[The Champ]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

I think you are a bit off.....

And you are a lot more than a "bit off" when comparing a Fram racing filter with a junk Fram PH25....

[nikrnic]

Definitely not a fram. Lee and Napa gold are good ones

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[#1965GTO]

Our car, 65 cloned GTO, has a 68 400 and has RAM Air exhaust with 2 1/2" pipe. To gain a little clearance from the exhaust I use the NAPA #1522 Gold or old reliable PF61E from AC. Either one seems to work perfectly and you can get the ACs from Rockauto for less than $4. I usually get a couple for each of our cars when ever I order something else that's coming from the same warehouse.
Good luck
Dennis

[Lloyd-TX]

Wix all the way for me, on ALL of my vehicles.

51049 Wix or 1049 NAPA Gold for the "one quart" filter, or 51258 Wix or 1258 NAPA Gold for the 1/2 quart flavor.

[Steve C.]

For further entertainment here.....

A WIX racing filter might have a nominal micron rating of 61. Their typical street filter might be 21 microns. How about limited street use, with frequent oil & filter changes, is 61 microns enough to the dirty deed ?

61 microns is about .002". The average human hair is about 70 microns wide. Most can see with the naked eye about 40 microns, and talculm powder is about 10 microns.

Efficient Oil Filtration, should we worry about microns.....

https://www.carjunky.com/news/motor_oil/mom7.shtml


.

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by Steve C.

For further entertainment here.....

A WIX racing filter might have a nominal micron rating of 61. Their typical street filter might be 21 microns. How about limited street use, with frequent oil & filter changes, is 61 microns enough to the dirty deed ?

61 microns is about .002". The average human hair is about 70 microns wide. Most can see with the naked eye about 40 microns, and talculm powder is about 10 microns.

Efficient Oil Filtration, should we worry about microns.....

https://www.carjunky.com/news/motor_oil/mom7.shtml.

Excellent information that confirms exactly what I've been saying on PY for the last 5-6 years. Sub 15 micron particulate causes 70% of engine wear, reducing that down to 1-2 microns at 96% efficiency with the first pass is going to make a huge difference in engine, and oil longevity.

The full flow filters will never give you that efficiency at a 1-2 micron level, a by pass filter will definitely filter to a much higher standard at a very high efficiency rate.

The argument that changing oil and full flow filters is sufficient isn't true if you want to virtually stop engine wear, because the filter never removes the solids that cause the majority of engine wear. From the minute you start the engine with fresh oil and filter the small particulate (sub15 micron) is multiplying inside of the fresh oil and the full flow filter can't remove it. The longer the oil is in the engine the higher percentage the content becomes, the more the engine parts wear.

By pass filtration filters remove the sub 15 micron particle from the minute the engine is started until you replace the media in the filter. The oil stays clean and there is no need to keep draining oil and refilling it because the filter never lets the concentration of fine particulate escalate. Kept clean the additives don't get used up and the oil doesn't oxidize as when it's dirty. The molecule chains last much longer in the base oil so it can run much longer kept clean that running with the small particulate constantly multiplying. The additives are given a boost by the fresh quart of oil added when the by pass media is changed so the additives stay at a safe level throughout the oil fill.

This is how OTR trucks run over a million miles between engine overhauls, they don't depend on full flow filtration to keep the fine solids out of the oil, they use by pass filtration. In my years as a mechanic I never remember of any automobile/light truck engines ever seeing 500,000 miles without an engine overhaul, many never see 200,000 even with changing oil and filters religiously at 3,000 miles. A full flow filter is a cheap half assed attempt at keeping oil clean and an engine from wearing out prematurely. There are better filtration systems out there that do a much better job.

Investing in a better filtration system actually pays back the investment in a few years of oil and filter expenditures. That doesn't even factor in reduced engine wear and added reliability. Best part is you can remove the system and transfer it to a different vehicle if you change vehicles, in probably less than an hour.

[nikrnic]

NO to fram. been bad for years. For what your doing I would say you cant go wrong with a Wix or Napa Gold.

[64speed]

350,000 miles on my Yukon on original trans and 5.3. Ac delco PF61E and valvoline oil

[Sirrotica]

That isn't a million miles just 1/3 of a million, let me know when you get to 500,000 and do a compression check too. I'm sure the engine won't be ready to go another 500,000. with proper filtration that engines life could be extended to twice where it's worn out without a proper filter system.

OTR trucks are moving up to 80,000 lbs. and still make a million miles easily, your Yukon probably has a trailer behind it how often, towing how much?

It's in that article that Steve C posted, all down in black and white, if you choose to ignore it that's on you.

[Steve C.]

For me it's a 'hobby car' and limited driving. With a frequent synthetic oil & filter change in conjunction with the limited, fair weather only, no dusty roads and mostly open highway cruising personally I'm not going to worry about any limited wear with a good WIX filter. But that's my personal view based my use.


.

[64speed]

I actually tow a lot with the Yukon mostly a boat and recently a trailer with my Tempest on it.

[locomotivebreath]

Does anyone have any experience or input on the royal purple oil filters ? I’ve seen them and they appear to have a really thick case .

