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Old 07-12-2021, 08:39 AM
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Default Trunk Lid vibration damping

Now that I've gotten all the old, cracked, hardened vibration damping stuff out of my trunk lid ... how are people getting some back in there? Unlike the hood there really isn't a way to do it except the various holes in trunk bracing.

Some kind of expanding foam .. which hopefully would not push a bow into the lid?

Right now I can slap the trunk lid and you can hear it bang down on the inner braces ... imagine that would be pretty loud on the road.

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Old 07-12-2021, 08:44 PM
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3M 04274 NVH foam.

Comes in twin tube cartridge and requires special gun. Expensive, but works well. Squirt some in between panels, press down once to make sure both panels are touching foam, then let it sit in its normal until foam sets up.

This product doesn't expand so much that it will warp panels, but I think you should get it installed before starting any block sanding.

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Old 07-12-2021, 11:04 PM
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Don't use great stuff. I've seen poor results when that junk is used for bracing.

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Old 07-13-2021, 03:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrennie View Post
3M 04274 NVH foam.

Comes in twin tube cartridge and requires special gun. Expensive, but works well. Squirt some in between panels, press down once to make sure both panels are touching foam, then let it sit in its normal until foam sets up.

This product doesn't expand so much that it will warp panels, but I think you should get it installed before starting any block sanding.
The big question for me is how to get it in the right spots. The holes are in the channels which are close to 1" away from the outside surface panel, that's a lot of space to fill before it gets to the deck lid. Might be able to jam a long thin nozzle in one of the holes far enough to get to an area where the lid and the bracing almost (or do) touch.

Is that the same product I would probably use for hood, roof, etc. ?


Last edited by dataway; 07-13-2021 at 03:33 AM.
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Old 07-13-2021, 06:31 AM
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You could try to attach a piece of hose to the end of the tube ,,,,like aquarium tubing or similar
And yes same stuff for hoods roof ....I used a similar product from Wurth....

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Old 07-13-2021, 07:10 AM
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Just a heads up I tried using the nvh foam on.my decklid and it caused highspots everywhere I applied it, not severe at all but enough that I had to work it a bit so make sure you do that before you start applying any filler. I used very little about the size of a penny. I'm sure the decklid has more slack in it then it did from the factory and I'm also sure the factory didn't care if it caused a small ripple either lol. If I had to do it again and I had already done the body work I might try 3m urathane seam sealer.

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Old 07-13-2021, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrennie View Post
3M 04274 NVH foam.

Comes in twin tube cartridge and requires special gun. Expensive, but works well. Squirt some in between panels, press down once to make sure both panels are touching foam, then let it sit in its normal until foam sets up.

This product doesn't expand so much that it will warp panels, but I think you should get it installed before starting any block sanding.
Missed his response, right on the money

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Old 07-13-2021, 12:25 PM
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Wonder if I should flip it right side up and weight it after applying the foam? I've got one of those weighted blankets, like 20 lbs that would provide an even weight over the surface.

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Old 07-13-2021, 03:21 PM
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You might be ok, I definitely had some slack in mine even though it was arrow straight.Is yours tight? If there is movement, weighing it down would probably give you a valley.

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Old 07-13-2021, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
Wonder if I should flip it right side up and weight it after applying the foam? I've got one of those weighted blankets, like 20 lbs that would provide an even weight over the surface.
I wouldn't do anything that changes the natural shape or it may take the wrong shape. IMO this stuff is not at all like "spray foam" that expands and applies pressure, it just turns from 2 liquids to a foamy substance upon mixing. My suggestion to push the panels together after applying the foam will ensure full contact and reduce the likelihood of it applying unexpected pressure.

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Old 07-13-2021, 05:36 PM
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Right now there is slack in it ... feels like about 1/4" between the deck lid and the braces in the middle.

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Old 07-13-2021, 05:57 PM
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On my 69 there is about 1/4 inch gap at the tightest area from the beacing to the skin. I applied maybe the size of a penny or dime (small squirt) into the area where the spoiler would bolt up and that was enough to add some support in my application.

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Old 07-13-2021, 09:46 PM
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Flutter Foam….from SEM

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Old 07-14-2021, 06:33 AM
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Flutter Foam….from SEM
That's the brand I used

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Old 07-14-2021, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
Right now there is slack in it ... feels like about 1/4" between the deck lid and the braces in the middle.
Your ovah thinking this again….just put the SEM Flutter foam in the gaps and call it good

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Old 07-14-2021, 12:22 PM
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I'm going to have to try a hose on the nozzle then, unless I want to fill up an entire channel with foam.

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Old 07-23-2021, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
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I'm going to have to try a hose on the nozzle then, unless I want to fill up an entire channel with foam.
I tried that with the 3m stuff and what happens is as the stuff is mixed together in the nozzle it starts to harden very soon and plugs the hose. it hardens in minutes so you need to go fast. it was very frustrating as half the tube was waisted just filling the hose. FYI I'm not sure if 3m makes a slower curing foam or not?

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Old 07-27-2021, 11:45 AM
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The hood of my 62 catalina is also very oil-canny and its because much of the sealer has cracked apart over the last 60 years. I am going to use urethane windshield sealer around the bracing.

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