#381  
Old 07-19-2021, 08:21 PM
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Andretti Andretti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1 View Post
I made that hood prop bar a couple of projects back and it comes in handy. It's a piece of aluminum tubing with rubber walking cane tips on both ends.
Keep working at this pace and soon you'll be using that "Walking Cane prop bar".


Last edited by Andretti; 07-19-2021 at 08:27 PM.
  #382  
Old 07-22-2021, 06:58 PM
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I've been working on the door to fender gaps more and level matching as best as I can get at this point. I also mocked up both the GTO fender emblems as well as holding up the rocker moldings in place. Doing that showed me I needed to work both fenders a little more in the area where the patch panels were welded in. I used the shrinking disc some on both sides. On the passenger side fender, I had to twist the inside fender brace a little in order to get the rocker molding to sit flat. I also had to re-drill the holes on that fender for the emblem. They got welded up when I fixed the dent and the previous repair job there.

Here's the area where I welded to close the gap and correct the door to fender edge arc:



And after:





Welding shrinkage did cause the edge of the door to suck in a little which is normal. I used my slide hammer with this end on it to hook behind and pull back out.



Here's the rear door edge now after a little more adjustment on the level.
I make sure the door edge isn't any lower than the quarter panel as I don't want a very high build of primer at the edge. OK to have the quarter a bit lower though since it's not a problem to have a primer build up some there.



On the driver side, I did weld a very small amount to make the top of door edge match the fender arc perfectly.







I'm seeing a nice look down the sides of the car now even before primer:



I'm now happy with all the gaps and levels of the hood, fenders and doors and I'm calling them ready for primer. So now on to the nose and trunk lid next. I'm still waiting on the delivery of the 3M flexible filler for the nose so I'll start on fitting the trunk lid tomorrow.

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  #383  
Old 07-22-2021, 10:08 PM
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Looking good and neat tips of the trade. Thanks for sharing.

  #384  
Old 07-22-2021, 10:23 PM
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You do some amazing work Roger...great attention to detail. As mentioned, it will have better than factory tolerances.

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  #385  
Old 07-23-2021, 09:33 PM
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Nice. Love to see the attention to detail!

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  #386  
Old 07-24-2021, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andretti View Post
Keep working at this pace and soon you'll be using that "Walking Cane prop bar".
I hope to not take that long!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewster View Post
Looking good and neat tips of the trade. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Just a self trained hobbyist so I might not always do things the best way but proud to show how I do do things.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vertigto View Post
You do some amazing work Roger...great attention to detail. As mentioned, it will have better than factory tolerances.
Thank you! I'm really anal about gaps. When I go to car shows, I'd rather see a car with really nice panel gaps and levels with a some paint flaws than a car with poor gaps and a 100% perfect paint job. I don't know why but when I see something on a car like a bad gap or level, my eyes kind of stick there and won't move. A cockeyed emblem will do that to me too. A paint flaw doesn't do that to me. All restored cars that are driven some will get paint flaws over time but good gaps and levels will stay the same.
Quote:
Originally Posted by keith k View Post
Nice. Love to see the attention to detail!
Thanks. I'm glad my my time to do this documentation is appreciated.

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'69 GTO Convertible - Acquired October 2020. An all original project car. Restomod is underway PROJECT THREAD
'83 Chevy Choo Choo SS El Camino - LT1 350/4L60e, Owned for 30 Years, completed 2nd restomod in 2018 PHOTO
2019 BMW 440ix - Twin turbo I6, 8spd auto. PHOTO
'55 Chevy Bel Air Sport Coupe - Ram Jet 350 / T56 Magnum 6spd, Restomod Completed Sept. 2012, Sold Sept. 2021 PHOTO

Last edited by roger1; 07-24-2021 at 10:12 AM.
  #387  
Old 07-25-2021, 03:22 PM
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I hadn't posted any close-up photos of the nose fit yet.

