[Dick Boneske]

Originally Posted by #1965GTO

I have to assume that you are running a dual feed Holly. Check the end of the dual feed line to make sure it not cracked. Of course there is a gasket between the float bowl and adaptor. If there is a leak at either of these places and a new gasket doesn't fix it get new line set if there is a crack. Sealant isn't made to repair cracks in the line or fittings. Hey it's cheaper than and engine fire.

This is a Tripower Forum. Some of it applies to fuel fittings in general, including Holley carbs. But most of the comments are directly about Pontiac Tripower setups.

[#1965GTO]

Thanks there Warrior. The link that I received on line didn't show the general topic of tri power. Maybe you can contact the administrator and fix that....

[Bobalong]

Those flare fitting gaskets look like a great fix, never had seen them before.

My Quadrajet wouldn't stop the occasional drip at the inlet. A little lube on the threads (as someone else suggested)
fixed the problem.

I also have a Holly, same problem. My HVAC buddy told me to loosen the flare fitting, take some teflon plumbers string stuff
and wrap the back side of the flair, couple of wraps, then screw the compression nut down on the stuff and tighten.
It just gives a little extra push on the flare.
Worked for me.

Proceed at your own risk.

[#1965GTO]

I guess if you don't mind the smell of gas inside your car, and remember those drips turn into a fine mist that will eventually burn your car down. Do it right you won't try Teflon or so sealant on a flared brake line, I hope. How much will it cost to fix it correctly and safely, less than the cost of a fire I think....

[Fullback66]

Originally Posted by Kenth

The flare may not been seated properly.
Try loosen the nut and put a drop of engine oil under the nut before tighten it, tighten and loosening the nut a couple of times and tighten the last time just a little more (no gorilla arms) to seat the flare.
I always get them drip-free this way.

FWIW

I will give this a try.

Not sure where under the nut is? I think I have an idea.

FB66

[Greg Reid]

He means where the flare is in contact with the nut. The grease/oil will allow the nut to turn without galling the outside edge of the flare and twisting the line.

[Fullback66]

Well the rear float stuck today. Waterfalls. I am down to 2 leaks out of 6.
This BLOWS!
FB66

[Kenth]

Originally Posted by Fullback66

Well the rear float stuck today. Waterfalls. I am down to 2 leaks out of 6.
This BLOWS!
FB66

This can and will happen if float drops too far from correct setting.

[mike w]

This topic has probably been covered fine. But, let me summarize. I have done many tripower restorations over the years. Installed nearly 500 inserts (into the airhorn,) to replace worn out fuel inlet threads. I find many (close to half,) of the fuel inlet threads I check needing replacement. Brass fittings also wear, so I try a new fitting prior to replacing the threads in the airhorn.

Most, if not all, of this is covered in a section of the video here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urY_zSA71mM

I should add that the rear fuel fitting shown in the video did not tighten up, as it should have. I had to install new fuel inlet threads in that airhorn. I have a special fixture that mounts on the drill press. It holds the airhorn at the correct angle as it is prerpared for new threads. The insert is a barrel type, not a Helicoil. The drill press has a digital read out, which allows for better installation of the inserts.

I tighten the lines ( the ones with flares,) snug, then 1/4 turn, or less. Sometimes this is not sufficient to stop fuel leaks. So, when starting car first time, I place a towel under each fitting. Then, start car and let it run a few seconds, checking each fitting for leaks. If a leak is detected, tighten fitting another 1/8 turn, or so. All this to avoid over tightening the line and ruining the flare.

If I have provided this service (replacing fuel inlet threads,) to you, please feel free to comment.

Thanks..Mike

[Fullback66]

Thanks for all the help guys. There are no more leaks.
Time to Cruise!
FB66

[avman]

When I installed the 3 Rochester 2bbl carbs after having them restored by All American Carburetors I found that the brass fitting on the center and rear carbs would not point in the right direction to connect to the fuel line if screwed in until snug or tight. I used yellow paste liquid pipe dope on the threads of those fittings only, making sure to wipe any off of the threads closest to the fuel bowl.
After about 3 days of driving, we took the car to the quarter mile dragstrip and the rear fitting developed a leak.
NOT THE FLARED FITTING for the fuel line, but the threaded fitting that screws into the fuel bowl.
What is the best way to fix that? New brass fitting? Rethread the carb? Or some kind of thread sealant?

[Dick Boneske]

If the fitting is bottomed and still leaks, the 1/8" NPT threads in the carb are stretched due to overtightening in the past. the best fix is to install a thread insert. I can do that for you and I know John Wright at Mike's Tripowers does this as a service.

[avman]

Originally Posted by Dick Boneske

If the fitting is bottomed and still leaks, the 1/8" NPT threads in the carb are stretched due to overtightening in the past. the best fix is to install a thread insert. I can do that for you and I know John Wright at Mike's Tripowers does this as a service.

Thanks Dick. I wish I would have sent them to you to begin with, but I gathered info and made what I thought was the best choice at the time.
The problem, to be clear, is that if I "bottom" the brass fitting to where it doesn't go in any further because of the edge of the angled part of the fitting contacting the body of the carburetor, it points in the wrong direction. It may very well be the problem that you say.
I just wanted to be clear.

[mike w]

Follow this link. This is what you need. Or call me.. Mike Wasson (309) 360-6385

[mike w]

http://www.pontiactripower.com/shop/...arbs-1957-1966

Sorry..here is link..

[avman]

Thanks Mike! Will do!

[avman]

I used this LocTite product last night on the fuel fitting that was leaking where it threads into the carb body.
Ran it this morning and NO LEAKS!
The package specifies that it can be used, amongst other things, as a FUEL FITTING thread sealant.
Not disputing the sage advice given here, and I will have the threads/fittings fixed to where they are both TIGHT and CLOCKED PROPERLY (if I am correct about what to expect Mike?? Let me know if I am understanding what that repair does)
My wife wants to use the car today for some friends from out of town who are visiting, so I needed an immediate "fix". If it fails, I will follow up.

[Greg Reid]

You just gave me a flashback.... 35 years ago, my wife just had to go somewhere in my '68 GTO that had a fuel fitting leak at the filter... the common quadrajet inlet thread leak.... and my car burned to the ground.

[avman]

I took the car for a spirited drive after warming the engine up. No leaks. Did some idle mixture screws adjustments on the center carb, no leaks. Took about a 45 minute ride around the neighborhood, no leaks, and followed that with a final spirited drive, NO LEAKS.
After the chassis dyno performance test and A/F ratio data collection, I will get with Mike and along with the build data and dyno data get the fittings fixed, probably have the carbs rejetted, do whatever tuning is needed and then determine if the Rochesters stay or eventually get replaced by the $8,000 Rochester look alike fuel injection system. If it was my car, I would use the direct port injection/throttle plate system at $5,000, but of course my wife wants it to "look like" a Tripower, and that means using this system which costs $3,000 more than the F&B direct port injection system, in the finish that really does make it look like 3 Rochesters:
http://autotrendefi.com/efi-2g.html
Hopefully I will (and she will) be happy with the Rochesters once I am finished with Mike and tuning afterwards.

[Geoff]

Yes, that pipe sealant is brilliant stuff. Just make sure you apply it to the second thread & back, not the first thread, to avoid any getting into the needle & seat.