[ChiefCrazyCanuck]

I am looking for some advice on shock selection for my 68 Firebird. It is way overdue for an upgrade. Car has run 9.6 at 138-139 with a 455 based stock block engine with some good pieces (800+ HP). 8.9 just playing with a 175 shot. Weighs 3600 with driver.

Car has the stock style front suspension setup; control arms, steering and all with a set of god-who-knows how old CE front shocks. The front springs seem to hold a decent ride height.

The rear has a split mono leaf cal track setup. Has a 9 inch in it with a set of equally dated single adjustment shocks in the rear. I think they are ranchos, or something like that. They are completely smoked.

Going to try and get one last hurrah out of the car with the 470 before I swap in my 535 (935HP). Also have a 507 aluminum build underway that eventually will make it in there. Goal with that engine is 1050. So a progression...

I have my eyes on a set of QA1 TD 505 double adjustable stocker star shocks for the front. Will probably upgrade the control arms too if that is advised. Are these shocks a good choice?

The old rears I will get pictures of, so that an informed decision can be made. They do not mount like the factory shocks.

Thanks for your time and consideration.

Travis.

[ChiefCrazyCanuck]

Pictures of car.

[chuckies76ta]

Wow, Beautiful car.

[chuckies76ta]

Hi Travis: Were running the QA1 double adjustable on front and back on Susan's 68 F/B. I just changed out the front Control arms to Global West. Doug at G/W was really helpful.
Tell us more about your car. Tire size, gearing, track times, 60 ft, rpm through traps, converter. You know all the good stuff.. LOL

[Scott65]

Nice ride. Worth a call to Viking Shocks for something good that won't break the bank. They have double adjustable shocks that can be re valved by the user if needed or desired. If budget is no concern call Mencer.

[grandville455]

Hands down Call Menscer at your power levels and et goal's Travis! Do it once and be done!

[ChiefCrazyCanuck]

Originally Posted by chuckies76ta

Hi Travis: Were running the QA1 double adjustable on front and back on Susan's 68 F/B. I just changed out the front Control arms to Global West. Doug at G/W was really helpful.
Tell us more about your car. Tire size, gearing, track times, 60 ft, rpm through traps, converter. You know all the good stuff.. LOL

Thanks Charles! I'll take your advice on the G/W control arms, as I had forgotten they make some really nice parts.

Car has MT 275 ET Pros on it. 3.75 gears. 6800 through the traps. I have a PTC 9" that has a flash of 5800, but have yet to run better than the PTC 10" with a 4600. Hopefully that will happen before it is all taken apart.

I have attached timeslips from late 2019, one on motor and one on 175 HP of help. These were with the 10" converter.

[ChiefCrazyCanuck]

Pictures of heads and cam specs

[ChiefCrazyCanuck]

The car has always been pretty good on the track, only issue was keeping the front down. Hence the request for opinions on options to really get the car perfect as it gets faster.

Late last season, the car sounded like a gang of squirrels was putting in work to the rear underside with mini baseball bats while moving. When I went to push the car down it would just bounce. I now know why!!

Turns out the rear shocks are not smoked, just the lower bushing is gone. Do any of you have suggestions for just replacing the upper and lower bushings?

Darby, I will reach out to Menscer when the time comes for complete suspension overhaul (this winter). I have a feeling it is going to be expensive.

[gman005]

I Use Viking with no issues.

[ChiefCrazyCanuck]

Originally Posted by ChiefCrazyCanuck

The car has always been pretty good on the track, only issue was keeping then front down. Hence the request for opinions on options to really get the car perfect as it gets faster.

Late last season, the car sounded like a gang of squirrels was putting in work to the rear underside with mini baseball bats while moving. When I went to push the car down it would just bounce. I now know why!!

Turns out the rear shocks are not smoked, just the lower bushing is gone. Do any of you have suggestions for just replacing the upper and lower bushings?

Darby, I will reach out to Menscer when the time comes for complete suspension overhaul (this winter). I have a feeling it is going to be expensive.

I have found the replacement bushings for these shocks. Energy Suspension 98107.

[chuckies76ta]

Originally Posted by ChiefCrazyCanuck

Thanks Charles! I'll take your advice on the G/W control arms, as I had forgotten they make some really nice parts.

Car has MT 275 ET Pros on it. 3.75 gears. 6800 through the traps. I have a PTC 9" that has a flash of 5800, but have yet to run better than the PTC 10" with a 4600. Hopefully that will happen before it is all taken apart.

I have attached timeslips from late 2019, one on motor and one on 175 HP of help. These were with the 10" converter.

Thanks for the info. Nice times. A little hard to see for an old guy.lol.

Looks like 9.50 @138 with 1.43 60ft.

9.29@148 with 1.33 60 ft.


I need to get me one of those PTC 9" Converters. To flash around 5600 rpm. Thx.

[R 70 Judge]

Originally Posted by ChiefCrazyCanuck

The car has always been pretty good on the track, only issue was keeping the front down. Hence the request for opinions on options to really get the car perfect as it gets faster.

Late last season, the car sounded like a gang of squirrels was putting in work to the rear underside with mini baseball bats while moving. When I went to push the car down it would just bounce. I now know why!!

Turns out the rear shocks are not smoked, just the lower bushing is gone. Do any of you have suggestions for just replacing the upper and lower bushings?

Darby, I will reach out to Menscer when the time comes for complete suspension overhaul (this winter). I have a feeling it is going to be expensive.

Do you plan on adding an anti-roll bar?

My 70 is currently in for suspension updates. It’s definitely expensive If you get the right mix of parts these leaf spring cars really work.

For the rear I’m using Calvert split-mono leaf springs, Funkhouser HD low profile bars, Funkhouser anti-roll bar, Funkhouser full bearing sliders, Funkhouser shock relocation kit, and longer than stock Viking Crusader double adjustable shocks (longer shocks give more travel and adjustment as a perk of the relocation kit).

[ChiefCrazyCanuck]

Originally Posted by R 70 Judge

Do you plan on adding an anti-roll bar?

My 70 is currently in for suspension updates. It’s definitely expensive If you get the right mix of parts these leaf spring cars really work.

For the rear I’m using Calvert split-mono leaf springs, Funkhouser HD low profile bars, Funkhouser anti-roll bar, Funkhouser full bearing sliders, Funkhouser shock relocation kit, and longer than stock Viking Crusader double adjustable shocks (longer shocks give more travel and adjustment as a perk of the relocation kit).

Sounds like a pretty sweet setup! Thanks for the ideas.

[ChiefCrazyCanuck]

Originally Posted by chuckies76ta

Thanks for the info. Nice times. A little hard to see for an old guy.lol.

Looks like 9.50 @138 with 1.43 60ft.

9.29@148 with 1.33 60 ft.


I need to get me one of those PTC 9" Converters. To flash around 5600 rpm. Thx.

Yeah, it is a little hard to read. Those passes were the same day, car B32

Motor - 9.64 @ 138.8 60 ft. 1.40
N2O - 8.98 @ 149.8 60 ft. 1.32

[aaronman]

https://competitivesuspension.com/

Reach out to Dave Connolly.

[younggto]

Keep in mind the shock body size and the LCAs; some shock bodies require different LCAs or modification of them.

[Scott Stoneburg]

If the budget allows I would definetly go with double adjustable. I didn't and wish I would have.

[Probird]

I use Afco double adjustable fronts and double adjustable rears with the Global West upper and lower a-arms. Very adjustable and work great