity Wax Plus, 08852, 18 oz (511 g) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0741FHDPF...JDVXM72WRVFBK0 |
#7
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One thing I'd be concerned about is mouse pee - it can cause a lot of corrosion. I'd want to flush out the rockers to remove any residue left behind.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Stuart For This Useful Post: | ||
#8
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I jammed a power washer in the drain holes best I could, hopefully flushed out most of the mouse gifts.
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#9
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Quote:
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1969 GTO street strip project 11.1 forged 461, highport heads 1995 Trans-am 420 ci sb 14:1 compression 9"ford 9.89@132 1.34 60ft SOLD! |
#10
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The rockers have a factory designed ( Fisher body design) system called " Flush and Dry" . This used the higher pressure area at base of windscreen to push air at pressure through the front "air horns" to vents, and rockers. This would flush at rain, and dry at speed after. This is one of many reasons why the cars sit 1/2 to 1 inch LOWER in the back from the factory. Getting the water out that back rubber flap is key, having it downhill is very important.
I like the wax, which can flow into cracks, but the eastwood internal frame coating is thinner and has inhibitors that neutralize surface rust. That said; their applicator sucks. I use the SEM 71120 " Rust Preventer Aero Wand" on the Eastwood can. Its stiffer, doesn't curl, better dispersion end and its longer. I have used the wax after this dries, and used the fluid film or waxoil after it dries. Usually lift front of car and run water down it once car is drivable, and drive it dry. Using a dehumidifier and a storage lift can keep the car rust free for a long time.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
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