[NeighborsComplaint]

Looking at buying an EFI kit and can buy Holley 55-510K (polished) and Fitech EasyGo Street 31005 (gold) for the same price. Prefer the gold anodized to the Holley's polished finish (which if like their carbs, starts discoloring overnight).

Seems like the most common complaint complaint is with lack of FiTech support. Some who have swapped FiTech for Holley and claim that while the car ran fine with the FiTech, they found the Holley provided better drivability with minimal tuning input. Others claimed the FiTech system never "settled down" and was constantly learning and recalibrating itself in use long after initial start up.

What's been your experience?

[cgeise]

Have heard of issues with Fitech -- never run them have done 3 diff Holley systems and all run great

[djustice]

I was initially set on Fitech, but when holley answerd the competition with the price matched Sniper, i went with a 4bbl sniper kit.
landed on 550-511K kit Black ceramic.

Initially there where som hurdles that had to be dealt with, especially RFI/EMI when the car got to operating temperature i had to open the hood and remove the air cleaner if any of those items where even close to the 4bbl it was like shutting it off with a key. turns out i needed more resistance in my sparkplug wires. This was when i added the sniper CD ignition box and coil, it put out A LOT more spark!

That beeing said i personally have been adding a lot to the sniper kit to get it operating the way i think it should.


This includes inline 0-100 PSI fuel pressure gauge with adapter , a 4-hole spacer to eliminate whisling, 1 point hotter sparkplugs to combat pinging from the improved spark from CD box , a canbus splitter cable to hook up both the handheld and a usb to plug into a laptop. If you go timing control you will need to build the timing table on a pc.
And i really should remove the buildt in fuelpressure regulator and mount a standalone one from holley or aeromotive.
And also a fuel pump block off plate.

you will also need about double the length of fuel line that is in the kit to make a return line.

On top of this adding a returnline to the stock gas tank did not go as planned, so opted for a complete efi conversion tank with buildt in pump.

For me the Sniper has now been trouble free and i dayli drive the car in the summer season, it is just start and go, no stalling or baying the throttle under warmup, and i am gradually tuning the AFR up under high vacuum conditions to get better fuel economy out of the kit.

[grivera]

I have a Sniper 55-510 in my 69 Bird with Hyperspark dizzy/CD box/coil; timing controlled by ECU. The fuel system is a Tanks Inc EFI tank with 255 lph Walbro pump, 1/2" supply/return lines using the regulator built into the TB. Currently it runs great - start the car easily in any weather no matter how long it sits. That being said, it took work to get here but Holley support was outstanding.

The first Holley Sniper I bought lasted 30 minutes before ECU died - replaced under warranty no questions asked. The replacement (current) Sniper suffered from RFL?EMI and took some work to fix with high resistance spark plugs, multiple heavy grounds (4 gauge) and making sure ECU wires and sensors are routed away from ignition wires.

I had a custom tune done and it has been great. After all this I find the car much more enjoyable and find myself driving it more often than when it had the carb.

There are many who complain about the external fuel pump setups and often the fix is to use an in-tank efi pump set-up. I would suggest going this route from the start.

[FrankieT/A]

I have the FITech 1200 Power Adder. It has taken some time to dial it in, a little frustrating at first, but now works great. Going on different forums and seeing issues that other people have had, I was able to make adjustments that made all the difference in the world and has made the driving experience great. Starts with a bliff of the key, no gas smell in my garage, idles great even with the A/C on, plus great gas mileage. Oh, and the throttle response is incredible! It runs my 455 with the Road Paver cam (.600 lift)like never before. However, I will be going LS so I will end up selling it because I won't have a need for it anymore.

[NeighborsComplaint]

I'm listening and taking notes RFI seems to be a recurring theme here and on other forums.

I am hoping to run my stock dual snorkel which is a lot of metal surrounding the throttle body. I saw on one forum where a guy had to shield his ECU from the distributor and stock air cleaner. He used aluminum foil for proof of concept and then fabricated an aluminum plate attached to the throttle body. It was a Ford (front mounted distributor) so I assume the ECU is in the front of throttle body.

Another recurring theme is that the supplied pump is not adequate and louder than the Holley Street pump I currently have and use only as a pusher for "spirited" driving.

Keep it coming. Waiting to hear some love from the FiTech guys.