It does look very good at a little distance:



But here are the areas that will need some filler:









I went back and re-read what Barry (owner of SPI) recommends for Endura bumpers (and he's done several of these). He recommends 4 coats of epoxy primer and it should be done before any filler is put on.

Since blasting the bumper left it a little blotchy looking (may have been the coal slag media I used), I I sanded it with a D/A everywhere I could get to and by hand everywhere else to get it all uniform looking. And then I wiped it down with waterborne W&G remover. After that, I put it out in the sun to speed up the evaporation of the W&G remover that soaked in. Barry recommends that if you are going to shoot the epoxy the next morning.

Here it is in the sun yesterday. I also took a few photos of what appears like cracks in the rubber.









After analyzing them closely, I don't believe these are cracks at all. You can't make the rubber move independently on each side of these cracks no matter what you do. I think this is what happens to the rubber from oxidation when the paint cracks and allows air to hit the rubber along the cracked paint. You can hit this rubber with a hammer and it won't crack. But the slightest flexing of the rubber cracks the factory paint and primer. Add time and you get the oxidized rubber that looks and might even feel like a crack but it's not.
That tells me these cracks don't need to be ground out in a V shape and filled. I've seen that stated and I disagree. The 4 coats of epoxy will be all that's required to cover them up.

I got the 4 coats on this morning. Waited 45 minutes between coats.
Wow! It seemed as if I was painting a sponge with the first coat! Starts looking good after the 3rd coat though. I can see why he recommends 4.





I sprayed the rear side too.



I'll let this cure for a couple of days before blocking and adding any filler. I had to re-order the 3M Automix 05887 flexible filler but it will be here tomorrow. The first order (AutoBodyToolmart) had it backordered until December and didn't let me know until I called and asked why I hadn't received it yet. I wont ever order from them again.

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'69 GTO Convertible - Acquired October 2020. An all original project car. Restomod is underway PROJECT THREAD
'83 Chevy Choo Choo SS El Camino - LT1 350/4L60e, Owned for 30 Years, completed 2nd restomod in 2018 PHOTO
2019 BMW 440ix - Twin turbo I6, 8spd auto. PHOTO
'55 Chevy Bel Air Sport Coupe - Ram Jet 350 / T56 Magnum 6spd, Restomod Completed Sept. 2012, Sold Sept. 2021 PHOTO
  #388  
Old 08-03-2021, 07:27 PM
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Default Got the nose fitted the way I want using flexible filler.

This is the 3M filler I used. I bought the applicator as well:



I did not use those mixing tubes came with since I only needed to use a little at a time. I did end up using more than 3/4 of this 200ml cartridge but about as much gets sanded off than stays on the nose.

First thing I did is apply some to the insides of both sides of the nose to stiffen it up some. The rubber flexed there more than I wanted.



I used masking tape behind it to help hold in the filler until it hardened.

So here it is all done. Quite a few hours of work.















After those photos, I removed the nose to smooth out the areas where I had squeezed in filler on the back side where the nose meets the fenders.

I also removed the passenger fender and mocked up the inner fender and A/C evaporator housing. I wanted to see why a previous owner cut a hole in the inner fender. I don't know why Pontiac assembles the car this way but they way that did it requires that the fender and inner fender to be removed just to get to one nut that is screwed onto a stud that holds the inner housing where the heater core is. So I made a modification. I removed the stud from the inner housing and then used JB Weld to attach a bolt to the outer housing. Problem solved. Now the nut will be on the inside and have easy access.



I am going to put in a new heater core. Even though it had been replaced in the past, it looked like it had been in there a long time. I'll replace the blower motor as well. I'd rather have new since the fender has to be removed to replace. Plus the wheel is rusted badly.

I took the outer housing apart and removed the evaporator. I'm going to replace it since it's the 52 year old original. Doesn't look like a whole lot of air could get through it. I bet the A/C wasn't working too well the last time it was used. I wonder if it was leaking slowly. Not sure how that oily dirt would get in there if it weren't.