[64speed]

I have used a royal purple oil filter once on a 2007 GMC 1500 that I had. Parts place sold me the wrong filter so I put the old filter back on and drove up to exchange it. Got the right one dropped the old filter in the parking lot and installed the royal purple dry. As soon as I cranked it the data center flashed check oil pressure and I panicked and shut it off. Waited cranked it back up same message and no oil pressure. Finally I started it and let it run like 30 seconds and the needle jumped and the message went away and everything was fine. I don’t know what any of that was.

[leeklm]

Originally Posted by Steve C.

For me it's a 'hobby car' and limited driving. With a frequent synthetic oil & filter change in conjunction with the limited, fair weather only, no dusty roads and mostly open highway cruising personally I'm not going to worry about any limited wear with a good WIX filter. But that's my personal view based my use.


.

Where I live, most vehicles rust away and the frames break in half before we hit 300k miles! True story for my buddies 2002 Tacoma! Tire shop lifted it up, and the bed folded like a pretzel. But it ran great...

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[Steve C.]

I owned a Camry that I gave to my son in law after I was tired of it. He sold it with well over 300,000 miles on it and it was still running fine. Both of us did nothing but use regular store bought oil filters.


.

[Sirrotica]

Still a bunch less than 1,000,000 miles. Your also constantly losing engine efficiency because of the 70% higher wear rate.

Is there a reason that people have an aversion to using a more efficient oil filter over the standard issue? I'd like to know the rationale behind everyone digging their heels in when it's mentioned saying, "I been doing it like my dad did, and if it was good enough for him, it's good enough for me too". Your dad used a land line phone too, no computers, it doesn't stop anyone from using better technology today, yet they damn sure wouldn't ever modernize their oil filter system....

Timing chains and gears, cams, lifters, rings, bearings, cylinder walls and about every other wear part in an engine would go about 70% further with a better filter system. Hard to understand the reasoning

I was at 2 of the local pic a parts a few weeks ago. There were plenty of unwrecked cars with under 125,000 miles in the yards with junk engines, so they don't all run forever. With over 45 years of twisting wrenches as my living, I've seen plenty of engines expired before the body was to bad to drive any further, and I grew up in the center of the rust belt, Erie PA. Cars rust away faster in Erie and around the Great Lakes faster than most other areas that have cold winters.

FWIW, Mike and Eric, owners of the Boss Bird have adopted a 5 micron filter dual can system in the dry sump system to minimize wear in their Nitro engine, ya think there might be a reason they have ventured into a better filter system? Talk about an application that just gets 1/4 mile on it between engine tear downs, and new oil and filters after every 1/4 mile.

There is an advantage to filtering engine oil to a very high standard in every application, and your oil lasts a minimum of 3 times longer with a more efficient oil filter system, I run mine at least 35,000 miles usually over 3 years on it, extending the oil change interval will pay for a better system on a street driven car in roughly 3 years.........

[The Champ]

Brad

I fully believe that your high performance filter is superior to OE filters.

But it is 100% overkill for 99% of the car owners out there - myself included. I keep my vehicles a long time - surpassed 200,000 miles on vehicles many times (first one was a 1979 Pontiac Grand LeMans). So far, I've never taken a vehicle over 250,000 miles.

I use quality oil and a quality conventional filter.

As to "unwrecked cars with under 125,000 miles in the yards with junk engines" - I fully believe that too.

But I'd bet dollars to donuts many of those had an owner like I knew when I was stationed in Germany. A buddy over there asked me if he should change the oil on his AMC Gremlin before he shipped it back to the states. I asked him "When is the last time you changed the oil?". He responded, "I never have.". He had been driving the car for 3 years.

[Cliff R]

Far as engine wear is concerned you are far more likely to wear one out not paying attention to air filtration that oil. The amount of abrasives entering the combustion space is the big factor in wearing these engines out far before they should be.

Do you think they are making these new engines out of different materials than they used to? Air filtration was very poor on these older engines and the first time the air filter base got removed the gasket was torn or left out and they started sucking unfiltered air directly into the engine. Not to mention the throttle shafts were loose and continued to get looser providing a nice vacuum leak for unfiltered air to get into the intake system

Cripe, many small commercial engines don't even have an oil pump, oil filter, etc and will last for decades without any problems whatsoever related to oil filtration. Take the same engine and poke a small hole in the air filter housing inside the filter element and see how many years you get out of it!........Cliff

[Steve C.]

Another point we all know with today's automakers building more efficient vehicles that put out fewer emissions the old standard of changing oil every 3000 miles is overkill.


.

[Cliff R]

Good point Steve. 200 hours is fine for oil change intervals provided you are doing all the maintenance which includes a clean air filter. That is closer to 10,000-11,000 miles for a vehicle than 3000-5000.

I prefer to split the difference with my own vehicles and change the oil once a year or about 7000-7500 miles, whichever comes first. Of course if you live on a dirt road or very dusty/dirty conditions, LOTS of idle time, or pretty much all start and stop driving you may want to tighten that deal up some.......Cliff