[FrankieT/A]

The best way to handle the fuel pump is to change tanks with an internal fuel pump. Tanks Inc. makes a decent product, along with a Walbro pump. Do yourself a favor and bite the bullet. Inline pumps fail way too often. Definitely do not buy the the Command Center.

[ID67goat]

Have a friend with FiTech on stock type 400 and it was just plug and play, fired right up first time and started learning process. It has been a good unit for him.

I have a Sniper Stealth 4150, with decent size cam in a 461 which required some slight tuning for startup, and I also had some issues with EMI which I narrowed down to old spark plug wires. As soon as those 2 issues were addressed it runs great. The things I like the most is the throttle response and being able to connect the laptop and live tune using the Holley software (not sure if you can do this on all Sniper versions)

I 2nd the recommendation for Tanks Inc tank and use a return style regulator which makes for a way better setup in the long run.

[JLMounce]

From a hardware, mechanical and sensor standpoint the differences between the FiTech and Sniper are incredibly small. FiTech owns the patent on the onboard ecu TBI units so it’s likely that Holley is paying a license and that they are functionally identical as a result.

Both systems work equally well and suffer from the same issues. In order to “self-tune” they have a wide learn variance that can cause some weird things to happen. The most common of which is lean tip in.

90% of the issues either system have from a running perspective is typically related to an install issue or issues the car has that are masked by a carburetor that doesn’t care about electrical systems. Most commonly grounding issues and exhaust leaks are to blame.

The Sniper does have a leg up in the software department. It’s using a skimmed down version of the Holley HP software and its VE table is larger. That means less interpolation between break points. That said however, unless you’re breaking out the laptop and doing custom tuning, this aspect is pretty meaningless.

I have two FiTech’s. An early model 30001 that I’ve had installed on my Firebird since September of 2015. I’ve put about 25000 miles on it and it’s been highly reliable. The only issue I’ve had is a burned up main harness connector. That cost me $40 and about an hour to repair. The undersized main harness connector has been dealt with as of models created around 2017 and forward.

My wife’s Chevelle has a Go Street unit like the one you’re looking at. We installed hers in 2018 and like mine it’s been flawless everywhere. Not a single issue with it since install. I haven’t kept track of mileage but I’d guess she’s put about 8000 miles on her unit.

Bottom line in the units that they cross pollinate like the Go Street Go EFI 4 and the basic sniper units, you can’t really go wrong with either.

If I was planning on doing timing control I’d go Sniper simply because with their hyper spark distributor and integrated product line it’s just a lot easier.

There’s models on both companies ends that would steer me in either direction. High hp streetable stuff the FiTech PA 1200 would be my go to. High HP race, the super sniper has my bet.

[Formula8]

I have a sniper stealth and have put only about 100 miles on it but so far, it has been flawless. In my view, the real issue with these systems is how they are marketed as a simple "4 wire install". That creates the impression for the installer that they all they need to do is locate the right wires, splice in and go. I am sure some get away with that but for others.......not so much.

After spending months researching the various forums, I have two recommendations if you don't want issues:

1) Get your car as close to a new fuel injected car as possible before even starting. What I mean is new cars do not have things like SI alternators that emit a noisy output and spew RFI all over your engine compartment. New cars have electrical systems with relays to completely isolate sensitive electronic computers from noisy electrical devices like cooling fans, alternators and fuel pumps. Computers are wired directly to the battery. Sensor wires are RFI shielded. Ignition wires are not running all over the engine. They don't have PCV valves that operate rather randomly. New cars do not have inline external fuel pumps nor do they have oil filled ignition coils. They sure as heck don't have 50 year old wiring harnesses that have been spliced together by the previous three owners.

2) Relative to Holley, they provide you with a "quick start" guide. It's only about 16 pages and goes along with their simple hook up marketing. Go to the Holley site and download the actual 78 page instruction manual and plan to read it 2-3 times with a highlighter. Once your print it out, throw away the quick start guide.

Finally, if I had it all over to do again, I would skip over both the FiTech TBI and Sniper and get Holley's Terminator X. It has way more capabilities than either and as the computer mounts remotely, rather than on the engine, satisfying my first tip as new cars do not mount their computer directly to the engine either. Every time I look, the price on it goes up a bit but the cost difference is rather nominal in the big context of an entire package that reliably works. We have several Holley dealers on the forum with competitive pricing including Paul K but for more info, you can check with EFI Pros as well: https://www.efisystempro.com/termina...1001-thru-1016

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by Formula8

I have a sniper stealth and have put only a couple of miles on it but so far, it has been flawless. In my view, the real issue with these systems is how they are marketed as a simple "4 wire install". That creates the impression for the installer that they all they need to do is locate the right wires, splice in and go. I am sure some get away with that but for others.......not so much.

