[KGTO]

Does anyone have tips or suggestions for adding the ram air kit for a 1970 non ram air engine?

Been searching but not finding much surprisingly. I did see that the bolts that come with it for the upper pan are a touch long and can dimple the hood.

I thought I'd call Ames and speak with them too.

[mrennie]

I did this on my car, the original parts were missing and I bought a repro hood so I also had to make the bracing cuts, which is all the same that you would need to do.

Ames sells a vinyl "sticker" that you lay onto your hood and mark the sections that need cutting out. I did the cut with a 3" cutoff disc, all went well. I was careful with the sticker and was able to put it back on the backing sheet and sell to someone else at a discount.

I looked at the kit from Ames and while it has a lot of parts, there were some that were not included and would need to be sourced separately. I ended up getting a more complete kit from Warpath Restoration Parts who made a lot of the parts themselves (not sure if they are still around and selling directly).

As far as installing the system, if you have an assembly manual it is fairly straightforward. Without it, it would be a challenge. I installed all the hood parts while the hood was off, which made things much easier to see and saved my back from much pain! Your are right about the screws for the upper pan. They need to be short, and are available from AMK fasteners (Ames may sell them too). AMK # B-11107 5/16" x 5/8" same as GM 9422232.

Drilling the firewall for the grommet and installing the cable will be a PITA on an assembled car. I did that part prior to installing the dash and fenders.

The lower pan and hoses all installed OK except my lower pan would not fully seat on the Qjet. The rolled lip around the pan opening was a bit wide and was holding the pan up, so I had to use a rounded body hammer to reshape it slightly, this messed up the finish but once installed it cannot be seen and I thought was a better choice that grinding on my replated Qjet!!

The plastic hood scoops needed some sanding/grinding to properly fit in the hood openings. Being plastic, I followed all the recommended steps and used special scuffing paste followed by adhesion promoter, then epoxy primer, then paint.

Let me know if you have more questions.

[KGTO]

Originally Posted by mrennie

I did this on my car, the original parts were missing and I bought a repro hood so I also had to make the bracing cuts, which is all the same that you would need to do.

Ames sells a vinyl "sticker" that you lay onto your hood and mark the sections that need cutting out. I did the cut with a 3" cutoff disc, all went well. I was careful with the sticker and was able to put it back on the backing sheet and sell to someone else at a discount.

I looked at the kit from Ames and while it has a lot of parts, there were some that were not included and would need to be sourced separately. I ended up getting a more complete kit from Warpath Restoration Parts who made a lot of the parts themselves (not sure if they are still around and selling directly).

As far as installing the system, if you have an assembly manual it is fairly straightforward. Without it, it would be a challenge. I installed all the hood parts while the hood was off, which made things much easier to see and saved my back from much pain! Your are right about the screws for the upper pan. They need to be short, and are available from AMK fasteners (Ames may sell them too). AMK # B-11107 5/16" x 5/8" same as GM 9422232.

Drilling the firewall for the grommet and installing the cable will be a PITA on an assembled car. I did that part prior to installing the dash and fenders.

The lower pan and hoses all installed OK except my lower pan would not fully seat on the Qjet. The rolled lip around the pan opening was a bit wide and was holding the pan up, so I had to use a rounded body hammer to reshape it slightly, this messed up the finish but once installed it cannot be seen and I thought was a better choice that grinding on my replated Qjet!!

The plastic hood scoops needed some sanding/grinding to properly fit in the hood openings. Being plastic, I followed all the recommended steps and used special scuffing paste followed by adhesion promoter, then epoxy primer, then paint.

Let me know if you have more questions.

Thank you for that! Very helpful indeed. Since this car didn't have it as an option I'm thinking of not doing the complete kit with the flapper/cable. Though it would look more legit. Now that the engine is back in I assumed it would be a pain to get it done "factory correct" which is how I'd do it.

How much of the hood bracing gets cut? This has to be done in order for the pan to sit properly on the hood, correct?

Doesn't look like Warpath is still around, looks like Butler may have rights to some parts though.

[mrennie]

Post #7 in the thread below shows a good picture of what needs to be cut. The cuts are needed so the flapper assembly can be installed and for the pan to seal.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=843373

[KGTO]

Question(s):

-Does it matter to included the cable/flappers/heat actuators if not going after OE look?
-Does the hood still need to be cut if you don't install the flappers/seal?
-The RA III upper pan should have only one heat actuator and the RAIV had two I thought? I don't see the options in the Ames catalog.

Considering doing the full kit with cable and heat since the cable is unique and it all then has the OE look which is what we are after.

[KGTO]

Question(s):

-Does it matter to included the cable/flappers/heat actuators if not going after OE look?
-Does the hood still need to be cut if you don't install the flappers/seal?
-The RA III upper pan should have only one heat actuator and the RAIV had two I thought? I don't see the options in the Ames catalog.

Considering doing the full kit with cable and heat since the cable is unique and it all then has the OE look which is what we are after.

[KGTO]

Ames helped me on the heat actuator, I guess the all had two but the RAIII cars only had one duct as opposed to two on the RAIV cars

Does anyone have an assembly manual that shows the location of the hole in the firewall for the cable? I assume there should be a dimple in the firewall to locate it.

[KGTO]

Ames helped me on the heat actuator, I guess the all had two but the RAIII cars only had one duct as opposed to two on the RAIV cars

Does anyone have an assembly manual that shows the location of the hole in the firewall for the cable? I assume there should be a dimple in the firewall to locate it.