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'69 GTO Convertible - Acquired October 2020. An all original project car. Restomod is underway PROJECT THREAD
'83 Chevy Choo Choo SS El Camino - LT1 350/4L60e, Owned for 30 Years, completed 2nd restomod in 2018 PHOTO
2019 BMW 440ix - Twin turbo I6, 8spd auto. PHOTO
'55 Chevy Bel Air Sport Coupe - Ram Jet 350 / T56 Magnum 6spd, Restomod Completed Sept. 2012, Sold Sept. 2021 PHOTO
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  #389  
Old 08-03-2021, 08:35 PM
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Wow, great fit on the Endura Bumper! When you headed up to Jersey to coach me on my ‘68 Resto? 😁

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  #390  
Old 08-03-2021, 09:44 PM
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Wow, great fit on the Endura Bumper! When you headed up to Jersey to coach me on my ‘68 Resto? 😁
Thanks!!
I don't think it's in the cards for me to go to Jersey so I guess you are going to have to move to San Angelo.

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'69 GTO Convertible - Acquired October 2020. An all original project car. Restomod is underway PROJECT THREAD
'83 Chevy Choo Choo SS El Camino - LT1 350/4L60e, Owned for 30 Years, completed 2nd restomod in 2018 PHOTO
2019 BMW 440ix - Twin turbo I6, 8spd auto. PHOTO
'55 Chevy Bel Air Sport Coupe - Ram Jet 350 / T56 Magnum 6spd, Restomod Completed Sept. 2012, Sold Sept. 2021 PHOTO
  #391  
Old 08-03-2021, 10:16 PM
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Fair enough, I’ll use this thread as a reference then. 😁

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68 GTO-Verdoro/Black/Black, what else was available in ‘68? Has to be longest resto in history.
69 GTO Vert-Liberty/Blue/White Top, 4spd, match #’s
68 Mustang FB-Green/Black (Bullitt)
  #392  
Old 08-04-2021, 07:21 AM
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Yeah Rodger, maybe you could give a class on how to install a endura bumper??? My gaps are 1/2-5/8 easily and I spent hours. Mind you my first A-body but still wtf???? Ugh

  #393  
Old 08-04-2021, 08:31 AM
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I'm waiting for the painting process, so hurry up, I want you to get there before I make any mistakes

  #394  
Old 08-04-2021, 11:17 AM
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Thanks!!
I don't think it's in the cards for me to go to Jersey so I guess you are going to have to move to San Angelo.
I’ll put in a second request for New Jersey. Great looking work!!! Marc

  #395  
Old 08-05-2021, 09:38 AM
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I will fly you to MA and provide 4-star accommodations if you'll align my nose JUST. LIKE. THAT.....LOL

  #396  
Old 08-05-2021, 11:36 AM
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Thanks to all you guys for your comments. Really, I wish I could help each one of you. All I can say is it's not particularly hard but it takes patience and quite a bit of time. OTOH, I'm working on a car where the car has never taken an impact to the front and that could make a huge difference.
I say take the job on, post a thread and ask for help along the way.

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'69 GTO Convertible - Acquired October 2020. An all original project car. Restomod is underway PROJECT THREAD
'83 Chevy Choo Choo SS El Camino - LT1 350/4L60e, Owned for 30 Years, completed 2nd restomod in 2018 PHOTO
2019 BMW 440ix - Twin turbo I6, 8spd auto. PHOTO
'55 Chevy Bel Air Sport Coupe - Ram Jet 350 / T56 Magnum 6spd, Restomod Completed Sept. 2012, Sold Sept. 2021 PHOTO
  #397  
Old 08-05-2021, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1 View Post
Really, I wish I could help each one of you.
After watching you do yours... I'm confident with enough patience and practice I could totally do it. I'm sure your pictures of a bad quarter panel followed by a 95% done quarter followed by a ready for paint quarter panel took around 10+ hours of work that isn't reflected. And that you get better at it the more you try!