After spending months researching the various forums, I have two recommendations if you don't want issues:

1) Get your car as close to a new fuel injected car as possible before even starting. What I mean is new cars do not have things like alternators that emit a noisy output and spew RFI all over your engine compartment. New cars have electrical systems with relays to completely isolate sensitive electronic computers from noisy electrical connections. Computers are wired directly to the battery. Sensor wires are RFI shielded. Ignition wires are not running all over the engine. They don't have PCV valves that operate rather randomly. New cars do not have inline external fuel pumps nor do they have oil filled ignition coils. They sure as heck don't have 50 year old wiring harnesses that have been spliced together by the previous three owners.

2) Relative to Holley, they provide you with a "quick start" guide. It's only about 16 pages and goes along with their simple hook up marketing. Go to the Holley site and download the actual 78 page instruction manual and plan to read it 2-3 times with a highlighter. Once your print it out, throw away the quick start guide.

Finally, if I had it all over to do again, I would skip over both the FiTech and Sniper and get Holley's Terminator X. It has way more capabilities than either and as the computer mounts remotely, rather than on the engine, satisfies my first tip as new cars do not mount their computer directly to the engine. Every time I look, the price on it goes up a bit but the cost difference is rather nominal in the big context of an entire package that reliably works. We have several Holley dealers on the forum with competitive pricing including Paul K but for more info, you can check with EFI Pros as well: https://www.efisystempro.com/termina...1001-thru-1016

I pretty much agree with this. I really love my FiTech's and they are two of the best modifications I've done to my car and the wife's.

However if I was doing it all over again, I'd go straight to full featured port injection system. The cost over the stand-alone isn't as great as you'd think, but there is some additional brain work and process to follow. I'd personally go with something like a Haltech 950.

The point about making your car an EFI ready car is pretty big. I never recommend the fuel surge tanks that hook into the mechanical pump and I never recommend in-line pumps. Those two fuel delivery systems will do nothing but keep your hand scratching your head and your car in the garage.

Go straight to an EFI ready tank like a Tanks Inc unit and put a fuel pump inside it. Get a genuine Walbro pump and it'll provide OEM level performance and reliability.

Definitely don't splice into the wiring harness. At minimum the unit itself needs to be triggered by a relay. If nothing else, this is almost a must. If you run an HEI, you can trigger the unit off the BATT terminal, but it's probably a 50/50 shot at working correctly or not.

One thing that is not mentioned in any literature I've ever seen on installs for FiTech or Sniper is that these systems will NOT run with an ignition system that is on a ballast resistor or is utilizing a resistance wire. They need to see a full 12v signal from the coil. So if you're still running points, plan on replacing the distributor.

[TransAm400]

I just got a new 455 running with Sniper EFI and Hyperspark dist/coil/cdi box. Initial start up and tuning was easy. Fighting RFI issues at operating temps now that I haven’t had a chance to chase down yet. Curious what you others that had issues are using for plug wires and plugs? I’m using a new set of MSD super conductor wires and NGK resistor plugs.

[chevymad]

3d option. I recently installed an Edelbrock Proflo 4 on my 87 formula w/chevy motor. It's sequential port injection and works awesome. Started right up after install, no problems so far. So much better then the quickfuel brawler I'd just put on before. I'd recommend the system to anyone, only thing I wish it did was have TCC lockup control.

[roger1]

I just had my '69 400 engine built by a machine shop and opted for a new Edelbrock ProFlo 4. It ran great on their dyno and made 425HP and 480 ft-lbs.

[62posbonny]

i'm running a pro flo 4 as well. it's on a 462 with 96 heads and a mild ultradyne 280/288 cam. initial setup is crazy simple and it fired right up and drove really well after only warming it up and adjusting the IAC. It does hit the specified AFR's really well, and right now I am still adjusting the AFR's and timing and continuing to find smoother and more responsive running. I am very happy with the system, though for the pickiest of us a Holley Terminator X sequential system would have vast advantages.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by TransAm400

I just got a new 455 running with Sniper EFI and Hyperspark dist/coil/cdi box. Initial start up and tuning was easy. Fighting RFI issues at operating temps now that I haven’t had a chance to chase down yet. Curious what you others that had issues are using for plug wires and plugs? I’m using a new set of MSD super conductor wires and NGK resistor plugs.

