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#21
03-09-2023, 12:04 PM
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Just wanted to say thank you. After reading this post, I checked which one I supplied my engine builder with and it was the wrong one, so I've now ordered the Best type.
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69 Firebird 472, KRE 85cc, Victor, 850xp, TH400, TSP 9.5" 4800, 3.90 10 bolt, Viking DA rears, QA1 single fronts, 3558lbs. best to date 10.90 @123 |
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#22
03-18-2023, 09:41 AM
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Is it possible to install the Best Gasket rope seal without removing the crank?
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#23
03-19-2023, 07:30 AM
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this is the second time this week i have seen this question. In my opinion, it likely is possible as many have said they have done it. Also my opinion, is its so much work to get to that point, i would rather do a bit more work and pull the crank and seat the block portion of the seal wo the crank in the way.
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1969 carousel red firebird 455, richmond 5 speed 1964 540 gto 1971 lemans sport convertible 1972 Maverick under slow construction |
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#24
03-19-2023, 09:20 AM
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^^And you get to have a look at how the bearings are doing at the same time.
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#25
03-19-2023, 09:43 AM
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If people do get a rope seal installed with the block in the car and the crank still in then the upper half of the seal must be adding a huge amount of fiction to the crank because you are using the crank to form the seal into the block groove instead of using a big socket or a big enough diameter of steel pipe.
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I do stuff for reasons. |
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#26
03-21-2023, 06:32 PM
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I took the advice and pulled the crank (1st timer) to do it hopefully right the first time.
But,,, when I lifted the crank some of the rod bearings stuck to the crank unknowingly and then fell off so not sure which bearing is for which rod. Big deal or little deal? Do I need to replace them now? Car had about an hour breakin time on a stand before I bought it and I have put 13 passes on it. |
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#27
03-21-2023, 07:33 PM
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No problem.
Just make sure they go in the correct way. 
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
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#28
03-22-2023, 08:35 AM
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If you look at the bearings that got mixed carefully, they should have a break-in pattern on them now. It may take a little time, but if you study them carefully, you will be able to match them back up. Also, as mentioned, depending on the brand and series of rod bearings, they may have an upper and lower bearing shell. They will have an L, (lower) or a U, (upper), after the part number on the back of the shell. The upper and lower halves have a chamfer on one edge of the shell and not the other. Most aftermarket crankshafts use these bearings for clearance against the large fillet radius.
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#29
03-22-2023, 09:01 AM
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Concerning replacing the rope seal with the crankshaft in the engine. Yes it can be done and I have done it dozens of times. How does the repair do? Not the greatest IMO. When I worked at the Pontiac dealer as a tech it was a different time. Pontiac engines were well known as oil leakers as well as their cousin, the Oldsmoibile . Small oil leaks were considered "normal" just like a Harley Davidson or a Jaguar. I replaced 13 oil pan gaskets/rear main seals in 1 week at the dealership. Could do them in the car in 2-3 hours. Would take me all day now to do 1. The process was to form a new seal half in the cap first. Then carefully remove it and cut it into 1/2' sections. Then use a specially made brass punch formed from instructions in the factory service manual and gently mash the OLD rope seal into the block groove with this punch from both ends. Then insert the new 1/2" sections in the groove and mash therm in with the punch. You could generally mash 2-3 1/2" sections into the upper groove. Trim the ends with a razor. Then install a new rope seal half in the cap and put the thing back together. That was the "official Pontiac" method for replacing the rear main seal in the car. How did it work? For the time period, pretty decent. It would knock a big leak down to a few drips. That was considered good enough in those days. About 1/2 of them would be leak free. I wouldn't do one this way today unless there was a reason to not remove the engine and really do it correctly.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to mgarblik For This Useful Post: | ||
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#30
03-22-2023, 05:44 PM
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Thanks guys for all the thoughts, comments and advice. Crank is out and hopefully the seal will be back in and the bottom half back together next week!
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#31
03-23-2023, 12:14 AM
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Thanks for the historical perspective Mike!
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Anybody else on this planet campaign a M/T hemi Pontiac for eleven seasons? ... or has built a record breaking DOHC hemi four cylinder Pontiac? ... or has driven a couple laps of Nuerburgring with Tri-Power Pontiac power?(back in 1967) |
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#32
03-23-2023, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Eric
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"Everybody has a plan until they get punched in the mouth" noted philosopher Mike Tyson Life begins at the end of your comfort zone. “The mind, once stretched by a new idea, never returns to its original dimensions.” |
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#33
03-23-2023, 11:35 AM
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Sun Tuned and his dad made me a similar tool, Eric, many years ago.
Makes the job easier for sure. Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
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#34
03-23-2023, 02:10 PM
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Surprised no one has mentioned the old Chinese finger tool. Being a flat rate mechanic for years, that was how I did it. Had pretty good luck with it. You turn the crank as you pull it through and cut the ends. Came with a tool to screw into the old seal to pull it out.
No, I would not do my own motor that way!
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" Darksiders Rule "
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| The Following User Says Thank You to misterp266 For This Useful Post: | ||
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#35
03-23-2023, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
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#36
03-23-2023, 03:18 PM
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Since your motor has been run the rod bearings should have left a imprint of what is stamped on there back side in the rod cap or the rod big end if you look close.
This should at least help you to get the upper or lower bearings back where they where. A clear reading non smeared imprint is also a very good sign that you have the as needed bearing crush and your bearings are not moving around .
__________________
I do stuff for reasons. |
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#37
03-23-2023, 05:07 PM
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I saw one years ago that looked like it had a small cork screw on the end of a wire where you could pull the old seal out and push it around to pull a new one in.Never knew if it worked.Tom
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