I have a '71 I need to fix the quarters on and your thread gives me confidence in my ability to learn and fix it and eventually paint it... provided my body holds up ;-)

Great work, that nose is amazingly well fit. I would almost say "better than factory" fit!

  #398  
Old 08-05-2021, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben M. View Post
After watching you do yours... I'm confident with enough patience and practice I could totally do it. I'm sure your pictures of a bad quarter panel followed by a 95% done quarter followed by a ready for paint quarter panel took around 10+ hours of work that isn't reflected. And that you get better at it the more you try!
I have a '71 I need to fix the quarters on and your thread gives me confidence in my ability to learn and fix it and eventually paint it... provided my body holds up ;-)
Great work, that nose is amazingly well fit. I would almost say "better than factory" fit!
Thank you! I'm so glad to be able to help people like you with my detailed explanations and photos.
I know what you mean about body holding up. Doing those quarters killed my lower back by leaning over while sitting on a rolling stool for so many days. I bought a contraption that rolls while resting you your knees. It was better but I think I found a good solution in a new creeper I just bought. It's called the 2-up and both ends can tilt up allowing a sit just above the floor with back support and legs stretched out. I wished I had had this when doing the quarters.
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'69 GTO Convertible - Acquired October 2020. An all original project car. Restomod is underway PROJECT THREAD
'83 Chevy Choo Choo SS El Camino - LT1 350/4L60e, Owned for 30 Years, completed 2nd restomod in 2018 PHOTO
2019 BMW 440ix - Twin turbo I6, 8spd auto. PHOTO
'55 Chevy Bel Air Sport Coupe - Ram Jet 350 / T56 Magnum 6spd, Restomod Completed Sept. 2012, Sold Sept. 2021 PHOTO
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  #399  
Old 08-09-2021, 08:38 PM
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That is a nice creeper. Wonder if it's available with heat and massage?

  #400  
Old 08-13-2021, 12:05 PM
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It took 3 months plus 1 week to get but it finally got here today:













Art acquired and sent everything I should need including a Lokar throttle bracket specifically made for the Edelbrock ProFlo 4 and a Lokar TV cable.

I got a few things done few days while I've been waiting for the transmission to get here.
Figured out a way to mount my coil. The original bracket won't work with the Edelbrock intake. I found something cheap that worked perfectly. It's a #4 rigid conduit holder. I used one to mount the fuel filter on the frame rail too. I've used them on a few other cars in the past too but never for a coil. I bet no one ever notices it's not an automotive part.

I also did a failed test with the Parchment vinyl dye paint that I bought from Ames in order to paint my new headrests to match my interior. I talked to Ames on phone about the match before I bought the cans and they guy said even though they make the paint to match the PUI brand of interior I should be able to match the Legendary as well. Well no. It's not really even close. Just way too yellow. So, I did what I should have done in the first place and call the place Legendary recommends called Kolor Korrect. The woman I talked to was very helpful in knew all the answers. Expensive though. $280 but it is guaranteed to match. I ordered pints instead of spray cans. She says if you are a painter, the pints are a better way to go. She also confirmed my choice. Legendary is hands down the better quality interior versus PUI.



I installed the ARP stainless bolts for the intake manifold and the valve covers. I did get the new valve covers from Ames but I decided not to put them on now. Better to wait until one of the last things to avoid getting any scratches in them. I neatened up the spark plug wire routing too. I also installed a new Milodon 180 thermostat.





Tomorrow I plan to bolt up the transmission to the engine. I figured I should read all the instructions that Art sent first so I will do that this evening. My wife did help me lift the transmission over the frame rail and onto the transmission jack. Good to go but I will need to raise the frame up a bit to get the engine high enough.

Hey Roger, I’m curious which level Art Carr 200r4 you went with. It looks like you got one with the bop bolt pattern so you don’t need the adapter plate. Do you know if 200r4 requires and ‘massaging’ of the floor pan/braces? Thanks and keep up the stellar work!

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