I'm using Moroso Blue Max wires and NGK resistor plugs but MSD SC wires are the most recommended.

What have you done in grounding department? I have 4 gauge ground cables: engine/frame, engine/body, battery/engine, battery/body - fighting RFI lead me to this and appears to have resolved the issue. Also make sure your ECU and sensor wires are away from ignition and alternator power wires.

[Formulajones]

I use Taylor wires with Autolite plugs on one, and MSD wires with NGK's are on the other.

Neither experience any RFI issues. In fact the car with the Taylor wires has to be at least 20 years old now, lol. This particular car also uses the factory ZL2 air cleaner setup that is about 19 inches in diameter and said to be a huge RFI contributor, but works fine on mine.

Both cars also have their original style alternators with external voltage regulators that are also said to scatter RFI, but again, both cars work flawlessly. I didn't even make a huge effort to keep the EFI wires away from the distributor or plug wires. In fact I couldn't do that on either car as the EFI wires come out of the back of the unit right into the distributor on both cars and run right past the distributor and the coil, and under the plug wires. Works fine.


I feel that having good grounds is imperative, and hooking the EFI directly to the battery as the instructions suggest is important. Most of the problems I've seen or read about are from sketchy installs or existing problems the car already had but was magnified with the EFI install.

[grivera]

There are many installer induced problems but omitting those, successful installs are hit or miss. Also, many who have successful installs don’t provide trouble free miles. My car already had new reproduction wire harnesses with all factory grounds intact with instructions followed very carefully and my first ECU took a crap within 30 minutes. It’s clear at the $1000 price tag the Sniper hardware and quality assurance are substandard. There are numerous reports on the FB tech/help forum of injector wiring disengaging and requiring zip ties to fix. Also it seems lack of EMI shielding of sensitive components is a big issue at this price point.

[i82much]

not what anyone asked, but i stopped having carburetor problems when i set them back to factory specs and properly adjusted my chokes. both my 505 gto and 396 k10 start easily and run well under all conditions. they are generally too rich but not enough to make me start screwing things up by playing with my carburetors again.

is the juice worth the squeeze here? seems like a lot of people are just trading one kind of trouble for another, and spending money in the process.

i considered EFI at one point but i think i will just leave my carburetors alone and drive my car!

just my thoughts, not trying to dissuade anyone!

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by i82much

not what anyone asked, but i stopped having carburetor problems when i set them back to factory specs and properly adjusted my chokes. both my 505 gto and 396 k10 start easily and run well under all conditions. they are generally too rich but not enough to make me start screwing things up by playing with my carburetors again.

is the juice worth the squeeze here? seems like a lot of people are just trading one kind of trouble for another, and spending money in the process.

i considered EFI at one point but i think i will just leave my carburetors alone and drive my car!

just my thoughts, not trying to dissuade anyone!

The short answer is that it depends.

For me, it was quite literally the best thing I ever did to the car. I fought vapor lock issues with carbs in the summer to the point that I could take a quick trip around the block and that was it. Not even worth the expense of the registration and I honestly considered selling the car.

I went from putting maybe 100 miles on my bird a year to well over 5000 miles. I could daily drive this car if I really wanted to. Part of the problem is the increased altitude where I live. Modern fuel has a lower boiling point to begin with and it lowers further as altitude increases. At 4500 ft current fuels have a boiling point around 175 degrees or so. A huge block of iron in a small engine bay like an F-body that runs 180-190 degrees is going to eventually boil the fuel in the bowl.

On the eastern slope here in Colorado, we also get pretty crazy weather extremes and it only takes an hour drive-time west to go from about 4500 ft to near 8000 ft. In the summer we're talking density altitudes that range from about 6000 ft to as much as 15000 ft. The EFI doesn't care. Because it's reading MAP, it adjust seamlessly on the fly.

If you drive your car in an area where you don't have to worry about a lot of variation in weather and altitude, you've got no issues with vapor lock etc. Then yeah in your situation it's probably not making a big difference. The EFI system won't make more absolute power than a well dialed in carb.